Burned up my brakes at the track, now what?

Shotta · 07-10-2020, 02:51 PM

Its really easy to swap pads out for track days, thats what I do. 1 set for the streets and one set for the occasional track days.

thekinn · 07-10-2020, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shotta

Its really easy to swap pads out for track days, thats what I do. 1 set for the streets and one set for the occasional track days.

The issue with that is the other pad material left on the rotor when you switch. I've had issues where my pads and rotors kind of looked like the OPs (not quite that bad) when switching from street to race without a clean rotor.

One way to clean the street pad off is to just run the race pads on the street.. it basically acts like a lathe when cold and will do a pretty good job after a 100 or so miles of street driving. Then you are ready to bed in the race pads for optimal performance.

I've also heard of Carbotech's Bobcats. Supposed to be a street pad used along with XP series race pads and I guess due to some similarity in material avoids the steps listed above.

Jhill · 07-11-2020, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thekinn

The issue with that is the other pad material left on the rotor when you switch. I've had issues where my pads and rotors kind of looked like the OPs (not quite that bad) when switching from street to race without a clean rotor.

One way to clean the street pad off is to just run the race pads on the street.. it basically acts like a lathe when cold and will do a pretty good job after a 100 or so miles of street driving. Then you are ready to bed in the race pads for optimal performance.

I've also heard of Carbotech's Bobcats. Supposed to be a street pad used along with XP series race pads and I guess due to some similarity in material avoids the steps listed above.

This is what I’m doing or will be next track day. I was switching between xp10/8 and stock and then found the compounds to not really play well together so now I have the 1521 for street but I haven’t switched back to xp10/8 since I haven’t had a track day since. Now I need rotors too cause I got some shimmy goin on, feels like the rear but I want 2 piece all 4 corners so I’ll run with it till I can replace em all.

bpchaos · 07-13-2020, 03:29 AM

I switched between XP10/8s and Stoptech Sports (309s) for a time. Oh man, they did not like each other. I had to get my rotors turned, and might get 1521s for the next street set to (hopefully) avoid redoing my rotors every time I go to the track.

cthorson910 · 07-13-2020, 11:41 AM

My setup is a lot like Rusty's
Pads- Carbotech 10/8 combo
Rotors- Racing Brake
Fluid - Brembo HTC-64
Ducting- stillen kit w/2" for now, but will be upgrading to 3" ducts in the near future.

I don't have the Ti shims for the pads though, but this setup is pretty solid. I've yet to experience brake fade at all in 20-25min sessions at Laguna Seca.

ZoomZ · 07-13-2020, 01:24 PM

When we refer to Racing Brake, is this the place?: https://racingbrake.com/

zz

JARblue · 07-13-2020, 01:36 PM

Yes

JARblue · 07-13-2020, 01:48 PM

https://racingbrake.com/standard-iro...san/nis-irk-02

alanyluan · 07-13-2020, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thekinn

The issue with that is the other pad material left on the rotor when you switch. I've had issues where my pads and rotors kind of looked like the OPs (not quite that bad) when switching from street to race without a clean rotor.

One way to clean the street pad off is to just run the race pads on the street.. it basically acts like a lathe when cold and will do a pretty good job after a 100 or so miles of street driving. Then you are ready to bed in the race pads for optimal performance.

Sorry to hi-jack, but if tracking on XP10 and occasional street driving, does the cold temp lathe effect remove that initial transfer layer? I guess what I've been wondering is whether I need to re-bed the pads after stints of short street driving and before track days? Thanks!

Spooler · 07-13-2020, 04:12 PM

I just run track pads all the time. The only time you have to be very careful is on the interstate when it is cold and raining. Got to remember to press the brakes from time to time with long instances of no brakes at all.

Rusty · 07-14-2020, 12:17 AM

In the last 2 weeks. I've driven from south of Pittsburgh, to Grand Rapids, to Denver, to Bloomfield NM with my set-up. That's over 2,500 miles. The only issue is coming to a stop. They do make noise. In the rain. They do feel different. But will still put your eyeballs in the windshield.

thekinn · 07-14-2020, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alanyluan

Sorry to hi-jack, but if tracking on XP10 and occasional street driving, does the cold temp lathe effect remove that initial transfer layer? I guess what I've been wondering is whether I need to re-bed the pads after stints of short street driving and before track days? Thanks!

Probably not. I usually consider my first session of the track day to be the bed-in/test. More cognizant of how they are performing.. but they are usually on point after a couple laps (after the initial 'warm-up' lap). At worst, you'll need to end the first session a little early for fade..
I'd say to give it a shot without the added process of pre-track bed-in once and see how it works for you.

bigaudiofanat · 07-14-2020, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91

That's a wasted pad, so much material left.

That's 110% used up pad.

Anyway my personal opinion is as such.
The car has excellent brakes (sport) and needs little little more then good pads and fluid to make it exceptional. Expensive two piece rotors are will not provide any real benefit and will cause heat problems sooner then a simple one piece. Not to mention it will eat a hole in your wallet sooner.
What I use is simple blanks, I can throw 3-4 away for the cost of a single replacement for a two piece. I use "Frozen Rotors" blanks because I notices a large amount of surface crack on regular. It costs about 110 a rotor with the "fr2015" 15% discount code which is less then half the cheapest 2 piece rebuild, not including the initial investment. Two piece rotors do have their place, in a striped out race car gunning for a prize and sponsors. XP10/8 are great and I use rbf600 but there are many good fluids out there, test and change your fluid reguarly.

THIS

OptionZero · 07-14-2020, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91

That's a wasted pad, so much material left.

That's 110% used up pad.

Anyway my personal opinion is as such.
The car has excellent brakes (sport) and needs little little more then good pads and fluid to make it exceptional. Expensive two piece rotors are will not provide any real benefit and will cause heat problems sooner then a simple one piece. Not to mention it will eat a hole in your wallet sooner.
What I use is simple blanks, I can throw 3-4 away for the cost of a single replacement for a two piece. I use "Frozen Rotors" blanks because I notices a large amount of surface crack on regular. It costs about 110 a rotor with the "fr2015" 15% discount code which is less then half the cheapest 2 piece rebuild, not including the initial investment. Two piece rotors do have their place, in a striped out race car gunning for a prize and sponsors. XP10/8 are great and I use rbf600 but there are many good fluids out there, test and change your fluid reguarly.

I will defer to those with more track experience than I, and i see your point generally that a blank 1 pc has more mass and therefore more thermal capacity than a 2 pc . .

but don't all our current 2 pc options also have superior internal venting (for lack of a better term) to funnel air through the inside and therefore cool better on track?

is it your experience that the venting doesn't matter as much as just having more mass?

Rusty · 07-14-2020, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero

I will defer to those with more track experience than I, and i see your point generally that a blank 1 pc has more mass and therefore more thermal capacity than a 2 pc . .

but don't all our current 2 pc options also have superior internal venting (for lack of a better term) to funnel air through the inside and therefore cool better on track?

is it your experience that the venting doesn't matter as much as just having more mass?

There is a couple of things that go in a rotor. Internal cooling, what type of cast iron, how it's cast, hardness of the cast iron. Some rotors are a powder that is put into a mold and cooked until it's molten. Then left to cool.

07-10-2020, 02:51 PM	#16 (permalink)
Shotta Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Niagara Posts: 316 Drives: 2010 370z black M6 Rep Power: 13	Its really easy to swap pads out for track days, thats what I do. 1 set for the streets and one set for the occasional track days. Sharad909 likes this. __________________ 6MT - designed for perfectionists 7AT - designed for enthusiasts

07-13-2020, 11:41 AM	#20 (permalink)
cthorson910 Base Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: CA Posts: 17 Drives: 2013 370z sport Rep Power: 8	My setup is a lot like Rusty's Pads- Carbotech 10/8 combo Rotors- Racing Brake Fluid - Brembo HTC-64 Ducting- stillen kit w/2" for now, but will be upgrading to 3" ducts in the near future. I don't have the Ti shims for the pads though, but this setup is pretty solid. I've yet to experience brake fade at all in 20-25min sessions at Laguna Seca. Rusty likes this.

07-13-2020, 01:24 PM	#21 (permalink)
ZoomZ Track Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 760 Drives: 17' 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 40617	When we refer to Racing Brake, is this the place?: https://racingbrake.com/ zz cv129, Rusty and cthorson910 like this.

07-13-2020, 01:36 PM	#22 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Yes cv129 and ZoomZ like this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

07-13-2020, 01:48 PM	#23 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	https://racingbrake.com/standard-iro...san/nis-irk-02 ZoomZ likes this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

07-13-2020, 03:29 AM	#19 (permalink)
bpchaos Base Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 74 Drives: G37S (370z+ seats) Rep Power: 3364	I switched between XP10/8s and Stoptech Sports (309s) for a time. Oh man, they did not like each other. I had to get my rotors turned, and might get 1521s for the next street set to (hopefully) avoid redoing my rotors every time I go to the track.

07-13-2020, 04:12 PM	#25 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,800 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	I just run track pads all the time. The only time you have to be very careful is on the interstate when it is cold and raining. Got to remember to press the brakes from time to time with long instances of no brakes at all. JARblue and Rusty like this.

07-14-2020, 12:17 AM	#26 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,184 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	In the last 2 weeks. I've driven from south of Pittsburgh, to Grand Rapids, to Denver, to Bloomfield NM with my set-up. That's over 2,500 miles. The only issue is coming to a stop. They do make noise. In the rain. They do feel different. But will still put your eyeballs in the windshield. JARblue likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

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