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True Rear vs. Divorced spring (causes damage?)
So next week i'm thinking of picking up a set of True rear coilovers. HKS HIPERMAX IV GT to be exact. But yesterday at the dinner table my dad made an interesting point. The Z comes standard with a divorced spring/shock setup in the rear, so changing it to true rear coils may be bad. reason it may be bad is cause the car wasn't designed to have all the weight and load on that part of the car. Again he just said it as a thought and it did get me thinking could he be right? Only down side to not going with a true rear setup would be lack of camber adjust ability so that might suck. lets hear some of your thoughts!
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To your point about camber, you will need camber arms out back regardless of true type or divorced type. |
You can go with an OEM-style and get camber adjustment via aftermarket parts or go with a true-style setup and get camber adjustment via aftermarket parts. The stock mounting points are fine for true-style setups as probably 50% of us have them and I've yet to see a BMW-style failure (I've been on true-style for appx 5 years now). You'll be fine either way.
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This matter has been discussed before. There is no issues with switching from the stock divorced rear suspension shock/spring set up to a true type coilover. Guys have been running true type coils hard on the track for years without any issues. This isn't a BMW shock tower...
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To put all the answers in one place:
1) Durability In THEORY, yes, a true coilover setup will put "more" stress on the strut towers; however, in reality this has not actually shown to be a significant enough difference to worry about. People track their cars with true coilover setups, which is a far harsher condition than bumming around down, without experiencing failure. More to the point, if you were to run stiff enough suspension with stressful enough conditions to actually need to worry about it . . . you'd be a racing car with no DD duties and you'd have custom fabbed reinforcements in that area. Bottom line, unless you're shooting for competitive laptimes, don't its not a problem 2) Spring Rate Changing from a divorced to true style DOES change the geometry of the rear suspension and you should not run the same rates in a true style as in a divorced style. Refer to this thread: http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...ilovers-4.html Specifically Quote:
3) Alignment adjustment There are THREE arms you need for the rear for full adjustment: - a camber arm. SPL makes two versions, the "billet" style is just a newer design https://www.splparts.com/products/re...-370z-g37.html or https://www.splparts.com/products/re...t-version.html - a traction arm https://www.splparts.com/products/re...-370z-g37.html - a midlink OR toe arm If you have a divorced setup, get this: https://www.splparts.com/products/re...-370z-g37.html ***NOTE: The SPL midlink requires a 65mm diameter spring. Check with your coilover provider to see what diameter their rear springs are. Most good places offer Swift springs as an upgrade; Swift makes a spring with the correct 65 diameter that fits perfectly. The STOCK spring bucket is like 4.5 inches and way, WAY wider - it will not fit on the SPL bucket.*** if you have a true setup, get EITHER: https://www.splparts.com/products/re...-370z-g37.html or https://www.splparts.com/products/re...t-version.html Again, the billet version is just a newer design NOTE: You will also need to get an Eccentric Lockout kit:https://www.splparts.com/products/ec...-370z-g37.html the STOCK adjustment points in the rear are eccentric bolts that may slip over time. These remove that movement, so adjustment is made purely on the arms themselves, which are more stable Optional Tie Rod Ends with bumpster adjustment. https://www.splparts.com/products/bu...5-z34-q50.html Also, they make swaybar end links which you don't NEED either |
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