I’ve researched everywhere on this site, the fsm and even g37 and it seems nobody knows the oem torque spec for the 4 17mm and 4 14mm bolts that hold
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12-21-2019, 05:08 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Torque specs for Caliper halves bolts
I’ve researched everywhere on this site, the fsm and even g37 and it seems nobody knows the oem torque spec for the 4 17mm and 4 14mm bolts that hold the front and rear calipers together. So my question is for those of you that have rebuilt the calipers before what did you torque it too so it wouldn’t leak?
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12-21-2019, 06:53 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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If you know the size (you already have that) and grade of the bolts, you can look it up in torque charts on the 'Net.
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12-21-2019, 07:26 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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I looked up how to tell the bolt grade and it doesn’t have any marking on the top so I assume it’s a grade 2? But when I went to look up the torque specs for a 17mm grade 2 bolt I was very confused which one to look at to say the least lol
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12-21-2019, 09:15 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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I'd try taking one of the bolts to a hardware store or machine shop to get it IDed.
Edit: My guess is that it is Grade 5. But I'm no expert. If it's zinc-plated, it's probably Grade 2. Edit: Discovered that metric bolts use a different rating system that I am not familiar with. You need to get help from someone else.
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12-22-2019, 12:44 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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The specs are not in the manual anywhere. What I did was to measure the diameter of the bolt shaft. Not what wrench will fit the head.
Here's a list of metric bolt torques and how to find out which grade. Nissan doesn't always mark their bolt head as for grade. https://www.swtc.edu/Ag_Power/diesel...e%20values.pdf
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12-22-2019, 04:59 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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This is information is not hard to find, as posted in response to your OP. It has been also been discussed on this forum before...
Caliper bolts
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12-22-2019, 08:41 PM | #7 (permalink) | |
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12-22-2019, 08:45 PM | #8 (permalink) | |
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12-23-2019, 12:42 AM | #9 (permalink) | |
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12-23-2019, 03:03 AM | #10 (permalink) | |
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12-23-2019, 08:04 AM | #11 (permalink) | |
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If you get the paste on your fingers. GOOD LUCK on getting it off. The stone to get is one of those knife sharping stones that is about 2" wide and about 6" long. Spray it and the half with WD40. And work back and forth. Keeping everything wet. Any high spots in the metal will look like bright shiny areas. If you have any. Keep stoning. But be careful on the edges. You don't want to round off the edges. Keep the stone flat at all times. It's an art. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00264101
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12-23-2019, 08:14 AM | #12 (permalink) | |
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12-23-2019, 08:16 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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You may have to stone, clean, bolt together, stone, clean, bolt together a couple of times. On mine, I got about 75% contact all over. Around the o-ring hole, It was 100%.
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12-23-2019, 09:24 AM | #14 (permalink) |
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If you don't like the idea of using a whet rock, get a large, flat plate (metal works best) and lay some wet/dry sandpaper on it. Place caliper half on sandpaper and go to town. Use plenty of water/oil/etc.
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12-23-2019, 11:19 AM | #15 (permalink) |
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Use a very fine sandpaper. Start off with 800 grit. Glass plate is the best.
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