What will it take to get Akebono up to par
 

After reading of the disaster that was Car and Drivers evaluation of the Nismo Z I've been looking in to some upgrades. Now it seems to me that the only possible upgrades are Pads, Shims, Fluid, SS lines, Venting and Rotors. Out of those 6 only Pads, SS Lines, and fluid are readily available. I'm not counting 1-piece rotors, and any venting will likely be home-made. Also some sort of high temp dust boots or out and out removal of the dust boots is probably necessary.

My question is even with all 6 (7) will the Akebonos ever be good enough? How much better will Pads and Fluid make things? I don't want to do SS lines because, if memory serves, SCCA forbids them on newer cars.

Many people, me included, have tracked the 370Z with high temp pads and fluid without issues. In fact the 370Z brakes felt better than my old STi Brembos did on track. Pads and fluid should be all you need to hit the track safely. That being said, I will probably get titanium shims when they become available to help keep the calipers and everything else from the heat of the rotors/pads.

Pad/Fluid upgrade. Cheap fix.

Like everyone else said, pads and fluid. $350 and youre done.

Awesome. Thats the kind of affirmation I was looking for. Thanks Guys.

I was considering the NISMO pads for continuity sake but at the price I can't justify it. I'm going with Motul 600 and Hawk HPS unless anyone can point towards superior products.

For the track, I would go with a higher temp pad than the HPS. Some guys had luck with HP+ pads but I personally would go even higher temp rating that that.

IF (big if at this point) my car see's the track it will only be briefly; maybe 1 or 2 HPDEs or something. Hawk HPS is a good compromise I think, and for my street driving style it's in the right range of compounds. Along down the line after I have another DD I'll go nuts with the Nismo and really start focusing on the track. At that point I'll probably switch to carbotechs.

JoeyD, get the HP+. You will thank me and hate me later.

For lighter track works, pads are the biggest problem. Fix that, then go for SS lines and fluid. Better rotors are a plus and there are more 2-piece options hitting the market in the next few months.

For more serious track work or to improve pedal feel and modulation, a proper BBK would be necessary. Those calipers have a limit.

Chris

Great info guys. Thanks so much.

RCZ I understand the benefits of the HP+ over HPS, but do you mind telling me why I'll hate you? What is the real-world downside? And BTW I took your advice and mounted all 4 RE-11s instead of just the rear two.

A BBK is probably in my (distant) future. I'm leaning towards AP Racing or the Brembo Caliper-only upgrade. IMHO the ideal setup would allow me to run AP Racing up front and swith the 4pot Akebono caliper from the front to the rear. The swap should just be a matter of producing the right bracket just like all the BBKs use.

I have yet to maximize the Sport Brakes as is,..and the way it is now is that the feel is way better than my Subaru Legacy GT with front Brembos (04 STI) and Racing Brake rotor and extended caliper setup for more rear bias...

Pads, SS lines and maybe 2 piece rotors would most likely be enough for me..
Stillen sale on AP brakes that ends was really a good deal tho as free rear rotors and pads come along with them, but shipping to Hawaii costs too much...

Hey no problem! You will hate me because they squeal and dust. If you're willing to put up with a little (read: lot of) squealing and you wash the car often, then go with the HP+. I just remember they would get annoying now and then when I was driving my car around the city...people stare at you. I say, give them a shot, if you don't like them, the absolute worst that can happen is you sell them on the boards. Someone will buy them...

Also, I'm glad you took the advice to mount the other 2 tires. Hope it feels better now!

The HP+ failed me, but if you go easy on them they might survive. Definitely Carbotech for the track if you want to be safe and confident.

i wore a set of HP+ down to the backing plates in one day on a brake intensive track. I'm guessing the HPS would be even worse. probably like the stock ones. My first track outing, I had HP+ in front and stock in the rear and the rears wore to the backing plate in one 20 minute session.

Don't waste your time with anything less than HP+, and even that is a waste if you are experienced.

HP+ is a hardcore street pad, not a race pad. From what I understood, he didnt want race pads, thats why I recommended a street pad.

Pads, fluid, lines, and proper braking techniques on the track.

We have very good brakes from the factory. Our brakes are capable of stopping our car
from 60 mph in 108'ish feet. But all factory brakes have inherent weaknesses. In my opinion, do the above four and you should be set.

Pads, Fluid and if you like Ducting.

still, I think I would go with carbotech bobcat's instead for a street pad with light track use. My buddy uses them on his G37 without issues.

I had the HP+ on my modified G35 and yes they did squeal alot on slow braking, for example, when stopping for a light. My solution was to coast to the light and brake with medium pressure. This provided minimum squeal and usually scared the passengers from waiting to brake so long. :p

As for brake dust ...... it's the price for high performance brake pads. Yes there was a extreme amount of dust! I plan upgrading the brake lines, brake fluid and HP+ brake pads. When the one piece stock rotors are done and beyond salvage, I'll replace them with a good 2-piece rotors.

I autocross at least twice a month, in the summer, and can't beat the HP+ for all around street/autocross brake pad performance. For the money, the average street/autocross user will be impressed, except for the brake dust.

If I was to do high speed track racing, my recommendations would be different and probably suggest a different pad and BBk kit. More than likely, would have a race and street pad set and swap them out before each track day.

Interesting. I tried them for auto-x but the grabby nature cause it to upset the dynamic brake control system if you jabbed the brake pedal.

I agree... maybe down the line that would be nice to add a bracket so we can reuse our 4 pot fronts for the rears... How difficult is the braket going to be to make?

Sorry, but even if you could physically mount the front caliper on the rear (and deal with the difference in rotor thickness), the piston sizing would knock the brake system WAY out of balance. And the pedal would get very soft without a larger master cylinder. It's a big can of worms with no possible outcome that would make it worth the time/money/effort.

Chris