I too have dealt with the troublesome brake shutter for the past 2 to 3 years. I was counseled last year to switch pads from Carbotech XP 10 to Hawk
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11-12-2019, 07:41 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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I too have dealt with the troublesome brake shutter for the past 2 to 3 years.
I was counseled last year to switch pads from Carbotech XP 10 to Hawk DTC60. And I also added the 2" Stillen Brake Ducting. So far so good. I am currently running NAPA Blanks. A key to my success has been to ensure I test Runout on car often....to where I have taken back to NAPA a Front Rotor and a Rear Rotor. In short: make sure that your new rotors do not have Runout during installation....and check with each pad change. I also want to upgrade to 2-piece....so I will listen in on the recommendations here about Z1 vs the others.
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11-13-2019, 07:34 AM | #17 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Here's my advice, don't mean to sound mean if it comes off that way, I do want you to make the best choice. Do you know why people use 2 pc rotors over 1 pc? Just because others are doing it doesn't mean it's the best for you. The main job of the rotor is to absorb heat and radiate that heat to the air. The primary benefit of of 2 pc designs is not improved fade or braking performance directly. 2pc are for weight savings, less prone to cracking with floating design, and cost savings (though I really don't see that). Due the their lower weight they heat up faster and reach higher peak temps and need more cooling then a heavier rotor, so you'd actually be making your assumed problem even worse. If indeed overheating is your issue more cooling and/or a big brake kit would be the answer to these issues. Personally I use up a set of front pads in 2 days or 8-10 25min sessions or 150miles. I use XP10/8 with Frozen Rotors blanks and experience no real issues in the advanced group with NASA. Rotors last usually 8 days or so. |
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12-09-2019, 09:29 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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Not trying to revive a dead thread but nobody recommended cooling ducts, or did i miss that. Would cooling the rotors help with the shuddering? I'm assuming that your warping the rotors since its what i'm doing basically after every track weekend. I have been using OEM blanks and have just been getting them turned twice before i toss them for good
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12-10-2019, 03:25 PM | #19 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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12-11-2019, 06:52 PM | #20 (permalink) |
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the issue with cooling ducts is not performance; they're totally useful for track cars - its availability for different bumpers
for the 09-13 stock bumper, Stillen has you covered with an easy bolt on kit The same kit also has optional parts to work for their own Stillen bumper (but it fits like ****) for the 09-14 Nismo bumper, Nismo makes ones that require cutting but otherwise has the right contours to bolt up after u make the right opening. This design has been copied by Finite Element and Synergy composites as cheaper options All other aftermarket bumpers and the 2015+ Nismo require custom work, like buying a universal duct and likely adapting the Stillen hose and backing plate kit
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12-11-2019, 07:35 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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The Stillen kit is 2" hose. If you want to go with a bigger hose. You are on your own.
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浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html Last edited by Rusty; 12-14-2019 at 05:20 PM. |
12-14-2019, 03:11 PM | #22 (permalink) |
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Is stillen 2 inch or 2.5 inch hose? Not on their website
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12-14-2019, 05:21 PM | #24 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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12-14-2019, 08:00 PM | #26 (permalink) |
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I was double checking since I thought I read elsewhere it was 2.5
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12-14-2019, 09:24 PM | #27 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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I have the Stillen kit. Last winter. I went to a 3" hose.
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12-14-2019, 09:24 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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Me too!
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