As the subject says. I was bleeding my brakes and overdid it tightening the bleeder screws. It stripped out and was leaking from both the bleeder hole and threads. I
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07-27-2019, 08:48 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Stripped caliper bleed hole
As the subject says. I was bleeding my brakes and overdid it tightening the bleeder screws. It stripped out and was leaking from both the bleeder hole and threads. I wasn't home so I ended up tapping it out to 7/16 and just sticking a rusty bolt in there with some Teflon tape. I got out most (not all) of the shavings from the tap and topped off the bleed hole with fluid before closing it up. It worked better than I expected.
Now... Do I have to buy a new caliper, or should I be able to just get a 7/16 bleeder screw now that I've tapped this hole? I know I did not bottom out the tap on the caliper hole seat, so that interface should be in tact. I'd rather not buy a new caliper and have it powder coated if I don't have to, but I think I know how this willl go. |
07-27-2019, 09:18 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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07-27-2019, 09:42 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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You want me to fix it for you? It's repair kits for stripped out bleed holes. 2 ways of doing it. Heli-coil or new seat and bleeder screw. I've done it both ways.
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07-27-2019, 11:00 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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I don't know, since you already drilled it.
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07-28-2019, 07:34 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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I haven't done this specific job but have done similar jobs as an industrial maintenance person. If you did the temporary repair job in situ, you probably have metal shavings and PTFE tape in the system. Remove the caliper, disassemble, clean caliper and flush fluid, re-tap hole if needed, re-assemble with new bleeder and without PTFE tape.
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07-28-2019, 01:45 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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I absolutely have some shavings from the tap and probably some tape as well. It sounds like the consensus is that our calipers have enough metal around the bleed screw to make this a viable solution (given that at least Rusty has done it)
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07-28-2019, 02:16 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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This is my current situation in case anyone is wondering
The threads on the rusty bolt are wet because it was failing to hold pressure before I put the Teflon tape on it. It sealed perfectly after that, but I did not take a picture. On a side note... Those streams of brake fluid sat on the caliper for a day and wiped off the powder coat immediately with Dawn and water. It didn't etch/eat the powder coat like some people say it does to paint, so I'm happy about that Last edited by dts3; 07-28-2019 at 03:27 PM. |
07-29-2019, 03:50 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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just replace it. I couldn't find torque specs for the caliper halves.
https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...81_796468_5913
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07-29-2019, 04:17 AM | #11 (permalink) | |
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07-29-2019, 08:56 AM | #12 (permalink) | |
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07-29-2019, 12:21 PM | #13 (permalink) | |
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07-29-2019, 05:11 PM | #15 (permalink) | |
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The torque values are based on dry and wet threads. The torque values for the caliper bolts ain't that high. I forgot what I torqued mine too. I have it written down someplace, but where? You know what the bolt diameter is?
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