Stripped caliper bleed hole
 

As the subject says. I was bleeding my brakes and overdid it tightening the bleeder screws. It stripped out and was leaking from both the bleeder hole and threads. I wasn't home so I ended up tapping it out to 7/16 and just sticking a rusty bolt in there with some Teflon tape. I got out most (not all) of the shavings from the tap and topped off the bleed hole with fluid before closing it up. It worked better than I expected.

Now... Do I have to buy a new caliper, or should I be able to just get a 7/16 bleeder screw now that I've tapped this hole? I know I did not bottom out the tap on the caliper hole seat, so that interface should be in tact.

I'd rather not buy a new caliper and have it powder coated if I don't have to, but I think I know how this willl go.

Google is your friend on this.

https://www.google.com/search?q=brak...hrome&ie=UTF-8

I guess I should have been more clear... I was wondering if anyone here had experience with this they could share

:shakes head:

You want me to fix it for you?

It's repair kits for stripped out bleed holes. 2 ways of doing it. Heli-coil or new seat and bleeder screw. I've done it both ways.

Do they hold up well... Which would you recommend... ?

I don't know, since you already drilled it.

I haven't done this specific job but have done similar jobs as an industrial maintenance person. If you did the temporary repair job in situ, you probably have metal shavings and PTFE tape in the system. Remove the caliper, disassemble, clean caliper and flush fluid, re-tap hole if needed, re-assemble with new bleeder and without PTFE tape.

I absolutely have some shavings from the tap and probably some tape as well. It sounds like the consensus is that our calipers have enough metal around the bleed screw to make this a viable solution (given that at least Rusty has done it)

This is my current situation in case anyone is wondering

https://i.imgur.com/Q9JRaaHl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1QMdcpbl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XHHCStql.jpg

The threads on the rusty bolt are wet because it was failing to hold pressure before I put the Teflon tape on it. It sealed perfectly after that, but I did not take a picture.

On a side note...
Those streams of brake fluid sat on the caliper for a day and wiped off the powder coat immediately with Dawn and water. It didn't etch/eat the powder coat like some people say it does to paint, so I'm happy about that

just replace it. I couldn't find torque specs for the caliper halves.
https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...81_796468_5913

You send it to Rusty & it’ll be good as new...a heli-coil is stronger than the aluminum, but if for some reason that you’ve cracked the caliper...then would probably need another one, or 1/2 one to build back up to spec :tup:

There is no torque spec listed in the manual. You have to use a spec from on of these.

https://www.google.com/search?q=metr...w=1280&bih=578

They also have those tables in the GI section of the manual, but I've found some mismatching torques used in the work steps so I'm a bit leery about just using tables.

When he offered to fix mine above I assumed he was being sarcastic because he did it after the "angry face" lol

You was clear on what you needed. That's why the :shakes head:

The torque values are based on dry and wet threads. The torque values for the caliper bolts ain't that high. I forgot what I torqued mine too. I have it written down someplace, but where? :icon14: You know what the bolt diameter is?