Stripped caliper bleed hole

dts3 · 07-27-2019, 08:48 PM

As the subject says. I was bleeding my brakes and overdid it tightening the bleeder screws. It stripped out and was leaking from both the bleeder hole and threads. I wasn't home so I ended up tapping it out to 7/16 and just sticking a rusty bolt in there with some Teflon tape. I got out most (not all) of the shavings from the tap and topped off the bleed hole with fluid before closing it up. It worked better than I expected.

Now... Do I have to buy a new caliper, or should I be able to just get a 7/16 bleeder screw now that I've tapped this hole? I know I did not bottom out the tap on the caliper hole seat, so that interface should be in tact.

I'd rather not buy a new caliper and have it powder coated if I don't have to, but I think I know how this willl go.

Rusty · 07-27-2019, 09:18 PM

Google is your friend on this.

https://www.google.com/search?q=brak...hrome&ie=UTF-8

dts3 · 07-27-2019, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Google is your friend on this.

https://www.google.com/search?q=brak...hrome&ie=UTF-8

I guess I should have been more clear... I was wondering if anyone here had experience with this they could share

Rusty · 07-27-2019, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dts3

I guess I should have been more clear... I was wondering if anyone here had experience with this they could share

You want me to fix it for you?

It's repair kits for stripped out bleed holes. 2 ways of doing it. Heli-coil or new seat and bleeder screw. I've done it both ways.

dts3 · 07-27-2019, 10:58 PM

Do they hold up well... Which would you recommend... ?

Rusty · 07-27-2019, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dts3

Do they hold up well... Which would you recommend... ?

I don't know, since you already drilled it.

SouthArk370Z · 07-28-2019, 07:34 AM

I haven't done this specific job but have done similar jobs as an industrial maintenance person. If you did the temporary repair job in situ, you probably have metal shavings and PTFE tape in the system. Remove the caliper, disassemble, clean caliper and flush fluid, re-tap hole if needed, re-assemble with new bleeder and without PTFE tape.

dts3 · 07-28-2019, 01:45 PM

I absolutely have some shavings from the tap and probably some tape as well. It sounds like the consensus is that our calipers have enough metal around the bleed screw to make this a viable solution (given that at least Rusty has done it)

dts3 · 07-28-2019, 02:16 PM

This is my current situation in case anyone is wondering

The threads on the rusty bolt are wet because it was failing to hold pressure before I put the Teflon tape on it. It sealed perfectly after that, but I did not take a picture.

On a side note...
Those streams of brake fluid sat on the caliper for a day and wiped off the powder coat immediately with Dawn and water. It didn't etch/eat the powder coat like some people say it does to paint, so I'm happy about that

g96818 · 07-29-2019, 03:50 AM

just replace it. I couldn't find torque specs for the caliper halves.
https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...81_796468_5913

jchammond · 07-29-2019, 04:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dts3

This is my current situation in case anyone is wondering

The threads on the rusty bolt are wet because it was failing to hold pressure before I put the Teflon tape on it. It sealed perfectly after that, but I did not take a picture.

On a side note...
Those streams of brake fluid sat on the caliper for a day and wiped off the powder coat immediately with Dawn and water. It didn't etch/eat the powder coat like some people say it does to paint, so I'm happy about that

You send it to Rusty & it’ll be good as new...a heli-coil is stronger than the aluminum, but if for some reason that you’ve cracked the caliper...then would probably need another one, or 1/2 one to build back up to spec

Rusty · 07-29-2019, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g96818

just replace it. I couldn't find torque specs for the caliper halves.
https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...81_796468_5913

There is no torque spec listed in the manual. You have to use a spec from on of these.

https://www.google.com/search?q=metr...w=1280&bih=578

g96818 · 07-29-2019, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

There is no torque spec listed in the manual. You have to use a spec from on of these.

https://www.google.com/search?q=metr...w=1280&bih=578

They also have those tables in the GI section of the manual, but I've found some mismatching torques used in the work steps so I'm a bit leery about just using tables.

dts3 · 07-29-2019, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jchammond

You send it to Rusty & it’ll be good as new...a heli-coil is stronger than the aluminum, but if for some reason that you’ve cracked the caliper...then would probably need another one, or 1/2 one to build back up to spec

When he offered to fix mine above I assumed he was being sarcastic because he did it after the "angry face" lol

Rusty · 07-29-2019, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dts3

When he offered to fix mine above I assumed he was being sarcastic because he did it after the "angry face" lol

You was clear on what you needed. That's why the

The torque values are based on dry and wet threads. The torque values for the caliper bolts ain't that high. I forgot what I torqued mine too. I have it written down someplace, but where?

You know what the bolt diameter is?

07-27-2019, 08:48 PM	#1 (permalink)
dts3 Track Member Join Date: May 2018 Location: Farmington Hills, MI Posts: 599 Drives: 08 Expedition Rep Power: 6765	Stripped caliper bleed hole As the subject says. I was bleeding my brakes and overdid it tightening the bleeder screws. It stripped out and was leaking from both the bleeder hole and threads. I wasn't home so I ended up tapping it out to 7/16 and just sticking a rusty bolt in there with some Teflon tape. I got out most (not all) of the shavings from the tap and topped off the bleed hole with fluid before closing it up. It worked better than I expected. Now... Do I have to buy a new caliper, or should I be able to just get a 7/16 bleeder screw now that I've tapped this hole? I know I did not bottom out the tap on the caliper hole seat, so that interface should be in tact. I'd rather not buy a new caliper and have it powder coated if I don't have to, but I think I know how this willl go.

07-27-2019, 09:18 PM	#2 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,220 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	Google is your friend on this. https://www.google.com/search?q=brak...hrome&ie=UTF-8 __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

07-28-2019, 07:34 AM	#7 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 8,435 Drives: 2014 Challenger Rep Power: 324198	I haven't done this specific job but have done similar jobs as an industrial maintenance person. If you did the temporary repair job in situ, you probably have metal shavings and PTFE tape in the system. Remove the caliper, disassemble, clean caliper and flush fluid, re-tap hole if needed, re-assemble with new bleeder and without PTFE tape. __________________ Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

07-28-2019, 02:16 PM	#9 (permalink)
dts3 Track Member Join Date: May 2018 Location: Farmington Hills, MI Posts: 599 Drives: 08 Expedition Rep Power: 6765	This is my current situation in case anyone is wondering The threads on the rusty bolt are wet because it was failing to hold pressure before I put the Teflon tape on it. It sealed perfectly after that, but I did not take a picture. On a side note... Those streams of brake fluid sat on the caliper for a day and wiped off the powder coat immediately with Dawn and water. It didn't etch/eat the powder coat like some people say it does to paint, so I'm happy about that Last edited by dts3; 07-28-2019 at 03:27 PM.

07-29-2019, 03:50 AM	#10 (permalink)
g96818 Track Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: A rock in a big pond Posts: 681 Drives: 2009 370Z, 2012 M56 Rep Power: 3394	just replace it. I couldn't find torque specs for the caliper halves. https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...81_796468_5913 __________________ CZP are lying thieves!

07-27-2019, 10:58 PM	#5 (permalink)
dts3 Track Member Join Date: May 2018 Location: Farmington Hills, MI Posts: 599 Drives: 08 Expedition Rep Power: 6765	Do they hold up well... Which would you recommend... ?

07-28-2019, 01:45 PM	#8 (permalink)
dts3 Track Member Join Date: May 2018 Location: Farmington Hills, MI Posts: 599 Drives: 08 Expedition Rep Power: 6765	I absolutely have some shavings from the tap and probably some tape as well. It sounds like the consensus is that our calipers have enough metal around the bleed screw to make this a viable solution (given that at least Rusty has done it)

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