Still having stability issues

Spooler

If you have to argue with the guy, you are going to the wrong place.

shadow85

Well I hope I don't have to argue. I have not much energy left seeing this Z through.

Lol

shadow85

UPDATE2:

Workshop is working on the aligment again, they said they have reduced the caster difference and it has made a big improvement and seems to be extremly responsive when steering. Only requires a very minimal amount of movement on the steering wheel for the car to turn.

They said that they are trying to adjust the camber and toe on the rear. When they adjust camber the rear toe goes out by a huge amount so they are working on being able to adjust the toe. They said I may need to purchase this part because of my new coilover that has replaced the factory shock/spring:




So I gave them a link to this part:
https://www.hardracesuspension.com.a...-z34-2008.html

They said thats the one I required.

But I am confused because I already have the eibach rear camber/toe alignment kit installed, I thought that should be able to adjust the toe on the rear or is that eibach one just limited?

Would this SPL part be the one I need?
Adjustable Rear Toe Arms for the Nissan 370Z and Infiniti G37 | SPL Parts

OptionZero

Do you have true coilover type or OEM type coilovers?

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OptionZero

Longer explanation:

All of the suspension components work together and affect alignment. Changing one may, and likely will, affect the entire suspension. Think of a pyramid, and if you change the length of one edge you affect the entire shape. This is why people like me tell you to get the damn SPL Catalog - full adjustability to get your alignment perfectly dialed in to what you want

SPL has come out with a buncha options so explaining this is going to be harder than before.

Generic diagram of rear 370Z suspension. The focus is on arms number 11, 12, and 14.


#14 is the arm that has a bucket for the spring.
What you replace it with depends on whether you have true type or OEM type rear coilovers. The OEM type has the spring separate from the shock. The spring sits literally in the bucket, hence the name, and the shock is bolted to other connection points.

OEM type coilovers require this:
Rear Adjustable Toe Midlinks for the 370Z and G37 | SPL Parts
Look at the pix and it is obvious why, it has a bucket for the spring. This affects toe and also height since it provides adjustability for how the spring sits.

True type requires EITHER:
Adjustable Rear Toe Arms for the Nissan 370Z and Infiniti G37 | SPL Parts
or
Adjustable Rear Toe Arms for the Nissan 370Z and Infiniti G37 | SPL Parts

SPL just happens to have two designs now, apparently.

Arm #11 is the camber arm
It is replaced by this:
Adjustable Rear Camber Arms for 370Z and G37 | SPL Parts
or
Adjustable Billet Rear Camber Links for the 370Z and G37 | SPL Parts

Again, SPL has a regular and billet version. As the name states this controls camber

Arm #12 is the traction arm. it affects toe and is replaced by this:
Adjustable Rear Traction Arms for the 370Z and G37 | SPL Parts
Looks like just one version is sold now

lastly, you need this:
Eccentric Lockout Kit for the 370Z & G37 | SPL Parts
From the factory, toe adjusted with an eccentric bolt that is prone to slipping. Since you have all adjustable arms, you no longer need this adjustment point, and it's just a weakpoint for alignment to be disrupted anyways. The lockout kit is just like the name - it locks this bolt in place so it does not slip, leaving your alignment intact from your other arms

This problem is not the Z - the problem is you didn't think this thru from the beginning and learn what it takes to lower a Z and what it takes to get the alignment properly adjusted

This is why we all tell you to do much more reading before doing anything

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shadow85

Thanks OZ, yea true I did not realise the major impact of lowering the car. Surprisingly not once did I see it mentioned when I was researching on what coilover to get for the Z or lowering the car lol

As I mentioned before I have the MCA Street Ultimate coilover, it is the spring and shock in one true style coilover replacing the OEM style.

Spooler

Yes, you need SPL Toe arms that don't have a bucket.

shadow85

Is it a MUST for the SPL
Rear Toe Midlinks and
Adjustable traction Rod and
Eccentric Lockout

Or can I getaway with just the Rear Toe Arms?

Really not keen on dropping another $3K AUD on these SPL parts after just spending that on the coilovers.

But if it is a must for rectifying my issue, then I guess I will have to bite the bullet.

OptionZero

Are you really going to halfass it after all the stuff we've told you?

All of these arms work together to varying degrees, as does the lockout kit

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SouthArk370Z

I don't blame you; that's a lot of money to spend on top of what you've already spent. Based on what little I know about suspensions (not a lot) and the advice you've been given (from people that know what they are talking about), ...
It sounds to me like your two main choices are:
1. Spend the money to lower your car correctly.
2. Go back to a stock stance.

Bite the bullet.

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shadow85

No never said I was going to, just asking weather it is feasible for just the lower toe arm.

But yea, the shop got back to me and also told me to get the SPL front Upper caster for them to get the caster 100% perfect.

Godamm I have like another $4K AUD to spend ahead of me. Not fun after all the $$$ I already I burnt into it haha. I am well into a low km GTR territory when I have finished all this.

So its
SPL- Front Upper caster
- Rear lower Toe Arm
- Rear Traction Rod
- Eccentric Lockout Kit
- Adjustable Rear Toe Links.

....

Spooler

Traction links you don't need. You will need the lockout kit for Toe and camber, Toe arms, and camber arm.

Rusty

When you start to change stuff. Be prepared to start changing more things. You just got a couple of toes in the rabbit hole.

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BGTV8

One of the questions I was going to ask was about the state of your suspension bushes.

When you double the torque with FI, it can turn the OEM bushes into marshmellow pretty quickly and replacing bushes is the only way out. That is another reason to replace the arms with SPL gear as they come with rod-end/spherical bearings.

If there is slop in the bushes then the car will display a habit of throttle steering.

You are well and truly underground in the rabbit burrow now

shadow85

I have got the car back from the alignment shop again.

They told me I will need the SPL Front Upper control Arm to replace my current SPC Control arms, that will allow for better caster adjustment. The current SPC ones don't allow for much caster adjustment.

I will need the SPL rear lower adjustable toe arm, that will replace the factory midlink.

I won't need the SPL rear midlink because I have a true coilover, thats what the SPL rear lower toe arm will replace.

I won't need the SPL rear camber arm because the current Eibach rear camber arm inatalled already allows for enough adjustments needed, its just that it puts the toe out too much, thats why I will need the SPL lower adjustable toe arm.

They told me, not worry about the rear traction rod because it is very difficult to get that dialed in rite and would be alot of labor. Their 950whp shop car has been sponsored by a company called Gtek that gave them a rear traction rod to use and test out and it took them 3 years of testing and tuning to get it perfect. So they believe the rear traction rod won't be worth it for me.

So I will need only 3 SPL items for now.
FUCA
Rear adjustable lower toe arm
Eccentric lockout kit