Debating Resurfacing Rotors vs Replacing
 

Re-bedding in has not resolved problem. Running Stoptech drilled rotors and Hawk 5.0 street pads with approx 15k on them on OEM sport brakes. My repair shops says rotors are "warped" and should be replaced. They don't recommend machining/resurfacing. Haven't contacted resurfacing brake shop yet.

Thoughts? Questions I should ask?

If I replace, should I go with drilled and slotted? Texas gets 100+ degrees for 30 - 90 days per year. 370z brakes are known to get hot quickly. I drive assertively. (I use ATE Type 200 brake fluid.)

Never really heard of resurfacing drilled rotors.

Swap out for plain or slotted only, at least that way you can have them resurfaced in the future if need be.

Drilled and slotted don't really do much for performance. It used to help with off gassing during braking but modern composite pads no longer off gas. Even the most dedicated track guys will still run blanks. If the shop can cut the rotors, great. Otherwise new front rotors are not too expensive.

You can cut drilled and slotted rotors. Just can't take a deep of a cut as on a blank rotor. To determine if cutting or replacing. Have to find out how much runout there is, and what the min thickness is. You do not want to cut under the min thickness. Most cases, taking off about .030" per side is the limit I would go if still above the min limit.



I have seen new rotors never put on a vehicle have runout beyond what is allowed.

I'd go ahead and replace the rotors. Then I'd take a look at my braking habits and see if I could change something to prevent warping in the future.

Depending on your budget...it does not matter if they are drilled-as long as thickness is within specs, you are OK to resurface.

I'd take old rotors to resurfacing place and ask them to put them to lathe to see if they are actually warped. Once I had "bent" rotor-where it sits on the hub, not on the friction surface. (I tracked the car, but still have no clue how it can happen)

Otherwise-get new rotors-try different brand, make sure hubs are shiny clean before install and NO impact gun on wheel nuts, manual torguing only.
Regarding heat-unless you are tracking, you should not worry.

I had a local machine shop take the old marcel of my OE rotors and easily stay over min. thickness. Came out like new!!

IMO stick with blanks, stronger and cheaper and all you need for the street. frozen rotors offer a little more strength against warping if that's whats really happening.