I believe when i ordered it, there were only 2 sets.

When I get to working on my car next week I can give you some measurements. They are the same shape as the entire back side of the pads.

JARblue, thanks for the link, here is the response I received;

We ran out of the front shims for Nissan 370Z, in both plain and notched, last week.

We have the plains on the next production run. The notched are on the production run after that.

Please keep an eye on our Ebay store. As soon as they come in, we will get them listed.

Wow I'm surprised I'm reading about shims etc. over retrofitted Corvette and AMG calipers that I see owners installing over on Facebook. Especially, if brakes are leaking out of bleeders and changing color.

He has some in stock if anyone is interested;

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We got a couple of the fronts finished.

Front Plain:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/233187328989

Front Notched:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/233187329664

Rear Plain:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/333122624316



Plain vs. Notched

We do notched and plain versions for pads which have metal wear feelers on the OEM and aftermarket replacement pads, but may not have wear feelers on racing pads. Metal wear feelers are pieces of flat metal, riveted to the back of the pad, and bet around to rub against the rotor and make an annoying squeal when the pad is worn out and should be replaced.

Many racing pads do not have wear feelers, either to save cost, or weight, or because racing vehicles are supposed to be obsessively maintained and the brakes are always looked at before and after each race, and sometimes during. Some of the racing pad companies like Hawk are inconsistent. Some of their street performance and even racing pads have wear feelers. This makes things more confusing.

We make our shims to cover the entire back of the pad in order to provide maximum shielding. The notched shims fit closely around the wear feelers and raised rivet heads of OEM pads. The plain shims cover the entire back of a racing pad, but do not clear the wear feelers and raised rivet heads.
The shim has to fit flat against the back of the pad, and will not bend or conform around anything in the way. Using a plain shim on a pad with wear feelers would not allow the brakes to disengage properly, as the corner of the shim is held away from the back of the pad. It will flex and will be damaged, but will not flatten against the pad. The brakes will not fully disengage and the pedal travel will be excessively long.

Please make sure to check your pads for which shim you need.


Bill Luton

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I haven’t taken a infrared temps with and without shims. But my heat shields have turned that pretty burnt Ti color, maybe that came from running out of pad at the track?!? Or me driving hard in the track. I mean I’ve come in after a session and the rotors are smoking. But the car never lost brakes or had fluid leaking out nipples.

Just ordered the fronts. Hope it helps with my fluid leak.I'm on the fence on the rears still. I've only gotten fluid leak on those once.

That's Facebook users for ya. It's all about it being Corvette or AMG calipers, not that they will work properly. Mainly mall crawlers that never see the track if I had to guess.

Do you have brake cooling ducts installed? If not, get'em.

Finally got around to swapping pads after my track day. I will start by saying weather was cool and rainy so temps probably didn't get near what a dry summer day would be and the shims back that up. Absolutely no color change and the dust boots are in perfect condition.

Just bought front "plain" shims for XP10 pads. Do these shims go in between the stock shims or do they replace the OEM shims completely? And are you guys greasing both sides of the shim?

Old topic but I'll throw this out there since I didn't see it mentioned: Stainless steel shims would work almost as well but be way way way easier on the wallet.

I replaced, but do think keeping stock ones on would still be beneficial.More material.

I do wonder the actual effectiveness, because backing plates are already about 5mm thick.