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Originally Posted by Spooler The only time this will be awesome is if you get wheel hop. That is when the rear diff stud may break. If you get wheel
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#1 (permalink) | |
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#3 (permalink) |
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This is the review that I'm posting again.
![]() If you have exhaust like FI that are close to the diff. This brace won't fit unless you trim about 1 3/8" on the corner of the brace. The other problem is that the upper mounting hole does not line up with the hole in the sub-frame. It's off by a bolt hole diameter. They say to loosen the diff bolting up to the diff so that you can move the diff around and get the holes to line up. Problem is if you have a solid bushing like SPL. When tightening the diff bolting back down. This will put stress on the bolting that you don't need. If you have the stock rubber bushing. you might get away with it. The other thing that I noticed. There is weld beads on both sides of the bends of the brace. It looks like when bending the metal to shape. The metal cracked at the bends. So they welded over the cracks to hide them. Rusty
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Just seen this on the Z1 website.
"Thank you for your review. It has been submitted to the store owner for approval and should appear shortly."
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The picture on Z1's site shows the same welding. Looks like it's that way for all the braces. So either a) they wanted to be extra sure the brace was strong, or b) this is a substandard product.
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#6 (permalink) |
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I've seen this before in fabing parts. They're putting a flat piece into an iron worker and pressing it into shape. Either they need to put some lube on the piece to let it move or the dies need adjusted.
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#8 (permalink) | |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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