OEM Sport Brakes vs XP8 vs XP10

ChrisSlicks

I would do both. By only doing the fronts you would create a braking force inbalance which could be dangerous. Plus you would be burning up your stock rear pads very quickly.

spearfish25

Thanks for the input. For a few HPDEs a year, it seems like XP8s should be fine, right? The price differential for the XP10s is minimal though.

Can someone also comment on the hand-sanding, rebedding issue of swapping pads? I'm not into a new set of rotors at the moment.

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ChrisSlicks

XP8's should be fine. The XP10 is a slightly more aggressive compound that will have more initial bite which might take a little getting used to, but lots of professional drivers like that feeling.

Most people are simply swapping these pads back and forth and then rebedding the stock pad on the street after driving 50 miles or so to wear off any pad film. The compounds seem to be reasonably compatible, shouldn't need sanding or separate rotors. Some people drive them on the street but they can be dusty and a little noisy.

spearfish25

Cool, thanks. +rep for quick, helpful answers. The XP8s are probably a big enough upgrade for my purposes.

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2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

Mike

I am going XP12/XP10 combo with R compounds, on the recommendation from Carbotech. They have my brembo pads right now and are relining them for me.

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ChrisSlicks

Yeah for r-comps you could definitely use the extra torque and higher heat capacity.

Sharif@Forged

Carbotech's seem to bed in really quickly so this should not be a problem for you. Because the compounds are all rotor friendly, if you run XP8's you might even consider running them on the street. The only drawback is the noise and increased dust. Just a thought for the lazy among us.

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spearfish25

Perhaps I can just run the Carbotechs until I swap the winter rims/tires back on. Then I'll switch back to OEM until the summer tires come back out.

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2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

Girald

My first day on track was scary to say the least (not because of monsters or voices,,, i see and hear those daily). As I do with everything, I pushed it hard over consecutive 30 minute sessions on Z1 rotors, OEM Bonos, and Stoptech Pads.... (((At High Plains Raceway)))

With this setup, I thought, "im golden, go harder and faster", no poops given...

So, going 120mph @ WoT down a straight and ready to stand on the brakes, the pedal went through the floor!.... so off the track I go...

As i pulled in for pit inspection, I wondered wtf? After an hour to let cool, I realized BRAKE FLUID BOIL.

Went back out on track with cool everything (or cooler) and rocked out my last session but braking earlier for a cushion and emergency plan if this happened twice (and take it easy in traffic) Noted more play (spongy) after the boil out... Drive home was back to 80% normal but the new mission was to get that remedied for future track situations
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Moral of the story: The stop-techs work great on street and track (enough to chirp track tires) but not a competitive track pad. So I bought and I am about to bed in XP8s for next session 2 weeks away. Other Z drivers on the same track (and other car types) swear by carbotechs, so lets try it out

The OEM brake fluid needs a swap out with RBF600 Motul ASAP! I did it myself with a pressure kit (wasEZZZZZ) Also did my clutch fluid right after ( that sewage needed replacing - anything to stretch out the oem CSC life)

I also did a DIY air ducting of my own based upon some DIYs done in here. There's controversy over what warps rotors, and I can say that before I had bad shutters when I got the rotors hot - and after ducting,,, Z E R O shutter (not ABS, just shutter) So, Im doing something right.

The Z1 2-piece slotted rotors are a logical choice for me since disk swap-outs are easier, cheaper and practical for my purposes... Slotted? it looks cool and I like cool...

SIDE NOTE: If you decide to track your car: aside from brake/fluid upgrades, you WILL need an aftermarket oil cooler (the 2012+"oem"oil cooler does nothing - get rid of it.... I went with the Fast Intentions 32 row and im still running 230*f max temps when im pushing... to give you an idea. In other words, you will go nuclear if OEM on track all day.

You also want to change your rear camber links that eliminate adjustment bolts ( I went with SPL) unless you are a masochist for tire alignments.

A dedicated second set of Track Tires and Rims are best practice. ( I went with federal 595 rs-rr, for the price, but you cant go wrong with re-71rs )and a second set of sport OEMS or whatever true-forged rims you find (I went with 2015 nismos for my dailys, and the OEM sport 2015s for my track beaters)

Hope this helps

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Rusty

Everything you did and experienced is in here.

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