Braking bad...
 

Hey guys!

So I’ve done a couple of track days and mountain runs with my Z since purchasing it in April. I have noticed some very odd things while under braking. Not necessarily hard braking, or consistent locations. Sometimes when I’m entering a corner the fronts will trigger the anti lock system and I’m not even on the brakes that hard. Other times I’m in the brakes hard and deep and the car brakes real nice. It’s not a consistent experience at all. My car is stock, with the exception of slotted front rotors and Motul RBF 600. I have no idea what kind of pads are in it, there is lots of meat on the pads still and I’m not going to replace them for better pads until they’re gone. I’m running bf Goodrich comp 2 a/s tires. I know they’re not great at all, but the dealer slapped them on new when I bought the car. So again, I’m not replacing them with something better until they’re wasted.

Usually when it triggers, I have to just deal with the resulting understeer by mashing the gas to get the rear to swing around. (which is one thing the Z does really, really well imo)

It’s my opinion that the electric nannying in our cars is far too invasive. The traction control system cuts in at the littlest bit of slip and the abs triggers whenever it wants. I’ve read some threads about ice mode triggering and I wondering if that’s what I am experiencing. Is there any way to just shut down anti lock? Help, questions and comments are all appreciated thanks in advance guys!

Are you sure tire diameters are in spec?

Pretty sure they’re in spec. They are the OEM sizes for the wheels. They’re not flat spotted or anything.

Do you have the VDC off? If not. It will apply brake pressure to a rear wheel to straighten the car out. Most times when it happens. It will point you in the wrong direction.

ABLS still applies the rear brakes when wheel slip is detected even if VDC is off :twocents:

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...er-switch.html

Not as much. But it will still do it.

Very true. ABLS is far less invasive than VDC. But it still can catch you off guard at the limit, especially if you're not expecting it.

.........and it will always point you in the wrong direction. :shakes head:

Maybe a flakey wheel speed sensor?

Can uprev or ECUTEK tuning shut all of that "ABLS" along with traction control down entirely?

How would I know if a wheel speed sensor is bad?

If it was a wheel speed sensor. You would have a CEL.

That's not always the case. I have fixed several cars that had no CEL. It was caused by a wheel speed sensor that was reading low.

Hmmmmm...........never come across that yet. The ones I replaced had a CEL.

That is because the resistance was off which is what happens most of the time. I have had a couple I had to put diagnostics on and drive around watching the wheel speed sensors. The other thing I have found is someone who swapped an axle and forgot to transfer the reluctor wheel on the new axle.

Ditto. It's like a half-a** failure. It's strange

2016 front pad wear
 

Hi Guy's; I have a 2016 basic Z. 9,000 miles. For some reason the front inside pads are wearing out. I replaced the front pads 4,000 miles ago. Now 5,000 miles later I see the inside pads need replacing again. This will be the 3rd time at only 9,000 miles. The dealer is a hundred miles away plus I don't care for them. I have always done my own brake work. It is a 2nd car for me to keep my Mustang out of the rain. Car has never been driven hard. I'm 66 yr's old. Ha

Seized brake piston?

brakes
 

No seized pistons. All my symptoms are indicative of a caliper not floating. Both sides are the same. Car is two years old with 9,000 miles.

Sounds like you might have some rust and corrosion built up on the slides. Is it just one caliper doing it, or both?

Brakes
 

Yes both sides are the same wear. Is it normal for the inner pad to wear out ten times fast than the outer pads on this car.

2016, with 9,000 miles. Is it a stick or auto? If it's an auto. Do you ride with your foot on the brake, or use a 2 feet driving style?

I've seen a lot of cars where pad wear was uneven but I haven't seen many where the pads needed to be changed every 4-5k miles. First thing I would check is that the pads are installed properly with all required shims, keepers, etc.

My dad had one of the first VW Rabbits that came out of the Pa. factory in the mid '70's. It would go through front pads every 7,000 miles, and rotors at 14,000 miles. Front tires would last 10,000 miles. My dad never changes the rear brakes or rear tires the whole time he owned it. The dealer and VW couldn't find anything wrong with it. VW picked up the tab for the brakes ad rotors under warranty.

The fact that's it's happening on both sides is what has me puzzled. A sticking caliper or piston is usually on just one side. The more I think about it, the less likely it seems that it is a hydraulic problem (unless both calipers are plugged between the two sides and that's as unlikely as two frozen calipers/pistons). I'm inclined to believe that the root problem is poor braking habits, the uneven wear is normal and exaggerated by the accelerated rate of wear. YMMV

See post 21. If not that. Something is holding pressure in the front calipers when the brakes are released. ABS module? Master cylinder? The old Chevy Chevettes had the same issue. Found that the master cylinder rod was too long from the factory

If it were at the master cylinder (too much pressure to front), I'd think OP would notice the front-to-rear imbalance. Maybe not - depends on driving habits. Still doesn't explain the uneven wear - wouldn't both pads experience the same high pressure?

I don't understand enough about how an ABS module does its thing to say this with any confidence but it seems to me that it would affect only one side. Even it is affecting both sides, it's the same piping/hose going to inner and outer sides of a caliper and shouldn't cause uneven wear.

How about rotors that are offset a little so that it rides closer to one set of pads? I doubt OP is unlucky enough to get two bad rotors.

But I'm just thinking out loud. I'm inclined to go with poor braking habits but wouldn't bet any money on it at this point.

Edit: I'm not saying it can't be stuck calipers/pistons, just that it would be unlikely for both sides to have the same problem. Both are relatively easy to check, so checking would be on my todo list - just not at the top.

:iagree:
How can I say this and make sense. In the master cylinder. The porting is set up so that when you press on the pedal. The front brakes get pressure before the rear brakes. The front brake port opens first, then the rear port opens. If the piston doesn't come back all the way when you release the brakes. It will hold some pressure on the front brakes. This is what was happening on the old Chevettes. The brake rod from the pedal to the master cylinder should have a little play in it. Easy to check.

Ah. I see what you mean. Sounds like something to check.