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Need help eliminating oversteer
I am running a full race 370z and I have been struggling with oversteer. Now, I don't mind a car that oversteers, but I can't stand dancing the car through turns and having to wait to go to power after the apex because the *** wants to swap ends with the front.
The car is lowered and running on JRZ double adjustable coil over's. Spring rates are 1K up front and 800 rear. The bar is disconnected in the back to try to get some bite, but it's still only a partial fix. We have experimented with dampening and now I am pulling the shocks to soften the springs in the rear, but I just don't think I am going to get a marked improvement without altering the geometry in the back. Is there anybody that has ANY feedback on the WiseFab rear suspension upgrade? Is there a significant improvement to be had by using their geometry? Any help would be appreciated. Feel free to ask questions if you need. |
Curious.....Tire compound and size? Aero? Current alignment reading?
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Yep need a lot more information on your setup before we can begin to answer your questions.
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I have all the data in my binder in the transporter and the car is out of state. I will have to get back to you when I get the car back this weekend.
Thanks for the quick responses. |
There's some info in here on this same topic.
http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...ndersteer.html |
Ok, here is more information:
Front wheels: 18x9.5 Enkei NT03+M / 275/30 Hoosier R7 Rear wheels: 18x10.5 Enkei NT03+M / 295/30 Hoosier R7 Left Front -2.9 Camber 5 Caster .09 Toe Front total toe .19 Steer ahead 0.00 Right Front -2.3 Camber 5 Caster .10 Toe Left Rear -2 Camber .22 Toe Right Rear -2 Camber .21 Toe Rear Total Toe 0.44 Rear thrust angle 0.01 Chassis: TC Designs custom cage with reinforcement to firewall JRZ RS-Pro 2-way adjustable dampers with Hyperco springs 1000 / 800 SPL rear camber arms SPL rear toe links SPL rear knuckle monoball bushings SPC front camber arms Hotchkis sway bars Drivetrain: OS Giken 1.5 way differential with 3.54 gears Short shift Custom tilton/ setrab diff cooler with toggle switch Diff Pump and cooler Brakes Stoptech Trophy motorsports brakes with slotted rotors. 6 piston front, dual piston rear. Tevis stand alone motorsports ABS system with Tilton adjustable bias valve Engine Stillen gen 3 intake Tuned for 93 octane 354 WHP/ 305 WTQ on Pellegrini Performance dynojet AE Performance oil cooler Custom 4 -> 1 SS Exhaust Long tube headers from Fast Intentions Fuel: ATL 32 Gallon FIA certified Fuel Cell Moroso Fuel Pump Moroso fuse panel and switches Interior Sparco 330mm flat bottom steering wheel with quick release Steering wheel mounted controls (Radio, Brights, Cool Shirt, PTP, Limiter) AFFF Fire system Custom carbon switch panel Custom dead pedal Battery relocated to trunk area Aero: Aeromotions carbon wing Lowered front end and splitter Front underpan Midsection underpan Carbon rear deck Lexan windows Carbon lowered side skirts Composite fenders with exhaust ducting 3" carbon front brake cooling intakes and ducts https://www.instagram.com/p/BmCOCkrB...y=too_cool_dad |
I need to see some pictures of your car she sounds bad *** and you got all the good stuff.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BmCOASBF...y=too_cool_dad https://www.instagram.com/p/BmCOCkrB...y=too_cool_dad |
You may want to get her corner balanced since you gone full race car before you start making adjustments. That will help with getting your spring rates and ride height to a place you can start to work from.
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Wow standalone ABS. You weren't kidding when you said a full race car.
Could you describe the oversteer? Was it entry, mid corner, exit, or left to right transition? When you've gone into thinking changing rear suspension geometry, I am sure you have already tried the usual suspects, like toe, downforce, rebound and compression settings, brake bias....It'll be great if you can share the different adjustments you've made and your conclusions on them. And the SPC front camber arms...typo? |
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