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Adjustable camber arms...alignment time! More parts?

Originally Posted by OptionZero Sorry, i've never heard of any cutting required to do a simple alignment on the back of a Z, and any shop that tried to tell

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Old 01-22-2018, 09:28 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by OptionZero View Post
Sorry, i've never heard of any cutting required to do a simple alignment on the back of a Z, and any shop that tried to tell me cutting the subframe was needed would be a shop i never go back to.

Get the 3 appropriate SPL arms and alignment is essentially limitless.
SPC/SPL Toe bolts require you to elongate the toe bolt hole in order to have more adjustments or bring it back to spec, they even come with a template. Not much of a hack job it just requires you to grind down a small amount of the edges. Brought my car to Auto Innovation here in the Bay Area which is a known reputable shop here and even they told me I had to elongate the subframe holes to install aftermarket toe bolts.

Heres a DIY
DIY: Rear toe bolts install (Pics)
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Old 01-23-2018, 09:03 AM   #17 (permalink)
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SPC/SPL Toe bolts require you to elongate the toe bolt hole in order to have more adjustments or bring it back to spec, they even come with a template. Not much of a hack job it just requires you to grind down a small amount of the edges. Brought my car to Auto Innovation here in the Bay Area which is a known reputable shop here and even they told me I had to elongate the subframe holes to install aftermarket toe bolts.

Heres a DIY
DIY: Rear toe bolts install (Pics)
Yup. Same here. Not only did one of the best alignment shops in town, Jack's Auto Alignment and Brakes, tell me that I needed it, the legendary Vitaly at Pitstop (the ONLY place I'll take my cars...) told me I may need it to get it back into spec, too.
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Old 01-23-2018, 01:08 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Yup. Same here. Not only did one of the best alignment shops in town, Jack's Auto Alignment and Brakes, tell me that I needed it, the legendary Vitaly at Pitstop (the ONLY place I'll take my cars...) told me I may need it to get it back into spec, too.
OptionZero is right, this is the cheap incorrect way of fixing your toe/camber. Ultimately you are reducing the reliability and also creating a situation where those eccentric bolts will start to loosen up quicker over time.
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Old 01-24-2018, 02:08 AM   #19 (permalink)
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OptionZero is right, this is the cheap incorrect way of fixing your toe/camber. Ultimately you are reducing the reliability and also creating a situation where those eccentric bolts will start to loosen up quicker over time.
The SPC bolts are essentially the same type of eccentric bolts as stock, they now have more adjustments due to elongating the hole. Im not sure how that is reducing the reliability as the stock bolts are also prone to slip over time and will slip under "high performance driving" as well. If we are talking about a weekend track car or even a dedicated track car then I would agree this isnt the route you should take, but as a Daily, spirited driving and maybe a track day a year this setup is acceptable and is the route I see most 350z/370z/G37 owners take.

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Old 01-24-2018, 11:16 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I think you overlooked the primary point of the statement, which is "will start to slip QUICKER over time".

And it's not the bolts I'm referring to that's unreliable, the deformation to the subframe holes is what causes the problem.
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Old 01-24-2018, 11:30 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I HIGHLY doubt making a hole that is already there 1/4" (if that) larger is going to have any averse effect on anything.

But...again...it's 30 bucks vs thousands for what will be EXTREME overkill for 95% of cars out there.
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Old 01-24-2018, 12:05 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Respectfully, quality suspension arms are never overkill. I don't think toe bolt vs toe arm / mid link alone represent difference of "thousands of dollars".
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Old 01-24-2018, 03:05 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I think you overlooked the primary point of the statement, which is "will start to slip QUICKER over time".

And it's not the bolts I'm referring to that's unreliable, the deformation to the subframe holes is what causes the problem.
I understand what you are saying I just dont agree that a slightly elongated hole will cause the toe bolt to slip quicker over time vs the stock toe bolt which is just as prone to slipping as the aftermarket one. Now if we were talking about it slipping out of spec even more vs stock then that would be something I agree with, but I have done enough research to where I havent seen anyone having any problems.
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Old 01-24-2018, 03:22 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I have no dog in the fight, it's your car. I'm just trying to give you an alternative viewpoint so that you know the potential problems down the road IF the arise.
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Old 01-24-2018, 03:39 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Respectfully, quality suspension arms are never overkill. I don't think toe bolt vs toe arm / mid link alone represent difference of "thousands of dollars".
I think a $30 toe bolt vs $1200 toe arm/mid link represents the difference maybe not thousands but thats a huge difference plus you need to find a true coilover system. I would LOVE your coilover setup though but I cant justify the purchase for a mostly street driven car lol.
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Old 01-24-2018, 08:07 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I think a $30 toe bolt vs $1200 toe arm/mid link represents the difference maybe not thousands but thats a huge difference plus you need to find a true coilover system. I would LOVE your coilover setup though but I cant justify the purchase for a mostly street driven car lol.
The toe arm and mid link are mutually exclusive, you wouldn't buy both. Toe arms are for those that have converted to true coilovers, midlinks would be for cars that maintain the divorced spring and shock setup.

I understand midlink vs toe bolt is still big price difference, however.
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Old 01-24-2018, 11:54 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I think a $30 toe bolt vs $1200 toe arm/mid link represents the difference maybe not thousands but thats a huge difference plus you need to find a true coilover system. I would LOVE your coilover setup though but I cant justify the purchase for a mostly street driven car lol.
You are 90% more likely to fk up your car on the street than you are on a race track. So the logic that good parts aren't necessary for the street is rather flawed thinking. You are 9 times more likely to hit a pot hole or hard bumps and debris on the street than on a track.
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Old 01-25-2018, 02:39 AM   #28 (permalink)
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You are 90% more likely to fk up your car on the street than you are on a race track. So the logic that good parts aren't necessary for the street is rather flawed thinking. You are 9 times more likely to hit a pot hole or hard bumps and debris on the street than on a track.
That might be true but find me a thread where a lot of people are complaining about their toe slipping out of spec after driving on the street, id assume you wont find much. I do think good parts are necessary for the street and the SPC bolts are good parts for a street driven Z. Either way you slice it the SPC bolts are the most cost effective way in correcting Toe, if in the future I see some major slippage(highly doubt it) I can still opt to go for the SPL mid link/SPL lockout kit.

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Old 01-25-2018, 11:13 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Just because someone isn't complaining about online doesn't mean it isn't happening.
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Old 01-25-2018, 08:35 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Just because someone isn't complaining about online doesn't mean it isn't happening.
Well researching multiple forums is a great way to start, more often than not you can find people complaining about aftermarket parts that arent good. From my research from Z33/Z34/G35/G37 I havent seen anyone complaining about the toe bolt slipping. I respect your opinion though
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