Mild track setup (BC Racing ER)

370Chicago · 01-01-2018, 06:21 PM

Happy new year everyone!

I'm finally getting around to making some suspension adjustments on my 2015 Nismo. I think i have a plan, but would love any additional insight.

Phase I: I'll start with BC Racing ER Series coilovers. The Nismo is a weekend and track-day car (nothing competitive though). I'm in downtown Chicago, so I'll only be dropping the car by .75" - 1" initially. At that drop and on stock Nismo wheels, I think I can get away without camber arms up front, but I will use SPL titanium camber arms in the rear. At .75" - 1" drop, do I need toe bolts?

Phase II: Assuming that I'm happy with how the coilovers perform, eventually I will seek to drop the car a bit more. This would involve installing an air cup system up front to avoid clearance issues, SPL camber arms up front and SPL rear mid links to get toe back in spec. To accommodate for the cups and rear mid links, Phase II would also see an upgrade to Swift springs (although I need to do more digging on spring rates).

For my intended uses, am I overlooking anything?

Brendan · 01-01-2018, 10:14 PM

I think it would be a good idea to buy the front and rear camber kit at the same time if you plan on driving the car on a track. I would also recommend reading up on the track day best practices thread. Good luck and have fun

OptionZero · 01-02-2018, 12:56 AM

After experiencing some fortune coilovers on another platform and what I heard about them from local drivers, I can't recommend them enough at the sub $2000 price point

Get the swift spring upgrades on the 510 series

The spl stuff, get it all at once. One install, one alignment

PharmDZ · 01-02-2018, 10:00 AM

If you get the BC's may as well do the swift upgrade from the start. Wasting money/time otherwise. That's what I did with mine (BC DR's with custom valving and 18K/14K swift springs).

MAMotorsports · 01-02-2018, 01:15 PM

I would recommend looking into Stance Coilovers, not only are they a solid option. They are headquartered not to far from you in Wheeling, IL. With their XR1 line up being in your budget and the local support to me it would be a no brainier!

For your other questions, you will want to have the toe bolts to be able to get the most out of the alignment even at that height. Front camber arms are not needed, but they help with getting the car dialed into your driving style.

If you have any questions at all shoot us a call at 410.593.7080

-Daelen

Rusty · 01-02-2018, 09:08 PM

First. Get plenty of face time with the windshield at the track before doing major up-grades. This way you will have a feeling in what you need and want. Going down this rabbit hole will get $$$$$$$$ Dumping money into this before hitting the track can and will be $$$$$$ if you guess wrong on what you need.

Before hitting the track. Things to do. Bleed your brakes with good brake fluid. Use at least Motul 600. Oil cooler. Get a 34 row. People will tell that you don't need that much. But as your speed increases at the track. The hotter the engine will be. Do it once and be done. If you have a manual. Wrap your clutch line down be the drivers side header with insulation. This will help keep the fluid from boiling. And keep the reservoir full. Same with the brake reservoir.
.

370Chicago · 01-02-2018, 09:30 PM

Thank you all for the input!

Rusty, I've been tracking the car for about a year and a half. The 34 row was the first thing done! I'm not sure if this is accurate, but I was told the larger one was all that would actually fit on the Nismo. I also went with Motul 600, but I did not wrap the clutch line, I'll have to put that on the list!

@OptionZero, I was looking at your set up and see that you went with an OEM style rear, with SPL rear mid links. Mind me asking why you went this route as opposed to a true rear? I'm weighing the options and a true rear would give me an extra $500 to spend on coils (as the rear mid link is about $500 more than toe arms), but I'm also nervous about the strut tower deforming.

Rusty · 01-02-2018, 09:42 PM

Get the SPL upper control arms and a Hotchkis front sway bar. Set your front alignment to -2 camber, +7 caster, toe in 1/16". Rear camber -1.5 to -1.75, toe in 1/16". You'll still have good tire life on the street.

370Chicago · 01-02-2018, 09:53 PM

Your toe figures are total, right (still putting all these concepts together)?

Rusty · 01-02-2018, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 370Chicago

Your toe figures are total, right (still putting all these concepts together)?

Yeah. You want a little toe in. In the rear. If you go zero or toe out. You will get snap-oversteer more often.

Brendan · 01-02-2018, 11:37 PM

There really isn't any benefit in running a true coil over in the rear, unless you also plan on reinforcing the strut towers or you really want a 1:1 motion ratio in the rear for some reason.

OptionZero · 01-03-2018, 01:42 AM

Aragosta probably could make some true types if I asked, but I didn't see any advantage and there are potential structural issues with the strut tower mounting area which weren't designed for true type

Probably fine in most cases but why **** around

240se · 01-03-2018, 02:56 PM

370Chicago I'm interested in buying your Nismo springs if you decide to sell them.

Rusty · 01-03-2018, 03:36 PM

I'm surprised that masseffect hasn't thrown his

in yet.

Hotrodz · 01-03-2018, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I'm surprised that masseffect hasn't thrown his

in yet.

He has been pretty silent silent since we told him less is more in responding to request for information. SAD!!!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

01-01-2018, 06:21 PM	#1 (permalink)
370Chicago Base Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Chicago Posts: 56 Drives: '15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 9	Mild track setup (BC Racing ER) Happy new year everyone! I'm finally getting around to making some suspension adjustments on my 2015 Nismo. I think i have a plan, but would love any additional insight. Phase I: I'll start with BC Racing ER Series coilovers. The Nismo is a weekend and track-day car (nothing competitive though). I'm in downtown Chicago, so I'll only be dropping the car by .75" - 1" initially. At that drop and on stock Nismo wheels, I think I can get away without camber arms up front, but I will use SPL titanium camber arms in the rear. At .75" - 1" drop, do I need toe bolts? Phase II: Assuming that I'm happy with how the coilovers perform, eventually I will seek to drop the car a bit more. This would involve installing an air cup system up front to avoid clearance issues, SPL camber arms up front and SPL rear mid links to get toe back in spec. To accommodate for the cups and rear mid links, Phase II would also see an upgrade to Swift springs (although I need to do more digging on spring rates). For my intended uses, am I overlooking anything?

01-02-2018, 12:56 AM	#3 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,235 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214100	After experiencing some fortune coilovers on another platform and what I heard about them from local drivers, I can't recommend them enough at the sub $2000 price point Get the swift spring upgrades on the 510 series The spl stuff, get it all at once. One install, one alignment Rusty and Brendan like this. __________________ OptionZero Build Thread

01-02-2018, 01:15 PM	#5 (permalink)
MAMotorsports Track Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Glen Arm, MD Posts: 872 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 17	I would recommend looking into Stance Coilovers, not only are they a solid option. They are headquartered not to far from you in Wheeling, IL. With their XR1 line up being in your budget and the local support to me it would be a no brainier! For your other questions, you will want to have the toe bolts to be able to get the most out of the alignment even at that height. Front camber arms are not needed, but they help with getting the car dialed into your driving style. If you have any questions at all shoot us a call at 410.593.7080 -Daelen __________________ Daelen @ MA Motorsports MA-Motorsports.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/MA-Mo...C/125379858828

01-02-2018, 09:08 PM	#6 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,220 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	First. Get plenty of face time with the windshield at the track before doing major up-grades. This way you will have a feeling in what you need and want. Going down this rabbit hole will get $$$$$$$$ Dumping money into this before hitting the track can and will be $$$$$$ if you guess wrong on what you need. Before hitting the track. Things to do. Bleed your brakes with good brake fluid. Use at least Motul 600. Oil cooler. Get a 34 row. People will tell that you don't need that much. But as your speed increases at the track. The hotter the engine will be. Do it once and be done. If you have a manual. Wrap your clutch line down be the drivers side header with insulation. This will help keep the fluid from boiling. And keep the reservoir full. Same with the brake reservoir. . NVSTR likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

01-02-2018, 09:30 PM	#7 (permalink)
370Chicago Base Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Chicago Posts: 56 Drives: '15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 9	Thank you all for the input! Rusty, I've been tracking the car for about a year and a half. The 34 row was the first thing done! I'm not sure if this is accurate, but I was told the larger one was all that would actually fit on the Nismo. I also went with Motul 600, but I did not wrap the clutch line, I'll have to put that on the list! @OptionZero, I was looking at your set up and see that you went with an OEM style rear, with SPL rear mid links. Mind me asking why you went this route as opposed to a true rear? I'm weighing the options and a true rear would give me an extra $500 to spend on coils (as the rear mid link is about $500 more than toe arms), but I'm also nervous about the strut tower deforming. Rusty likes this.

01-01-2018, 10:14 PM	#2 (permalink)
Brendan Track Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Colorado Posts: 642 Drives: Poor man's Porsche Rep Power: 542	I think it would be a good idea to buy the front and rear camber kit at the same time if you plan on driving the car on a track. I would also recommend reading up on the track day best practices thread. Good luck and have fun

01-02-2018, 10:00 AM	#4 (permalink)
PharmDZ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: New Jersey Posts: 997 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z BS M6 Rep Power: 14	If you get the BC's may as well do the swift upgrade from the start. Wasting money/time otherwise. That's what I did with mine (BC DR's with custom valving and 18K/14K swift springs).

01-02-2018, 09:42 PM	#8 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,220 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	Get the SPL upper control arms and a Hotchkis front sway bar. Set your front alignment to -2 camber, +7 caster, toe in 1/16". Rear camber -1.5 to -1.75, toe in 1/16". You'll still have good tire life on the street. Bam12m and Smokey Nagata like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

01-02-2018, 09:53 PM	#9 (permalink)
370Chicago Base Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Chicago Posts: 56 Drives: '15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 9	Your toe figures are total, right (still putting all these concepts together)?

01-02-2018, 11:37 PM	#11 (permalink)
Brendan Track Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Colorado Posts: 642 Drives: Poor man's Porsche Rep Power: 542	There really isn't any benefit in running a true coil over in the rear, unless you also plan on reinforcing the strut towers or you really want a 1:1 motion ratio in the rear for some reason.

01-03-2018, 01:42 AM	#12 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,235 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214100	Aragosta probably could make some true types if I asked, but I didn't see any advantage and there are potential structural issues with the strut tower mounting area which weren't designed for true type Probably fine in most cases but why **** around Brendan likes this. __________________ OptionZero Build Thread

01-03-2018, 02:56 PM	#13 (permalink)
240se Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: VA Posts: 260 Drives: Gunmetal 12' Rep Power: 12	370Chicago I'm interested in buying your Nismo springs if you decide to sell them.

01-03-2018, 03:36 PM	#14 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,220 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	I'm surprised that masseffect hasn't thrown his in yet. Hotrodz likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Wildest Track SetUp @ Vivid Racing!!!!!	vividracing	Tires/Wheels	14	01-09-2014 03:44 AM
Which is a better Track Setup?	scruffydog	Wheels & Tires	2	02-28-2013 08:58 PM
Track Setup for KW V3s	scruffydog	Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip	6	01-30-2013 03:29 PM
KW v3 track setup	Nism0370	Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip	17	01-30-2013 01:45 AM
Track Setup anyone? Volk Racing TE37SL "Black Edition"	SE	Tires/Wheels	4	10-22-2012 04:21 PM