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I tried to search around but couldnt find my exact question. I am sure it is out there, but I got tired of looking. I currently have swift springs, I
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#1 (permalink) |
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I tried to search around but couldnt find my exact question. I am sure it is out there, but I got tired of looking.
I currently have swift springs, I am about to get a set of fortune 500s from a friend. Can i just slap my swift springs on there with the install or do i need to send them in to fortune auto to revalve the shocks to match the rating of my springs? Dont know what rating my swift springs are but they are comfortable yet firm! Thanks for the help. |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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The rear doesn't really matter as far as fitment goes unless you have a true coilover setup (oem is divorced spring mount). The front needs to match length and spring I.D to the O.D of the strut to fit. If the length of the spring doesn't properly match then your preloads will be considerably off and this will ultimately change how the damper and spring work together.
So no you shouldn't. You are best off getting everything properly fitted up first before picking springs and determining the potential ride height you want and getting the proper springs to match that ride height. Of course you can try fitting everything up with current springs and see how it works out as you go, the car will most likely be around the same height as before, all things being equal. If it isn't up to your standards you can try again with something else. As far as damper valving is concerned, you may not need to change this as long as the total spring load is relatively the same for what you have and what it was tuned for. In essence, at a given height the total load on the spring should be close to the same for one spring versus another. You won't know this info unless you bench test the springs. When installing the dampers make sure they are set at full soft for both rebound and compression (bump) if they are separate. When adjusting the damper stiffer, if you happen to notice that the ride only gets harsher but still bottoms out or rolls too much, your springs may be too soft or you don't have enough preload. If your spring preload is already adjusted past 1 inch and the car is still too low or compressing too much, your springs are too soft. Finding out if the damper is too stiff or too soft is a fairly difficult analysis under normal conditions. Because the dampers have adjustable bypass rates that are capable of matching a plethora of spring rates, they'd need to be considerably too stiff or too soft to notice it not being acceptable for your car. Unless you change the weight of the vehicle considerably, you'd probably be fine with how it is currently setup. Also, unless the dampers are damaged or void of nitrogen pressure. Then you shouldn't have to change the valving. If you have to set the dampers over 75% stiff no matter what and they start to get soft quickly. Then they are probably too soft. If they are too stiff even before 50% stiffness and only seem to get harder over time, the valving is probably too stiff. The optimal damper setting should be around 40-60% adjustment. If for any reason it only works at either full soft or full stiff, then it is not setup right for your needs, or damaged. Last edited by MaysEffect; 12-25-2017 at 04:42 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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For notation-
Spring load and spring rates are completely different variables. The spring rate determines the spring load over a given distance compressed. The load factor is dependent on the total amount of weight the car will see at a given corner. This is an open variable dependent on the static corner load. The Oem specification is listed as the GVWR, the corner load is the axle load divided by 2. If you change to maximum spring load, you change this rating. |
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As usual, mays spends ten times the effort to answer a question that can be answered in a couple sentences. Do u ever stop and think about what you're doing? After the first sentence or so your post didn't answer jack, u went off about suspension theory like u always do. Answer his damn question.
The swifts for your oem suspsion are different than the swifts used by fortune as an upgrade option on their coilovers. Different length, width (fortune uses 60mm, at least in front and true type rears), and a higher rate. The coilover is valved to match. Pay fortune the $300 for the swift upgrade, they'll come installed. Sell your swift spec-r's. Done. Skip mays wall of text.
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Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa............................... ...........you can be a bit longggggggggggggg winded.
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Dude, the way this forum has gone in the last year he's not even talking to the guys who collect the shopping carts at the grocery store.
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I'm sure i answered all the questions. Sorry you don't like reading. The additional information was for future reference in case there's a problem.
Did Santa steal your cookies? Why you so mad . |
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I didn't have any objections about what you said. I was only teasing Ozero about his last statement.
The dampers don't need to be sent in to Fortune auto to have them retuned, they can be modified by several local shops if needed. Nor would it make any sense for him to send them back to Fortune just to get springs fitted when he can do it himself or by his installer. If a warranty fully covers these modifications, then sure, have them do it. Last edited by MaysEffect; 12-25-2017 at 04:35 PM. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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