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Camber elimination and general suspension recommendations?

I just got the Swifts and Fast Intentions exhaust installed ( video here ) and I love them both! But, still need to get wheel spacers (the ones I got

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Old 12-11-2017, 10:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Camber elimination and general suspension recommendations?

I just got the Swifts and Fast Intentions exhaust installed (video here) and I love them both!

But, still need to get wheel spacers (the ones I got didn't fit) and I'm wanting to tweak the rear suspension.

I was thinking something like this but looking for recommendations. I'd also REALLY like something to reduce wheel hop as my car wheel hops like a boss.

I just need it to put the power down better!!

Suspension suggestions, everyone?
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Old 12-11-2017, 01:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It cracks me up how, when it comes to go-faster bits like intakes, exhausts, turbos, etc, information is available in a "drinking from a fire hose" kind of way but suspension stuff?...

*crickets*

lol
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Old 12-11-2017, 01:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I mean you're on the right track. If you want to tweak the suspension you'll need camber and toe arms. I've (and tons of other people) decided to go go the full SPL route, but I've heard Z1's stuff is pretty good too. I've seen all the other components break under abuse. Z1's as well but apparently they fixed the issues. But I personally don't order from Z1 if I can help it so I did the full SPL arms from Corner3Motorsports who offered free shipping on it as well.

If you want toe adjustability with arms instead of the eccentric bolts you'll have to get a pretty price toe arm/spring bucket since you're on OEM style suspension.

I've gotten rid of the eccentrics with SPL's kit like many others have as well. But if you aren't getting into a ton of tracking and abuse on your parts, then Z1/spc arms and eccentric bolts will be fine. SPL arms are a no slip, no nonsense setup and are super beefy and light. Not to forget their extremely easy to adjust for alignment purposes.
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Old 12-11-2017, 01:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hmmm...definitely don't want suspension parts that will break. The SPL stuff is quite pricey compared to other parts I saw, but if it's the best, that's what I'll do. Don't want to be going around a corner or whatever and have a damn wheel break off or something...

I'm not opposed to buying from Z1 (why do you avoid them?) but I'll get whatever I get from Concept Z if possible as they're personal friends of mine (great guys!!) and they're local.

What SPL kit are you referring to? I don't see any kits by SPL. I do prefer to do it that way as opposed to piecing everything together separately, though. It's easier that way.

That being said, I'd like to keep as much stock (AKA comfortable) as I can...I just want to get rid of the wheel hop, dial the camber back some and it really needs to put the power down better. I went to the strip last week and my 60' times (2.5sec) would have been better if I were pushing it...lol

Thanks for the help, my friend!!
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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have you upgraded your motor/trans/diff mounts. Also what tires are you using?
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Motor/trans/diff mounts are stock. Don't think I've ever heard of anyone upgrading anything other than motor mounts before, and even that was more of a "I was there so I changed them" kind of thing than anything else. What's the benefit of changing those?

Tires are the factory sport tires. Potenzas, I believe? As soon as these are worn out, will be getting wider, stickier rubber back there.

Still need to get rid of some of the camber and all the wheel hop, though.

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have you upgraded your motor/trans/diff mounts. Also what tires are you using?
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by longlivethez View Post
Motor/trans/diff mounts are stock. Don't think I've ever heard of anyone upgrading anything other than motor mounts before, and even that was more of a "I was there so I changed them" kind of thing than anything else. What's the benefit of changing those?

Tires are the factory sport tires. Potenzas, I believe? As soon as these are worn out, will be getting wider, stickier rubber back there.

Still need to get rid of some of the camber and all the wheel hop, though.
The more you stiffen up the drivetrain, the better response it will have. Transmission mount is super easy to change out and will result in noticeably crisper shifts. Differential bushing can be a bit of a pain, but the stock one is garbage and assured to fail in short time under moderately hard driving. Driver side motor mount is a pain, but the upgrade will keep the engine more stable under load which in turn will transfer power to the drivetrain more efficiently.

Poly mounts are still a very good upgrade and probably the direction you want to go if NVH is a concern. If you don't care about noise/vibrations then go solid for the ultimate performance upgrade. The solid trans mount will increase NVH the most.

And get rid of those crappy stock tires. Get some Michelins that work best for your needs. PS4 or RE-71R seem to be the most popular.
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Nice, man. Thanks for the info...I'll look into it. Definitely not trying to make the thing super uncomfortable to drive as I actually quite like the way it rides now. The trans mount is interesting though. Will definitely check that out.

Yea, the stock tires are...ok...lol Just waiting until they need replaced, then it's on to something better.

Thanks, man!
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If you are getting wheel hop from acceleration, the problem is with you motor mounts and traction arm.

Camber is not the culprit. Although it is a problem because your car is lowered. Correcting it will help, but will not solve the wheel hop issue alone.

If you want to eliminate wheel hop, you'll need solid traction arms and motor mounts.

Solid bushings on the hub side will further reduce lateral* flex but will also increase NVH at higher speeds, certainly with worn tires. You will need to set the rear wheels as close to zero camber. You won't be able to do this unless you have highly adjustable arms for all the links (traction arm, toe arm & camber arm). Also it will limit tire clearance if you go to wide or put spacers on that are too big.

Last edited by MaysEffect; 12-12-2017 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yea, I'm not saying the camber is causing the hop...I'm just saying I don't want my car to look "stanced". lol

Thinking I'm going to get traction arms, to help with the hop, and camber arms to dial out some of the camber. I'll look into the bushings, too...probably going to go poly instead of solid though if I do get them as I don't want the car to ride like ****. :-P

Thanks for the info!!
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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SPL parts.

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Old 12-18-2017, 11:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The only way to go

EDIT: If you're going to purchase SPL, IPP and THMotorsports have the best prices on the forum.
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Old 12-19-2017, 09:17 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Buying the SPL Camber Arms (and maybe traction bars, too...) thursday while I'm at the tuner. :-D

Thanks, guys!!
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Old 12-19-2017, 10:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Eccentric rear toe bolts ok for street driven?
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Old 12-19-2017, 12:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by longlivethez View Post
Buying the SPL Camber Arms (and maybe traction bars, too...) thursday while I'm at the tuner. :-D

Thanks, guys!!
TBH, you might as well get all the stuff at once and do one install and alignment

traction rod
camber arm
mid link/toe arm
front upper control arm
eccentric lockout
tie rods

complete adjustability
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