Feedback request:Daily Driver complete suspension rebuild plan.

El Zombo

Hi,
I'm putting together a plan to rebuild the suspension on my daily driven 2014, MT, Z with the sports package. I'm the original owner, the car has 70K miles and it won't see the track...I just don't have time for the maintenance track driving requires. I like a firm ride and I've driven cars with poly bushings. I'm looking to improve OE performance and make the car handle better and more predictably.

Here's the plan:
Z1 Motorsports front upper control arms, traction and camber arms
Eibach Pro Kit 1" drop w/springs and sway bars
OE type front lower control arms with whiteline bushings
OE type rear upper control arms with whiteline bushings
Whiteline front and rear sway bar end links
Koni Yellows w/ OE type strut plate and shock bushings
Whiteline differential bushings
Eibach 15mm spacers x4

I might replace the LSD while this is happening, but that depends on funds.

Is there anything else in the suspension I need to replace? Do the rear lower control arms have inner and outer bushings as well? Should I replace the rear crossmember bushings as well?

Anyone done this?

Thanks, everyone.

Hector

Rusty

If you want to know what you are going into. Here are my 2 threads on replacing the suspension bushings with the SPL catalog.

The Complete SPL Front Suspension

The Complete SPL Rear Suspension (Almost)

As for replacing the rear sub-frame bushings. Believe you only have 2 choices. The solid SPL kit which replaces the bushing all together. And the Z1 kit which you install parts into the stock bushing. The Z1 kit is the one you want. It still has some flex in it unlike the SPL bushings.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

SS_Firehawk

I recommend doing the motor mounts, transmission mount, differential bushings, and Z1 subframe collars before touching your suspension bushings. The difference is big. Add performance oriented springs and you'll be in good shape.

__________________

MaysEffect

What tires do you plan on using?

Senna-F1

I don't recommend the Z1 front upper control arms. You may not even need them. If you do, they aren't adjustable once installed. So you basically hope that you get it right (camber and caster) before they go on. Its just not a good system. SPC came out with a different version of their FUCA's which are probably better for adjusting. I had Z1, now I have SPL FUCA's.

El Zombo

Thanks for the input. I didn't think about the motor and transmission mounts and I'd never even heard of those subframe collars. I watched the Z1 video and I'm impressed.

I'm going to use the Eibach springs. Are you suggesting those might not be a good match?

El Zombo

Do you commute in your car with solid bushings in it? I thought that would be super stiff.

El Zombo

Thank you. I'm glad someone else pointed that out. The Eibach rep I talked to said the same thing because the springs will lower the car less than an inch, but I thought I'd change them just in case they needed adjustment. I looked at the Z1 FUCA and compared it to the SPL part on the Z1 website. I see the issue you mentioned. You saved me a headache and I appreciate that.

I'll go with stock replacements. I'm still going to replace them but only because I'll have to pull them out to replace the bushings and I'll address the ball joint while I'm there.

El Zombo

Not sure yet, but a summer specific tread in the stock size. What's up?

YYZ

rear toe bolts.

__________________
BORLA-SPC-EIBACH-HOTCHKIS

SS_Firehawk

Eibach springs are good. They're not just lowering springs, and actually give a performance benefit. I have Swift springs, which are a bit stiffer and drop just a bit lower. If you can find some Nismo take off parts (dampers, springs [little to no drop], sway bars), those are usually a nice upgrade for a small price too.

__________________

Rusty

I have taken the Z on a couple of long trips with no issues. Actually, it's not stiff. The stock rubber bushing bind the travel movement. For example, if you remove the front coil-over. With the stock rubber bushings. The spindle will stay put at about mid travel, and it's hard to move up and down. With the SPL bearings. The spindle will fall on it's own weight. You can pick it up and down with no problems. The SPL bearings make the suspension more responsive. They will increase the noise and vibes some what.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

El Zombo

Thank you all for the feedback.

I'm unsure how many bushings are on the rear knuckle side and if anyone makes poly replacements. Does this look like a complete list of replaceable bushings?

Front upper control arms inner
Front lower control arms inner
Front sway bar
Front sway bar endlinks
Front upper strut plate
Engine mounts
Tranny mounts
Differential lower and center
Rear subframe bushings
Rear upper control arms
Traction arms forward bushing
Camber arms forward bushing
Rear lower control arm inner
Rear sway bar
Rear sway bar endlink bushings

How many are on the rear knuckle? Do the traction, camber arms and lower control arm have rubber bushings on the knuckle side?

thanks!

-H

Rusty

There is 4 bushings on each rear knuckle. Traction arm, camber arm, mid link and lower shock. You have to remove the knuckle to replace the bushings. The mid link, traction and camber arms have no bushings on the side that mounts to the knuckle. They mount to the bushings in the knuckle.

Upgraded Rear Knuckle Bushings for 370Z and G37 | SPL Parts

There is no strut plate.

Chances are that you will have to drop the sub-frame to get to the rear upper arms. I haven't replaced those yet. That's an after Christmas project.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

El Zombo

Rusty,

Thanks, man. I appreciate the replies and info. When I get all of this together I'll post the rebuild.

I thought for sure there was an upper strut plate with the studs that go through the strut tower? Am I getting the nomenclature wrong?