Uneven tire tread wear LR tire?

OptionZero

ok, this is stupid

What suspension control arms are you using?

Is the alignment tech at "Nissan" familiar with adjustable suspension arms?

It seems like you're not TRYING to run -6 or whatever camber, so if you have that adjustability and still have a ****** up suspension, the problem MUST be:

1) You're using some low quality suspension arms or something is defective

or

2) Your alignment tech is incompetent and doesn't know how to adjust adjustable components

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OptionZero Build Thread

2011 Nismo#91

He wants to run that or more but he doesn't know why his tire is wearing out so fast because his prior experiences the tires lasted much longer.

It's like comparing apples to oranges and asking why they are different.
Different car different tires give different results.

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AstatenateZ

A buddy of mine with the same one’s ordered mine on the invoice I just had price. They were $220 shipped. Which is about how much SPC (little cheaper) & SPL ‘s go for. They seem very durable and well built. Beefy metal. Beefy hardware and I’ve checked them. I’m also running SPL toe bolts. They camber arms are not bent, loose locking nuts or anything. I lubed the bushings last night and I heard the squeaking noise was normal on most all aftermarket camber arms. So the squeak went away and all appears fine with the camber arms.

But yes you’re correct. I just got the wheels to fender fitment where I wanted it. I could go a little bit more positive and still have good fitment and be okay with it. Yes the Nissan tech (a good friend of mine) has a lowered 240 and is familiar with adjustable camber arms, and other components. So if the tech is competent and knows how to properly adjust it (its adjusted all the way positive as it can and still at -5.3 / -5.4) does that mean camber arms failure? Or do I just need to just put OEM ones back on and see how it sits and get realigned?

AstatenateZ

Well that’s why I asked! I mean if that’s normal okay then I guess. Just haven’t had an issue like that before and we’re talking 4-5 other stanced cars. That had way more than -6 ... same tires on all cars just different sizes. I just have never seen one side wear that significantly more. I’ve seen rear tires wear more than fronts and vice versa but never left rear wear more than right rear.

MaysEffect

Only thing i can suggest now is get adjustable swaybar end links if you don't already and get the car properly corner balanced.

-ZS-Carpenter

eccentric bolts replaced with a lockout kit?

Rusty

When I worked at Goodyear years ago. One of the things that I've seen. When a tire starts to wear in a pattern. It will continue to wear that way even when corrections are made. So, get your alignment checked, and turn the tires around on the rims. The outside to the inside. That's the cheap thing to do. The other is to get new tires after the alignment check.

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AstatenateZ

No, just swapped out oe eccentric toe bolts with SPL bolts and camber arms came with new eccentric bolts. Is that an issue? Never had to buy a lockout kit before. What’s the benefits to a lockout kit? Are we talking for the toe bolt or for the actual bolt on the camber arm closer to wheel?

Yeah already ahead of you! I got car up on stands right now. Checking camber arms. They’re perfectly fine. Everything tight. They have regreaseable metal bushings so I definitely wanna keep them on over putting the stock rubber bushing ones back on. These seem a lot more sturdy. Definitely going to have my guy at Nissan flip tire (I’m used to that “stance” life haha) and re align it. Or I guess just double check. If alignments not out (as it was just done 3 months ago) then I’ll just flip tire and take it easy til spring (only a few months of winter here in the south so no big deal)


Only other thing I can think of is, I had a nail in that tire a month after I got it. I caught it as soon as it happened, had it professionally patched and checked the psi regularly for the first month or so. Was always at 35-38psi as it is now. Only thing I could think is maybe when the tire had a nail it dropped psi but I never noticed the tread wear when I had the patch put on. So doubtful.

-ZS-Carpenter

Eccentric bolts can move. My guess is that one rolled.

more info here
https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...t-p-11977.html

AstatenateZ

IM SORRY FOR THE CONFUSION GUYS. I HAVE ADJUSTABLE CAMBER BOLTS (essentric) AND CAMBER ARMS. MY SPRING BASKET & TOE BOLTS ARE OEM! And on the alignment rack my toe went into spec just fine. My camber is the only issue I had (which I didn’t care about the -6) that’s not my issue. I get -6 is gonna eat tires up. But 1500 miles? Nah never had that happen and never just one side. My camber arms like stated above are in perfectly good condition, the speherical bearing on the left side moves freely back n forth but it looks like it should. The one on the right doesn’t.

So my factory toe essentric bolt went into alignment specs just fine and appear to be fine now. My camber arms and camber bolts are all that’s aftermarket on suspension besides coilovers. So I with that in mind. What could it be? Toe bolts go into spec and we’re fine 3 months ago on alignment. Camber arms is what was squeaking coming from the speherical bearing and I greased them and fixed that. Also I noticed camber arm sperhical bearing has play on left side (worn tire side) but not on right side. Is that a problem? Camber bolts are also aftermarket (SPL) but when I got on alignment rack we didn’t adjust camber at all. Only toe front and rear. Like I said. I’m okay with -3 up front and almost -6 rear. I know that doesn’t eat up tires in 1500 miles. I know toe is what eats it up. My camber still appears to be identical on both sides. My toe however I can’t eyeball even with string it looks fine on both sides and is what I’m assuming came out of alignment. Big bump cause that? Toe bolt faulty on left side? Any ideas? Or will I not know until I get it on alignment rack?

Rusty

Spherical bearings are suppose to be tight. No play. If you have play on the left side. Everytime it moves. It's changing your camber AND toe.

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AstatenateZ

So that would be my problem then? The spherical bearing in the camber arm has play in it. Also that is the side where the tire wore out. Cause my camber arms and camber bolts are the only thing on the alignment part of suspension that’s aftermarket. I have OEM toe bolts and spring basket (my toe went into alignment just fine without aftermarket toe bolts, so no need for aftermarket toe bolts) so if I swap my OEM camber arms back in and keep my SPL camber bolts. That should eliminate my problem? and I’ll just need another alignment this week and probably just one tire. Lol but I won’t have to worry about my toe or camber adjusting itself every time that beating moves. I’ll just have to worry about the OEM Rubber bushings wearing out and replacing like normal?

MaysEffect

I don't think so. If it was a problem, you'd have tire scarring and marks. Also maybe a lot of wobbling and severe clacking noises at highway speeds.

To be fair, your toe is not ideal. Having the camber set so aggressively is actually masking this problem. It should be lower than .1 degrees. Preferably toe'd in. Adding toe in will also increase negative camber though

Rusty

Not really. I've seen loose spherical bearings make no noise at all. His could be in the beginning stages. So not a lot of wobbling.

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zguynate

I'm unsure if this has been mentioned yet, but what kind of diff do you have? If you have a base model/open diff that could be your issue. One tire fire on that kind of camber can quickly eat at your tread in any kind of aggressive driving. Also, if you have a VLSD it could be worn out and functioning as an open diff. How many miles are on your car?


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