I did the full metal bushings in the subframe and monoball everything in the spindle on my S14. it was rad

but

a pain in the *** to get everything done

I bought a spare subframe, lit the rubber bushings on fire, pounded them out. That was fun. needed a shop to get all the bushings out of the z32 spindle and swap in sphericals. powder coated everything. so much time/$$$

but in the end the car was solid as F. Noisy as hell on the street, felt EVERY bump

When I get that far with the Z i'd probably get an LSD at the same time while dropping everything, so now thats a huge job

but it was rad

The only suspension pieces that SPL doesn't make is the bushings for the rear upper arms that mounts to the rear sub-frame and the knuckle at the top. If they made them. I would have them. To do those. You would have to drop the sub-frame to get to them.

I thought they made those, did they discontinue it???

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I missed those.Thought I had everything. :shakes head: I'm going to have to get them.

SPL FKS Rear Upper Arm Monoball Bushing Set 350Z/370Z/G35/G37

Got my rear upper control bearings. Wondering if I have to drop the sub-frame or not.

Up-date. Installed the upper rear control arms bushings from SPL. Did it with out dropping the rear sub-frame. Remove the tires. Remove the axles. This helps in giving you more room to work with. Axles ain't hard to remove.

1st pic. The 2 bolts that you have to remove. The front bolt, you can get to it from the wheel opening. The rear bolt, you have to get to it from under. Remove these after, removing the nut on the ball joint stud.

2nd pic. The ball joint stud nut. With the axle gone. It's easy to get to the cotter key on the stud, and the nut.

3rd pic. With the nut removed. The arm pops up.

1st pic. Arm removed and sitting on the bench.

2nd pic. This is a rubber spacer that you no longer need. It's on the front bushing.

3rd pic. Hole saw. 1 1/4" or 32mm. You need this to cut out the bushing center.

4th pic. Center the hole saw on the bushing. The hole saw will cut the rubber and some of the aluminum on the outer sleeve. Be careful. You want it to go straight, if not not. It will cut the arm it's self.

1st pic. This is what the arm looks like after you cut out the center.

2nd pic. The center in the hole saw.

3rd pic. Use a hack saw blade and put 2 notches, 90 degrees apart, in the remaining bushing shell.

4th pic. Use a hammer and punch to knock out out the shell.

5th pic. Got too close the arm when cutting. :eek: Didn't touch the arm.

6th pic. The cut out center section.

1st pic. The rear SPL bushings.

2nd pic. Using a ball joint press to press in the bushing.

3rd pic. The bushing installed. Showing the flange side.

4th pic. The snap ring installed.

5th pic. This pic shows that the bushing gets installed from the beveled side of the hole.

1st and 2nd pic. Completed arms.

3rd and 4th. Arms installed.

Time about 5 hrs.

Look at all these beauty SPL parts. :tup:

Wow very nice, I can't wait for mine to be done.

Another installment of this thread. :icon17:

This time, it's the SPL Midlink Bushings. These are the ones that replace the bushings at the adjustment point on the lower arm that has the spring bucket.

1st pic is the bushing i'm replacing.

2nd pic of the lower arm.

3rd pic is the arm off. to remove the arm. Place jack under the spring bucket of the arm and apply some pressure. Not much.Remove the bolt at the knuckle first. Lower jack down and remove the spring. Next remove the adjusting bolt. Remove arm.

1st pic is the new SPL bushing and the stock bushings.

2nd and 3rd pic's. Using a 1 1/4" hole saw. Cut out the middle of the stock bushing.

4th and 5th pic's. Use a hack saw blade to cut 2 relive cuts in the shell of the stock bushing. Be CAREFUL not to cut into the arm itself. Not a good idea.

6th pic. I used a small chisel and hammer to remove the remains of the stock bushing. After this. Use a round file to remove any burrs around the hole and in it.

Here is where is install goes south in a hurry. This is the first time I have run into this issue with SPL parts. I measured the diameter of the bushings. Both at 1.492". Then I measured the ID of the holes in the arms. 1.421" for both. :eek:That's 0.071" differences. :eek: Should have anywhere from 0.001" to 0,003" difference. So now I have to call SPL on Monday and tell them. So that they can ship me new bushings with the proper OD's.