FL caliper won't bleed
 

searched around and the only thread i found was this one
http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...iper-help.html

and both of the bleeders are clear.

I replaced pads rotors and lines (Z1 kit) and started bleeding the brakes with a motive bleeder. Everything was fine until i got to the front left. No fluid coming out of the bleeders. Pulled both bleeders to check for blockage, both are clear. I have fluid at the end of the brake line but nothing coming out of the bleeders even with the bleeders removed from the caliper.

Anything i might have overlooked or screwed up? The other 3 corners worked great. Rebuild time?

Did the reservoir go dry at any time during the bleeding of the other 3 calipers?

Bleed the old fashion way by pumping the brake pedal 3 times and hold down. Then crack the inner bleeder open. See if any fluid comes out.

Reservoir never went dry.
I will try the old school way tomorrow and report back

When you do it. Put a clear plastic hose over the bleeder, and the other end into a bottle. When the fluid starts coming out. You can see the air bubbles in the fluid. Pump 3 times, hold down, open bleeder, keep pressure on pedal until it goes to the floor, close the bleeder. Repeat until the fluid has no bubbles in it. Keep an eye on the reservoir so that it does go dry.

You be surprise at the number of people who lift off the brake pedal before closing the bleeder. :eek: :shakes head: :rofl2: If you do that. You're sucking air back in. And they wonder why they have problems bleeding. :rofl2:

I'm using a Motive power bleeder with catch bottles. Fluid is just not getting through the one caliper for some reason.

Crack the brake line at the caliper and see if you have anything there.

Just FYI, the Front Left caliper is actually the 2nd in the series, not the 4th. This is according to the service manual. Im about to use my motive as well. How's the pressure in the bottle, maybe it needs a bit more to get through the ABS? 15 psi? Also, manual states to Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit) connector or the battery negative terminal before performing the work... in case its an ABS issue.

I said that in the first post



always keep the bottle pressure at 15~. If it was not pushing through the ABS actuator i would not have fluid at the end of the line.

I'm going to see if i can squeeze anything trough it manually tonight. I got rebuild kits on the way just incase

and what page in the FSM is that on. I downloaded one from here with no index and 5000 pages or so. I can't find **** in that mess

Many PDF readers have a "search all docs in folder" function. Put all the FSM PDFs in a folder and tell your reader to search that folder.

I get my PDFs from https://carmanuals2.com/brand/nissan


Try BR-12 step 6. There are a few places I think it’s mentioned. They also distinguish between sport and non-sport brakes so make sure you’re reading the correct section.

Which way are the bleeder screws facing? They should be facing up, not down. If they are facing down, you have the caliper on the wrong side. I have seen this happen before, no kidding.

Does the brake even work on that wheel? ie with the pressure bleeder at 15psi, can you rotate the wheel by hand?

How about when an assistant is standing on the brake pedal?