Suggestion for rotors?

Fren_Z · 10-02-2017, 06:03 PM

I need to buy rotors and was looking up what's out there other than oem. I'm looking at slotted and possibly cryo treated.
Has anyone had experience with cryo treated rotors and if it's worth the extra? I've heard they get twice the life and don't warp.

Thaaaaaanks

Ventruck · 10-02-2017, 08:19 PM

Not sure what your driving is, but as a daily driver myself I use Z1's slotted rotors with Centric Posi-quiet pads. Feel very similar to OEM. Difference is that the pads don't junk up the rotors after like two high speed braking trials.

Rusty · 10-02-2017, 10:21 PM

Z1 rotors. If you're a baller. 2 piece Racing Brake.

OptionZero · 10-03-2017, 12:14 AM

If you're just daily driving and looking for longevity, i'm not sure there's a better value than OEM blanks from your local parts store

There's all sorts of options, out there. Like rusty said, 2 pcs rotors are great, but . . . for bumming around town, overkill

Track? Sure

Justint5387 · 10-03-2017, 02:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Z1 rotors. If you're a baller. 2 piece Racing Brake.

What's the difference between RB and Z1? Is it a lot lighter?

Fren_Z · 10-03-2017, 02:42 AM

I'm looking for longer life for the most part I guess. I drive it every other day. I did check out Z1. Was just gonna see if there are other opinions. Not a baller, but I'd spend the little extra for good quality.

Thanks for the tips!

Rusty · 10-03-2017, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Justint5387

What's the difference between RB and Z1? Is it a lot lighter?

The Racing Brake are more for track use. And are more $$. They was out before the 2 piece Z1 rotors. The rotors on the RB are of a different grade of cast iron than other rotors. So you have to watch your pad choice.

2011 Nismo#91 · 10-03-2017, 11:31 AM

Standard blanks. They work well for street driving and are inexpensive. The cost savings far out ways anything that higher priced "long life" rotors offer.

B&W_Evader · 10-04-2017, 06:24 PM

I would recommend the hi carbon version. I believe they helped me get around 30% more life from my XP8 pads. They're only $2 more than the standard blanks at tire rack. Don't think you can go wrong with that little upgrade. I'll probably go with them again once I go through my Z1 slotted rotors.

DOOMMONKEY777 · 10-05-2017, 04:13 PM

I would recommend Stop Tech slotted rotors, they are one piece rotors, which means they are a bit heavier than 2 piece rotors, but braking is pretty much the same, if you buy a package they might come with free brake pads.

BTW all rotors warp, it all depends on proper braking.

I have installed these on my Z all around and immediately felt the OEM vs StopTech difference in braking, its VERY noticeable.

OptionZero · 10-05-2017, 05:45 PM

you may need to get your butt recalibrated

slotted rotors don't cause you to brake any harder/faster. I mean, just think of the physics. The brake caliper/pad and rotor haven't changed size, the MC is pumping the same amount of fluid so the pressure is the same. why the hell would brake force in crease because the rotors have some slots cut into them?

the slots are for cooling, so its an endurance thing more than a brake force thing

and this dude is just bumming around the street, why the hell would he need slotted rotors? blanks are the best solution for his needs

DOOMMONKEY777 · 10-05-2017, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero

you may need to get your butt recalibrated

slotted rotors don't cause you to brake any harder/faster. I mean, just think of the physics. The brake caliper/pad and rotor haven't changed size, the MC is pumping the same amount of fluid so the pressure is the same. why the hell would brake force in crease because the rotors have some slots cut into them?

the slots are for cooling, so its an endurance thing more than a brake force thing

and this dude is just bumming around the street, why the hell would he need slotted rotors? blanks are the best solution for his needs

I see that some ppl think differently sooo lets watch This video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78wbht355R8 to pick out the best rotor shall we...

Rusty · 10-05-2017, 08:05 PM

We have a bunch of variables here.

Vented and non vented. We have vented.

Next is blank, drilled, slotted, drilled and slotted. Blank and the slotted are good for the track. Drilled, drilled and slotted are for looks on the street. Should not use them on the track because of the chance of cracking at the drill holes. The idea behind the drilled and the slotted rotors are to out gas the pads. Pads used to give off gas as they got hot. This lead to race teams to drill the rotors to help with braking. The pads now no longer need this.

Rotor material. There is different types of cast iron used in making rotors. From powder iron (cheap to make), to high grade gray iron ($$$). With some rotors. You have to watch what pads you use with some rotors because of the type of iron used.

The last variable. One piece vs 2 piece rotors. 2 piece rotors are more $$$. If you are racing or heavy into trackdays. They make sense. Or you are looking for the racecar looks. 1 piece rotors are cheaper, and easier to get. Last just as long as 2 piece.

Just my view on the subject.

OptionZero · 10-05-2017, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOOMMONKEY777

I see that some ppl think differently sooo lets watch This video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78wbht355R8 to pick out the best rotor shall we...

That video didn't address ****, it's all general stuff most car folks should already know

1) you said that switching from stock to slotted rotors noticeably increased ur braking power. Slotted rotors dont do that. If noticed a change in braking force, it isn't due to a difference factor. U either changed other parts, or ur existing brakes were shot and simply going to new rotors, and I'm guess new PADS as well simply restored what was lost

2). The advantage of rotors is heat disappation, I supposed whatever value from cleaning" the pad that dude talked about in the vid. These things matter when braking REPEATEDLY, like on a track or hard driving conditions

The DISADVANTAGE is decreased pad life

This thread starter is not track driving and is LESS wear. So ur slotted suggestion does the opposite of what ur suggestion brings

OptionZero · 10-05-2017, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

We have a bunch of variables here.

Vented and non vented. We have vented.

Next is blank, drilled, slotted, drilled and slotted. Blank and the slotted are good for the track. Drilled, drilled and slotted are for looks on the street. Should not use them on the track because of the chance of cracking at the drill holes. The idea behind the drilled and the slotted rotors are to out gas the pads. Pads used to give off gas as they got hot. This lead to race teams to drill the rotors to help with braking. The pads now no longer need this.

Rotor material. There is different types of cast iron used in making rotors. From powder iron (cheap to make), to high grade gray iron ($$$). With some rotors. You have to watch what pads you use with some rotors because of the type of iron used.

The last variable. One piece vs 2 piece rotors. 2 piece rotors are more $$$. If you are racing or heavy into trackdays. They make sense. Or you are looking for the racecar looks. 1 piece rotors are cheaper, and easier to get. Last just as long as 2 piece.

Just my view on the subject.

Isn't there one more variable, such as how the "drilled" holes are achieved?

High end mfg cast their rotors with holes , where as cheaper options literally drill holes in blanks, which causes structural weakness

Is that right, or an old wives tale?

Anyways I'd never use anything but blankets on the street, just pointless to do anything else. Doing any track I'd stop ******* around and jump to 2pc and more aggressive pads

10-02-2017, 06:03 PM	#1 (permalink)
Fren_Z Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Illinois Posts: 72 Drives: 2014 370Z nismo Rep Power: 8	Suggestion for rotors? I need to buy rotors and was looking up what's out there other than oem. I'm looking at slotted and possibly cryo treated. Has anyone had experience with cryo treated rotors and if it's worth the extra? I've heard they get twice the life and don't warp. Thaaaaaanks

10-02-2017, 08:19 PM	#2 (permalink)
Ventruck Track Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: California Posts: 785 Drives: '13 Sport+Touring M6 Rep Power: 22898	Not sure what your driving is, but as a daily driver myself I use Z1's slotted rotors with Centric Posi-quiet pads. Feel very similar to OEM. Difference is that the pads don't junk up the rotors after like two high speed braking trials. onzedge and Fren_Z like this.

10-02-2017, 10:21 PM	#3 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,217 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	Z1 rotors. If you're a baller. 2 piece Racing Brake. onzedge and Hotrodz like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

10-03-2017, 12:14 AM	#4 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,235 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214100	If you're just daily driving and looking for longevity, i'm not sure there's a better value than OEM blanks from your local parts store There's all sorts of options, out there. Like rusty said, 2 pcs rotors are great, but . . . for bumming around town, overkill Track? Sure Chuck33079 and Jayhovah like this. __________________ OptionZero Build Thread

10-03-2017, 11:31 AM	#8 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,401 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40569	Standard blanks. They work well for street driving and are inexpensive. The cost savings far out ways anything that higher priced "long life" rotors offer. Chuck33079, Hotrodz, Jayhovah and 1 others like this. __________________ GTR TT 493Whp/431lbft, Ecutek, Southbend 6puck,Quaife, RPM RollBar 4Point, R888R, JRZ RSPro F(10R/10C) R(10R/6C) 1000f500r inlbs+150inlbs Tender, SPL everywhere.Full Specs

10-03-2017, 02:42 AM	#6 (permalink)
Fren_Z Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Illinois Posts: 72 Drives: 2014 370Z nismo Rep Power: 8	I'm looking for longer life for the most part I guess. I drive it every other day. I did check out Z1. Was just gonna see if there are other opinions. Not a baller, but I'd spend the little extra for good quality. Thanks for the tips!

10-04-2017, 06:24 PM	#9 (permalink)
B&W_Evader Track Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: CA Posts: 972 Drives: slower than before Rep Power: 387	I would recommend the hi carbon version. I believe they helped me get around 30% more life from my XP8 pads. They're only $2 more than the standard blanks at tire rack. Don't think you can go wrong with that little upgrade. I'll probably go with them again once I go through my Z1 slotted rotors. Jimbo370 and Fren_Z like this. __________________ \|RIP\|6spd-sport\|OSG-LSD\|XP8\|RBF600\|Eibach Sways\|RE-71R\|FI-34Row\|Gen3-CAI\|Yaw P.S.\|

10-05-2017, 04:13 PM	#10 (permalink)
DOOMMONKEY777 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Crooklyn Posts: 1,008 Drives: 370Z 6psd-sport-pkg Rep Power: 21	I would recommend Stop Tech slotted rotors, they are one piece rotors, which means they are a bit heavier than 2 piece rotors, but braking is pretty much the same, if you buy a package they might come with free brake pads. BTW all rotors warp, it all depends on proper braking. I have installed these on my Z all around and immediately felt the OEM vs StopTech difference in braking, its VERY noticeable. __________________ Kids don't do Drugs, Drugs are bad, so let the professional druggies do Drugs for you. 537whp/496lb/tq@8-9PSI 93 octane

10-05-2017, 05:45 PM	#11 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,235 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214100	you may need to get your butt recalibrated slotted rotors don't cause you to brake any harder/faster. I mean, just think of the physics. The brake caliper/pad and rotor haven't changed size, the MC is pumping the same amount of fluid so the pressure is the same. why the hell would brake force in crease because the rotors have some slots cut into them? the slots are for cooling, so its an endurance thing more than a brake force thing and this dude is just bumming around the street, why the hell would he need slotted rotors? blanks are the best solution for his needs wideglideleon likes this. __________________ OptionZero Build Thread

10-05-2017, 08:05 PM	#13 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,217 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	We have a bunch of variables here. Vented and non vented. We have vented. Next is blank, drilled, slotted, drilled and slotted. Blank and the slotted are good for the track. Drilled, drilled and slotted are for looks on the street. Should not use them on the track because of the chance of cracking at the drill holes. The idea behind the drilled and the slotted rotors are to out gas the pads. Pads used to give off gas as they got hot. This lead to race teams to drill the rotors to help with braking. The pads now no longer need this. Rotor material. There is different types of cast iron used in making rotors. From powder iron (cheap to make), to high grade gray iron ($$$). With some rotors. You have to watch what pads you use with some rotors because of the type of iron used. The last variable. One piece vs 2 piece rotors. 2 piece rotors are more $$$. If you are racing or heavy into trackdays. They make sense. Or you are looking for the racecar looks. 1 piece rotors are cheaper, and easier to get. Last just as long as 2 piece. Just my view on the subject. 2011 Nismo#91 likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

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