Suggestion for rotors?

Fren_Z · 10-02-2017, 05:03 PM

I need to buy rotors and was looking up what's out there other than oem. I'm looking at slotted and possibly cryo treated.
Has anyone had experience with cryo treated rotors and if it's worth the extra? I've heard they get twice the life and don't warp.

Thaaaaaanks

Ventruck · 10-02-2017, 07:19 PM

Not sure what your driving is, but as a daily driver myself I use Z1's slotted rotors with Centric Posi-quiet pads. Feel very similar to OEM. Difference is that the pads don't junk up the rotors after like two high speed braking trials.

Rusty · 10-02-2017, 09:21 PM

Z1 rotors. If you're a baller. 2 piece Racing Brake.

Justint5387 · 10-03-2017, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Z1 rotors. If you're a baller. 2 piece Racing Brake.

What's the difference between RB and Z1? Is it a lot lighter?

Rusty · 10-03-2017, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Justint5387

What's the difference between RB and Z1? Is it a lot lighter?

The Racing Brake are more for track use. And are more $$. They was out before the 2 piece Z1 rotors. The rotors on the RB are of a different grade of cast iron than other rotors. So you have to watch your pad choice.

OptionZero · 10-02-2017, 11:14 PM

If you're just daily driving and looking for longevity, i'm not sure there's a better value than OEM blanks from your local parts store

There's all sorts of options, out there. Like rusty said, 2 pcs rotors are great, but . . . for bumming around town, overkill

Track? Sure

Fren_Z · 10-03-2017, 01:42 AM

I'm looking for longer life for the most part I guess. I drive it every other day. I did check out Z1. Was just gonna see if there are other opinions. Not a baller, but I'd spend the little extra for good quality.

Thanks for the tips!

2011 Nismo#91 · 10-03-2017, 10:31 AM

Standard blanks. They work well for street driving and are inexpensive. The cost savings far out ways anything that higher priced "long life" rotors offer.

B&W_Evader · 10-04-2017, 05:24 PM

I would recommend the hi carbon version. I believe they helped me get around 30% more life from my XP8 pads. They're only $2 more than the standard blanks at tire rack. Don't think you can go wrong with that little upgrade. I'll probably go with them again once I go through my Z1 slotted rotors.

DOOMMONKEY777 · 10-05-2017, 03:13 PM

I would recommend Stop Tech slotted rotors, they are one piece rotors, which means they are a bit heavier than 2 piece rotors, but braking is pretty much the same, if you buy a package they might come with free brake pads.

BTW all rotors warp, it all depends on proper braking.

I have installed these on my Z all around and immediately felt the OEM vs StopTech difference in braking, its VERY noticeable.

OptionZero · 10-05-2017, 04:45 PM

you may need to get your butt recalibrated

slotted rotors don't cause you to brake any harder/faster. I mean, just think of the physics. The brake caliper/pad and rotor haven't changed size, the MC is pumping the same amount of fluid so the pressure is the same. why the hell would brake force in crease because the rotors have some slots cut into them?

the slots are for cooling, so its an endurance thing more than a brake force thing

and this dude is just bumming around the street, why the hell would he need slotted rotors? blanks are the best solution for his needs

DOOMMONKEY777 · 10-05-2017, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero

you may need to get your butt recalibrated

slotted rotors don't cause you to brake any harder/faster. I mean, just think of the physics. The brake caliper/pad and rotor haven't changed size, the MC is pumping the same amount of fluid so the pressure is the same. why the hell would brake force in crease because the rotors have some slots cut into them?

the slots are for cooling, so its an endurance thing more than a brake force thing

and this dude is just bumming around the street, why the hell would he need slotted rotors? blanks are the best solution for his needs

I see that some ppl think differently sooo lets watch This video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78wbht355R8 to pick out the best rotor shall we...

Rusty · 10-05-2017, 07:05 PM

We have a bunch of variables here.

Vented and non vented. We have vented.

Next is blank, drilled, slotted, drilled and slotted. Blank and the slotted are good for the track. Drilled, drilled and slotted are for looks on the street. Should not use them on the track because of the chance of cracking at the drill holes. The idea behind the drilled and the slotted rotors are to out gas the pads. Pads used to give off gas as they got hot. This lead to race teams to drill the rotors to help with braking. The pads now no longer need this.

Rotor material. There is different types of cast iron used in making rotors. From powder iron (cheap to make), to high grade gray iron ($$$). With some rotors. You have to watch what pads you use with some rotors because of the type of iron used.

The last variable. One piece vs 2 piece rotors. 2 piece rotors are more $$$. If you are racing or heavy into trackdays. They make sense. Or you are looking for the racecar looks. 1 piece rotors are cheaper, and easier to get. Last just as long as 2 piece.

Just my view on the subject.

OptionZero · 10-05-2017, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

We have a bunch of variables here.

Vented and non vented. We have vented.

Next is blank, drilled, slotted, drilled and slotted. Blank and the slotted are good for the track. Drilled, drilled and slotted are for looks on the street. Should not use them on the track because of the chance of cracking at the drill holes. The idea behind the drilled and the slotted rotors are to out gas the pads. Pads used to give off gas as they got hot. This lead to race teams to drill the rotors to help with braking. The pads now no longer need this.

Rotor material. There is different types of cast iron used in making rotors. From powder iron (cheap to make), to high grade gray iron ($$$). With some rotors. You have to watch what pads you use with some rotors because of the type of iron used.

The last variable. One piece vs 2 piece rotors. 2 piece rotors are more $$$. If you are racing or heavy into trackdays. They make sense. Or you are looking for the racecar looks. 1 piece rotors are cheaper, and easier to get. Last just as long as 2 piece.

Just my view on the subject.

Isn't there one more variable, such as how the "drilled" holes are achieved?

High end mfg cast their rotors with holes , where as cheaper options literally drill holes in blanks, which causes structural weakness

Is that right, or an old wives tale?

Anyways I'd never use anything but blankets on the street, just pointless to do anything else. Doing any track I'd stop ******* around and jump to 2pc and more aggressive pads

DOOMMONKEY777 · 10-06-2017, 02:29 PM

ok guy...look slotted rotors are BETTER than plane OEM rotors and here is why, first the metal that they are made out of is far better that OEM and because of that they dont tend to warp as easy or wear out, yes they are heavier than OEM, but remember OEM was made to reduce wight in order to gain higher miles per gallon and easier recycling.

Second, the slotted part of the rotor removes gunk build up on the brake pads by shaving it off and eliminating air btw the pad and rotor for better braking grip.

And third, it does wear your brake pads a bit faster, but this is subjective because every one has different braking habits.

If for example you are in traffic breaking all the time, breaks heat up, gunk keeps building up on that pad and then a burst of gas to catch up and at this moment some ******* cuts right in to your lane, you hit the brake.....aaand you barely are braking due to gunk build up and air btw the pad+rotor, not to mention boiling brake fluid. Guess what ur hitting that ***.

10-02-2017, 05:03 PM	#1 (permalink)
Fren_Z Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Illinois Posts: 72 Drives: 2014 370Z nismo Rep Power: 9	Suggestion for rotors? I need to buy rotors and was looking up what's out there other than oem. I'm looking at slotted and possibly cryo treated. Has anyone had experience with cryo treated rotors and if it's worth the extra? I've heard they get twice the life and don't warp. Thaaaaaanks

10-02-2017, 07:19 PM	#2 (permalink)
Ventruck Track Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: California Posts: 785 Drives: '13 Sport+Touring M6 Rep Power: 22898	Not sure what your driving is, but as a daily driver myself I use Z1's slotted rotors with Centric Posi-quiet pads. Feel very similar to OEM. Difference is that the pads don't junk up the rotors after like two high speed braking trials. onzedge and Fren_Z like this.

10-02-2017, 09:21 PM	#3 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,350 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	Z1 rotors. If you're a baller. 2 piece Racing Brake. onzedge and Hotrodz like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

10-02-2017, 11:14 PM	#6 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,255 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214100	If you're just daily driving and looking for longevity, i'm not sure there's a better value than OEM blanks from your local parts store There's all sorts of options, out there. Like rusty said, 2 pcs rotors are great, but . . . for bumming around town, overkill Track? Sure Chuck33079 and Jayhovah like this. __________________ OptionZero Build Thread

10-03-2017, 10:31 AM	#8 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,408 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40570	Standard blanks. They work well for street driving and are inexpensive. The cost savings far out ways anything that higher priced "long life" rotors offer. Chuck33079, Hotrodz, Jayhovah and 1 others like this. __________________ GTR TT 493Whp/431lbft, Ecutek, Southbend 6puck,Quaife, RPM RollBar 4Point, R888R, JRZ RSPro F(10R/10C) R(10R/6C) 1000f500r inlbs+150inlbs Tender, SPL everywhere.Full Specs

10-03-2017, 01:42 AM	#7 (permalink)
Fren_Z Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Illinois Posts: 72 Drives: 2014 370Z nismo Rep Power: 9	I'm looking for longer life for the most part I guess. I drive it every other day. I did check out Z1. Was just gonna see if there are other opinions. Not a baller, but I'd spend the little extra for good quality. Thanks for the tips!

10-04-2017, 05:24 PM	#9 (permalink)
B&W_Evader Track Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: CA Posts: 972 Drives: slower than before Rep Power: 387	I would recommend the hi carbon version. I believe they helped me get around 30% more life from my XP8 pads. They're only $2 more than the standard blanks at tire rack. Don't think you can go wrong with that little upgrade. I'll probably go with them again once I go through my Z1 slotted rotors. Jimbo370 and Fren_Z like this. __________________ \|RIP\|6spd-sport\|OSG-LSD\|XP8\|RBF600\|Eibach Sways\|RE-71R\|FI-34Row\|Gen3-CAI\|Yaw P.S.\|

10-05-2017, 03:13 PM	#10 (permalink)
DOOMMONKEY777 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Crooklyn Posts: 1,011 Drives: 370Z 6psd-sport-pkg Rep Power: 21	I would recommend Stop Tech slotted rotors, they are one piece rotors, which means they are a bit heavier than 2 piece rotors, but braking is pretty much the same, if you buy a package they might come with free brake pads. BTW all rotors warp, it all depends on proper braking. I have installed these on my Z all around and immediately felt the OEM vs StopTech difference in braking, its VERY noticeable. __________________ Kids don't do Drugs, Drugs are bad, so let the professional druggies do Drugs for you. 537whp/496lb/tq@8-9PSI 93 octane

10-05-2017, 04:45 PM	#11 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,255 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214100	you may need to get your butt recalibrated slotted rotors don't cause you to brake any harder/faster. I mean, just think of the physics. The brake caliper/pad and rotor haven't changed size, the MC is pumping the same amount of fluid so the pressure is the same. why the hell would brake force in crease because the rotors have some slots cut into them? the slots are for cooling, so its an endurance thing more than a brake force thing and this dude is just bumming around the street, why the hell would he need slotted rotors? blanks are the best solution for his needs wideglideleon likes this. __________________ OptionZero Build Thread

10-05-2017, 07:05 PM	#13 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,350 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	We have a bunch of variables here. Vented and non vented. We have vented. Next is blank, drilled, slotted, drilled and slotted. Blank and the slotted are good for the track. Drilled, drilled and slotted are for looks on the street. Should not use them on the track because of the chance of cracking at the drill holes. The idea behind the drilled and the slotted rotors are to out gas the pads. Pads used to give off gas as they got hot. This lead to race teams to drill the rotors to help with braking. The pads now no longer need this. Rotor material. There is different types of cast iron used in making rotors. From powder iron (cheap to make), to high grade gray iron ($$$). With some rotors. You have to watch what pads you use with some rotors because of the type of iron used. The last variable. One piece vs 2 piece rotors. 2 piece rotors are more $$$. If you are racing or heavy into trackdays. They make sense. Or you are looking for the racecar looks. 1 piece rotors are cheaper, and easier to get. Last just as long as 2 piece. Just my view on the subject. 2011 Nismo#91 likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

10-06-2017, 02:29 PM	#15 (permalink)
DOOMMONKEY777 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Crooklyn Posts: 1,011 Drives: 370Z 6psd-sport-pkg Rep Power: 21	ok guy...look slotted rotors are BETTER than plane OEM rotors and here is why, first the metal that they are made out of is far better that OEM and because of that they dont tend to warp as easy or wear out, yes they are heavier than OEM, but remember OEM was made to reduce wight in order to gain higher miles per gallon and easier recycling. Second, the slotted part of the rotor removes gunk build up on the brake pads by shaving it off and eliminating air btw the pad and rotor for better braking grip. And third, it does wear your brake pads a bit faster, but this is subjective because every one has different braking habits. If for example you are in traffic breaking all the time, breaks heat up, gunk keeps building up on that pad and then a burst of gas to catch up and at this moment some ***** cuts right in to your lane, you hit the brake.....aaand you barely are braking due to gunk build up and air btw the pad+rotor, not to mention boiling brake fluid. Guess what ur hitting that . __________________ Kids don't do Drugs, Drugs are bad, so let the professional druggies do Drugs for you. 537whp/496lb/tq@8-9PSI 93 octane* Last edited by DOOMMONKEY777; 10-06-2017 at 02:32 PM.

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