Suggestion for rotors?

DOOMMONKEY777

ok guy...look slotted rotors are BETTER than plane OEM rotors and here is why, first the metal that they are made out of is far better that OEM and because of that they dont tend to warp as easy or wear out, yes they are heavier than OEM, but remember OEM was made to reduce wight in order to gain higher miles per gallon and easier recycling.

Second, the slotted part of the rotor removes gunk build up on the brake pads by shaving it off and eliminating air btw the pad and rotor for better braking grip.

And third, it does wear your brake pads a bit faster, but this is subjective because every one has different braking habits.

If for example you are in traffic breaking all the time, breaks heat up, gunk keeps building up on that pad and then a burst of gas to catch up and at this moment some ******* cuts right in to your lane, you hit the brake.....aaand you barely are braking due to gunk build up and air btw the pad+rotor, not to mention boiling brake fluid. Guess what ur hitting that ***.

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Jayhovah

You know that rotors don't actually warp, right?

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2011 Nismo#91

Geeze, I need to have my blank disks taken to my friends machine shop and cut some slots in them to make them turn into better metal. Because that's how slotted brakes are made.

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DOOMMONKEY777

No really??? and all this time i thought it was the uneven surface on the rotor caused by improper braking.





yeah let me know how that works out 4 u.

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OptionZero

You really sound like someone who watched that video, bought slotted rotors, and wanna feel good about yourself.

"slotted rotors are made of better metal than OEM"?

"cleaning the gunk will make you stop faster!"

Enjoy your super hard braking slotted rotors if you wanna pat yourself on the back, but dont try to make everyone else dumber along the way

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Rusty

Does't matter if the hole is drilled or cast in. It will still crack at the hole. And the cast hole still has to be machined to clean it up. It's cheaper to machine the hole then to cast it in. Machining with CNC. It's just 3 more steps to program in. Which you still have to do with cast in holes. Cast holes have more complexity because of the mold.

Did I recommend at type type of rotor to use to the OP? Don't think I did. Just pointed out some differences.

I could care less on what you use. It's your money. If you use carbon on carbon. Then it's

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markesc

I think the main problem is this:

Most of us simply do not have long enough commutes of sustained braking use to properly heat up the pads slowly enough. So then it becomes nothing nothing nothing and then: OH! there are a few turns I'm going to hit hard, then hard braking leading to deposits over time, leading to the throbbing pedal after anywhere from 3-6 months on a stock rotor/pad combo.

I've had this happen on the last four cars I've owned. I believe there are two ways you can remedy it:

A) change your driving behavior and accept the reality of the stock pads
B) attack it through different equipment (hence the debate on which/why/how)

I'll tell you what has worked for me every single time on the last four vehicles:

Pads: Ebc Redstuff / your choice, just not stock, something that can take some heat but I wouldn't suggest track pads as they may not heat up enough on short drives.

Rotors: Some basic slotted rotors will work fine. I Had ebc's on my wrx, never had an issue with them. If you really want to go all out, I'd strongly suggest a 2-piece rotor from Z1 atleast for the fronts. If you have a choice, a "sprinkle slotted" rotor design from my experience makes less noise than a fully slotted setup. The EBC's did make a ton of noise on my wrx, but I never had the pad deposit issue show up again. I did have some genuine brembo drilled rotors on the wrx, never had an issue with them, but they were not cheap, and last time i checked they don't make them for the 370.

I've read in other places that you can stick with stock rotors and simply go with a different pad, which I've never actually tried, but it sounds like that may be the cheapest solution, but it would really suck if you picked the wrong pad that left deposits, leading to doing it all over again... So I'd ask more on pad choices vs. commute/use.

Def get your hands on some Motul 600 fluid and flush them out really well!

I can say confidently I love my 2 piece Z1's front/rear combo with ebc redstuffs, motul 600, and SS Lines, but it wasn't cheap, and I don't actually push them often enough to warrant it, but I get back time NOT at the stupid dealership which is $$$. The few times I do push it, It's one less thing I have to think about while tackling a set of corners, now I'm staring at the oil temp gauge and wishing I had a front sway bar and "how much more $ is a Porsche cayman s?"