D2 Coilovers

Rusty

Next time. Include the whole thing.

a car had a 375# tagged spring in the rear, the driver felt that the car was loose on corner entry and the Hoosier tire temperatures supported his feel. After stiffing the spring to a 400# tagged spring the driver did not feel any changes. The tire temperatures still supported his feel. After the supposed spring change, the team then began to change shocks, sway-bars, and pan-hard bar heights. At the end of the day, the springs where rated. After viewing the data sheets we found that the 375# tagged spring was actually a 387# and the 400# tagged spring was a 385#. So the actual change in spring rate was not an increase of 25# as was intended but a decrease of 2#. This is why the driver and the tire temps showed no change.

What it amounts to is. There was a spring that what tagged as a 375#. But was measured 385#. They changed to a 400# spring, but it was measured at 385# later. That why they felt no change.

I'm at the point of You haven't been around long enough in life to see everything that we have.

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MaysEffect

I literally stated both.
In either case my point is still proven here. If two springs rates are about the same, you'd be hard to tell the difference. Regardless of its physical properties.

2011 Nismo#91

This is why I am so apprehensive with just buying and installing an adjustable coilover. You really don't know what your getting because your consumer level stuff is mass produced with little QA/QC. "It's like having a blind man adjust the focus on your camera. What's the point."

"Let me make this as clear as I possibly can: THE ADJUSTERS ON YOUR SHOCKS ALMOST CERTAINLY DO NOT DO WHAT YOU THINK THEY DO. Unless you have something high-end, like a Penske, and you've taken the time to clock the adjuster window on the shock dyno, the knobs on your shocks cannot be trusted to work. Most shocks of the same model DO NOT match each other on the same adjuster setting, and each click DOES NOT make the same change in force. Most shocks make very large changes per click near the "full hard" setting and make very little to no change near the "full soft" setting." - Autocross to Win (DGs Autocross Secrets) - Shocks

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MaysEffect

A great article indeed.
That is the problem with relying on shocks to tune overall force. This is why it's just as important on choosing the right spring setup over anything else. The damper for all intensive purposes should be doing as little work as possible. With cheap coilovers that use both inaccurately gauged dampers as well as inaccurately matched springs usually ends up with poor ride quality over time, if not immediately. Even if you have an poorly adapted damper, you still should be able to get reasonable control if you have the right spring setup and have the damper adjusted to the least intrusive rate.

One of the biggest points on the article is about gas pressure. So many rules of thought still floating around saying its not as important as it is or should be used in other ways other than valve attenuation, when in reality it can make or break your handling, certainly over time. It's also another reason why i'd never suggest anyone use a twin tube shock.

Fun fact- This is vague an slightly inaccurate. But that is an entirely different argument. Fact of the matter, F1 cars generally remove the aid of adjusters because it increases weight and bulk. Teams have entire garage zones dedicated to re-tooling or simply replacing dampers and spring rates at race events. Its never one and done.

Secondly most of the bump and rebound is controlled by the tire, not the damper. The dampers and "roll eliminators" primarily serve to control yaw, roll and pitch. Where as on our road cars the dampers have to control this plus bump and rebound as well as squat and dive independently. So adjusters are still valuable, as they are on anything short of an LMP1 or gp2 car.

2 cents.

D2 coilovers? I would actually like to know how they handle. compared to more expensive kits.