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The control arm components are dependent of the height, not the strut assembly design. If you are lowering (or raising) you car, the camber gain and toe settings changing respective
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The control arm components are dependent of the height, not the strut assembly design. If you are lowering (or raising) you car, the camber gain and toe settings changing respective to this. 1/2 inch to 1 inch won't really require all the goodies unless you just want them or are trying to reduce bushing deflection (in this case just get harder bushings).
So NO, you don't have too, but if you want to keep your alignment settings within a reasonable degree, YES you should. Larger tires and wheels with higher offsets will naturally inset the wheel and decrease the SR values. This will nominally offset scrub from negative camber gains. But that is another cost evaluation, in most cases i think such a set of tire/wheels will cost just as much as the control arm pieces. At best UPPER control arms is the most beneficial in the front, and lower camber arms > toe links in the rear is a good starting point. Adjustable endlinks is primarily to properly remove/engage pre-load on the ASB. This isn't as important for this suspension design (double A-arm), but very important on McPherson type struts (not on this car). But having too much pre-load will cause odd weight jacking issues which could create annoying taping over uneven roads and steering deflection. Last edited by MaysEffect; 07-21-2017 at 10:39 AM. |
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