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Akebono brakes cannot be rebuilt?

I was told by one of the Z guru shop mechanics that Akebonos on 370Z cannot be rebuilt. Supposedly, NISSAN says do NOT take two caliper halves apart, and they

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Old 07-20-2017, 11:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Akebono brakes cannot be rebuilt?

I was told by one of the Z guru shop mechanics that Akebonos on 370Z cannot be rebuilt. Supposedly, NISSAN says do NOT take two caliper halves apart, and they will not reseal properly. Nissan has a very specific guide to do this, but wasn't able to confirm anywhere. I was recommended to just buy the new calipers instead when the caliper life is "done" via too many track days, etc.

Anyone can chime in?
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Old 07-20-2017, 11:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I agree to that, the deformation from heat will ultimately destroy its ability to be joined back together accurately. If for whatever reason they are structurally damaged from heat abuse, they'd be to deformed either way to put them back together, let alone take apart.

You probably already have a shop, but this is probably the most authorized race shop for nissan parts

https://www.nissanraceshop.com/produ...iper-rh-red-3/

If you are looking to just refresh the pistons/piston seals, you shouldn't have to take the caliper apart.

https://www.nissanraceshop.com/produ...0z-g37-rear-2/
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Last edited by MaysEffect; 07-20-2017 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 07-20-2017, 11:56 AM   #3 (permalink)
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https://www.z1motorsports.com/brakes...it-p-6891.html

little bit cheaper here...
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Old 07-20-2017, 12:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys.
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Old 07-20-2017, 09:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I call BS on taking the calipers apart. When they powder coat the calipers. They have to take them apart to replace the o-rings between the 2 halves. Rebuilding a 4 or 6 piston caliper isn't that hard to do. Been there, done that.
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Old 07-20-2017, 11:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I call BS on taking the calipers apart. When they powder coat the calipers. They have to take them apart to replace the o-rings between the 2 halves. Rebuilding a 4 or 6 piston caliper isn't that hard to do. Been there, done that.
damn. knowing that you track the z, i feel like i should take mine apart now Lol
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Old 07-20-2017, 11:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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damn. knowing that you track the z, i feel like i should take mine apart now Lol
I wouldn't take the calipers apart unless you see some leaking, or want to change the o-rings between the 2 halves. To freshen them up. Just replace the pistons, seals and duct covers.

BUT if you want to get adventurous.

This is what I do with putting the halves back together. I use HI-Spot bluing compound. This stuff shows the high spots between the 2 halve. Put a small amount on a piece of paper towel. Wipe it across one half. Putting a VERY thin coat down. Bolt the halves together. Torque to spec. Then unbolt it. Look at the half that didn't have the bluing compound on it. It should have the bluing on it. Good mating should show about 95% to 100% contact transfer of the bluing compound. Where there is no bluing, is a low spot. To fix that. Use a honing stone and lots of WD40 to stone the halves. You will have to repeat the process several times to get it right. The last couple of calipers I did. After checking the contact one time. Everything was good.

Try not to get the bluing compound on your skin. It's like walnut stain. It ain't coming off for awhile.
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Old 07-21-2017, 12:06 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
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I wouldn't take the calipers apart unless you see some leaking, or want to change the o-rings between the 2 halves. To freshen them up. Just replace the pistons, seals and duct covers.

BUT if you want to get adventurous.

This is what I do with putting the halves back together. I use HI-Spot bluing compound. This stuff shows the high spots between the 2 halve. Put a small amount on a piece of paper towel. Wipe it across one half. Putting a VERY thin coat down. Bolt the halves together. Torque to spec. Then unbolt it. Look at the half that didn't have the bluing compound on it. It should have the bluing on it. Good mating should show about 95% to 100% contact transfer of the bluing compound. Where there is no bluing, is a low spot. To fix that. Use a honing stone and lots of WD40 to stone the halves. You will have to repeat the process several times to get it right. The last couple of calipers I did. After checking the contact one time. Everything was good.


Try not to get the bluing compound on your skin. It's like walnut stain. It ain't coming off for awhile.
In the machine shop we used Dykem for practical jokes more than anything. perfect when someone lays their safety glasses down, add it to the nose bridge and temples. Also works great on handles of all kinds, coffee cups, especially if they are blue or black colored to begin with, backside of tools, ect.
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Old 07-21-2017, 01:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Sorry Street, hijacked your thread.
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Old 07-21-2017, 01:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Sorry Street, hijacked your thread.
I can see someone reading this in the morning, going
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:23 AM   #11 (permalink)
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wtf I got lost in this thread LOL
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Old 07-21-2017, 09:19 AM   #12 (permalink)
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wtf I got lost in this thread LOL
Cliffnotes: Yes they are rebuildable according to Rusty who is a reliable source in this community.
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:47 AM   #13 (permalink)
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My bad.
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Old 07-21-2017, 12:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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My bad.
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Old 07-21-2017, 12:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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i rebuild mines my self without any "specific guide from nissan" and it worked!
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