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What is needed to setup my suspension

Originally Posted by MaysEffect Have you tried a set of extremes on this car, or any car yet? Before you install any suspension piece, its best you explore the limits

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Old 07-10-2017, 09:21 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MaysEffect View Post
Have you tried a set of extremes on this car, or any car yet? Before you install any suspension piece, its best you explore the limits of grip in factory settings first.

There are several benefits to doing this even with the standard size tires, before going crazy with alignment changes and larger wheel/tire sizes.

For one. Most of the extremes have larger tread blocks, which not only establish a higher level of contact patch for the same size, but wear in a much more uniform fashion. With this you can clearly gauge how much and where the tires are wearing most. There is no point of adding additional camber if you can't accurately use all of the available rubber on standard sizes.

In motorcycle terms, you've probably heard this banter called "chicken strips" on the tires. Similar lack of wear lines can be established on normal car tires. gauging these wear lines give you an idea of how the camber is effecting tire contact patch and also how much steering input you are putting in and where in relations to corner loads and throttle modulation.

Another form of measurement you'd should start implementing immediately if you don't already, is measuring tire pressures and heat margins across the tires. A cheap harbor freight of homedepot infrared gun can gauge heat across the tire accurate enough to tell you how much heat you are balancing across the tread. In these summer conditions you may find it easy to go from a cold 35psi to hot 41 psi in a relatively short spirited run, but getting temps up in colder conditions is equally important.

For the sake of understanding what you are feeling, its good to also randomly test different tire pressures so you know what overinflated tires feel like compared to under inflated. The gas station air pump should be your new best friend.

You have several back roads i'm sure you take advantage of already. But instead of trying to go outright fast or pushing the limits. Push the limits in different ways. Form a solid pace and intentionally try to induce understeer and oversteer by playing around with your steering input speeds as well how early or how late you enter a corner with modulation of braking a acceleration. Measure the tires accordingly after each run. You may say this is stupid or unsafe, but this is the point of establishing a slower overall speed.

Practice makes perfect, build up the aggression gradually

Very well said, good sir. Reason why I am looking to increase negative camber is because I've noticed that the outer edges of all 4 of my tires have been wearing out considerably faster than the rest of the tire.
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Old 07-10-2017, 09:25 PM   #32 (permalink)
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You are probably right there getting better all the time but with so much power coming into a turn braking is tricky to early most of the time and yes the instructors or group four go fast go fast guys eat my lunch in the corners. I will get there...

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Old 07-10-2017, 09:30 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Very well said, good sir. Reason why I am looking to increase negative camber is because I've noticed that the outer edges of all 4 of my tires have been wearing out considerably faster than the rest of the tire.
The Z has a steep camber curve in the rear. If you are wearing the outside edge. You are wearing the inside edge too. Measure your tread depth across the tires and write it down. Do you know what your alignment is at now?
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Old 07-10-2017, 09:35 PM   #34 (permalink)
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The Z has a steep camber curve in the rear. If you are wearing the outside edge. You are wearing the inside edge too. Measure your tread depth across the tires and write it down. Do you know what your alignment is at now?
That's too late now as I already put on a new set

But my outer edge was almost bald compared to the inner edge after 16k on the stock RE050A. Alignment should be oem spec unless something is not right. Haven't gotten the alignment checked but will do after I install coils and whatever else need be near the end of the month.
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Old 07-10-2017, 09:41 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Keep a notebook. Write down everything you do. Date, mileage, alignment settings, oil changes, mods, tire measurements, parts replaced, etc.
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Old 07-10-2017, 09:46 PM   #36 (permalink)
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That's too late now as I already put on a new set

But my outer edge was almost bald compared to the inner edge after 16k on the stock RE050A. Alignment should be oem spec unless something is not right. Haven't gotten the alignment checked but will do after I install coils and whatever else need be near the end of the month.

Were you measuring tire pressure consistently?. Given the natural weight balance of the car, its possible the rears are just moderately scrubbing during turns. This is not unusual with front weight biased vehicles.

As a cheat/penalty, carry an extra 40-70ibs in the rear. Of course strap whatever it is down as best as possible. as far rearward as possible as well.

You don't have to burden yourself with this practice indefinitely, but just enough times to gauge how the tires react to a slightly rearward bias change. The GVWR accounts for a load range of up to about 200ibs. Additional loads on the rear can keep the tires from sliding and scrubbing the surface. Downforce

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Old 07-10-2017, 09:49 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Were you measuring tire pressure consistently?. Given the natural weight balance of the car, its possible the rears are just moderately scrubbing during turns. This is not unusual with front weight biased vehicles.

As a cheat/penalty, carry an extra 40-70ibs in the rear. Of course strap whatever it is down as best as possible. as far rearward as possible as well.

You don't have to burden yourself with this practice indefinitely, but just enough times to gauge how the tires react to a slightly rearward bias change. The GVWR accounts for a load range of up to about 200ibs. And additional load on the rear can keep the tires from sliding and scrubbing the surface. Downforce
Something interesting to experiment with.

But I do check my tire pressure every week.
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Old 07-11-2017, 03:00 AM   #38 (permalink)
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WOW, this thread changed direction quick. If you want a startup track setup your best beat is to buy the SPL front FUCA, SPL rear camber arms, SPL rear lockout kit, and invest in a upgraded LSD. This way you can adjust your alignment and get ride of the crappy factory diff. This and seat time will improve your lap times with least amount of money spent.
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Old 07-11-2017, 12:20 PM   #39 (permalink)
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WOW, this thread changed direction quick. If you want a startup track setup your best beat is to buy the SPL front FUCA, SPL rear camber arms, SPL rear lockout kit, and invest in a upgraded LSD. This way you can adjust your alignment and get ride of the crappy factory diff. This and seat time will improve your lap times with least amount of money spent.
No point of beating a dead horse, control arms were already suggested, an LSD is an age old recommendation as of now, it's a matter of cost and total usage. Several people have gotten away with using the factory differential at the track including myself with several cars. Of course there is a limitation, but adding a new one comes with increased complexities in both drive-ability and wear. In most cases using the standard setup up first at the track with different tires gives one a better base line for expectations and measurements against mechanical and geometrical changes.
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Old 07-11-2017, 12:53 PM   #40 (permalink)
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No point of beating a dead horse, control arms were already suggested, an LSD is an age old recommendation as of now, it's a matter of cost and total usage. Several people have gotten away with using the factory differential at the track including myself with several cars. Of course there is a limitation, but adding a new one comes with increased complexities in both drive-ability and wear. In most cases using the standard setup up first at the track with different tires gives one a better base line for expectations and measurements against mechanical and geometrical changes.
I don't know what your problem is but you can stow it as far as I am concerned. Stop following me around and attacking what I have to say.

Go back to the G37 forum where you belong.
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Old 07-11-2017, 04:04 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I don't know what your problem is but you can stow it as far as I am concerned. Stop following me around and attacking what I have to say.

Go back to the G37 forum where you belong.
The narcissism..... I made my comments here and anywhere else independent of anything you said. You are the one with the problem making vaguely argumentative remarks & authoritative suggestions without any form of clarification. I've been open minded to all of your negative banter since our first encounter, which i'll remind you that it was you that attacked me. Now you are just being hostile. If you don't like what i have to say then ignore me, or continue acting like a child. I can care less, at the very least go look up the definition of the word forum. You may get a broader understanding of how this chat system works.

You suggested alignment parts on the first page, now you are following up again with rather redundant information about spending thousands of dollars on suspension and drivetrain parts. I was merely giving other comparable suggestions that anyone can further use or ask questions about in greater detail.
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Old 07-11-2017, 06:27 PM   #42 (permalink)
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MaysEffect,
Think part of the problem is we don't know what your background is. What experience you have. You seem like you have lots of tech knowledge on handling. Tell us about yourself will go a long way.
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Old 07-11-2017, 07:22 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Rusty,
That's a logical standpoint, but see how you didn't have to tell me to go Fook a goat. I can understand my low post count, wordy replies and wrong car I.D is discerning, but that's no reason to be hostile.

I wasn't at all trying to make this about me. I just like sharing and debating good ideas. But i'm not gonna hijack OP's thread to get on a personal debate with anyone, certainly something not relevant to the original premise.

You guys already shared good info, i see no reason repeating the same stuff. I'm sure their were other things OP wanted to expand on, or in the case of a future reader looking at this thread.
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Old 07-11-2017, 09:12 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Rusty,
That's a logical standpoint, but see how you didn't have to tell me to go Fook a goat. I can understand my low post count, wordy replies and wrong car I.D is discerning, but that's no reason to be hostile.

I wasn't at all trying to make this about me. I just like sharing and debating good ideas. But i'm not gonna hijack OP's thread to get on a personal debate with anyone, certainly something not relevant to the original premise.

You guys already shared good info, i see no reason repeating the same stuff. I'm sure their were other things OP wanted to expand on, or in the case of a future reader looking at this thread.
Sorry if you took it the worry way. I was just asking a question on your background. I wasn't trying to be hostile at all. From reading your other posts. You seem to have real knowledge on suspension and handling. If I know your background, I have a better time understanding what you mean. Not many people know about a shock dyno. You, me and maybe 3 other people here may know. Would like to pick your brain on some stuff.


And if I told you to go f@ck a goat. You would know it.
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Old 07-11-2017, 10:25 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I understand, i just wasn't trying to hijack this thread. I probably worded that last response a bit weird though, i wasn't talking about you being hostile, but spooler. I was using you as a good example of how to hold a conversation without telling someone they aren't welcome.
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