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ARK GT-S, SPL Camber Arms, Alignment, etc, etc...

Originally Posted by Rusty I do both track and DD the Z. I have my front settings at -2.0 camber, +7 caster, and 1/32" in toe. The rear is set

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Old 06-28-2017, 09:41 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I do both track and DD the Z. I have my front settings at -2.0 camber, +7 caster, and 1/32" in toe. The rear is set at 1.75 camber, and 1/132" in toe. The rear suspension has one hellish camber curve. The more it squats, the more -camber it gets. The -3 rear camber you mention is a bit much for the street. The -1.5 to -1.7 would be about perfect for you. You do want some toe in on both front and rear. Zero toe in the rear will give you a condition called snap-oversteer. Ok for the track, scarier then hell on the street. It's when the rear just snaps out faster then you can think. It doesn't drift out like you think it should. It's great for getting the car to rotate in the middle of the turn. Zero toe, you loose stabilize for steering quickness.
Okay, so a little toe in front and rear.

Due to the 1.5" drop, I'm pretty much locked in to a -2 -ish camber in the front which shouldn't be bad on the tires. I was running -2.6 on my '91 Miata with no wear issues, and it gripped like a mother! I think caster is increased some as well went lowered, but not sure. Again, I'm pretty much locked in to whatever the drop gives me until I pony up the cash for some adjustable UCA's.

In the rear, keep things around the -1.5 to -1.7 should be the target. That will help keep the sidewalls a little further away from the wheel well also.

Again, I'm sure all of this will be determined by the performance shop next week.

And yes, I know about snap oversteer. It's a nasty thing if you don't know how to react to it, and I don't.


One last thing which kind of isn't related, and I'm pretty sure I already know the answer, but I plan on getting a Hotchkis front sway in the very near future. Swapping out the stocker for the Hotchkis, that won't mess up the alignment, will it?

I don't think it will, but just wanted to ask.

Thanks a bunch for all of the great info, Rusty! That's the kind of help I was looking for from the beginning.

And just for fun...



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Old 06-28-2017, 09:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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What are your wheel & tire spec's? that will be helpful.
Stock Nismo Rays 19's with stock tire sizes... 245/40-19 and 285/35-19 Continental Extreme Contact DW
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:07 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Unsure if u plan to use spacers to bring wheels out...a 20mm up front & 15mm out back with very little negative camber (below 1*) will look closer to this on the outer edge/ granted that I'm not lowered any.


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Old 06-28-2017, 10:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Unsure if u plan to use spacers to bring wheels out...a 20mm up front & 15mm out back with very little negative camber (below 1*) will look closer to this on the outer edge/ granted that I'm not lowered any.


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I don't think I will. When I was running the stock base 18" wheels, I used a set of 20mm Z1 spacers, and from about 55 mph on up, I kept getting a slight vibration. Instead of spacers, maybe I'll have room for wider tires later on down the road.
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:32 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Stock Nismo Rays 19's with stock tire sizes... 245/40-19 and 285/35-19 Continental Extreme Contact DW
to use a rounded close number; From a 0* (straight up & down tire/wheel) ,the top of the tire will lean in roughly 10mm per negative degree of camber.
Sport wheel's are already pretty sunk in from the factory (19x9+47,19x10+30)
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:40 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Wherever you get it aligned; when you change camber-it changes toe & as Rusty stated "be sure & have toe a tad on the positive side" (slightly inward) as a 0 setting or -setting will make your pucker factor go up while doing some spirited driving!
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Old 06-28-2017, 11:00 PM   #22 (permalink)
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to use a rounded close number; From a 0* (straight up & down tire/wheel) ,the top of the tire will lean in roughly 10mm per negative degree of camber.
Sport wheel's are already pretty sunk in from the factory (19x9+47,19x10+30)
Remember though, I'm on Nismo wheels, not Sport wheels. The offset is a little more aggressive on these.


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Originally Posted by jchammond View Post
Wherever you get it aligned; when you change camber-it changes toe & as Rusty stated "be sure & have toe a tad on the positive side" (slightly inward) as a 0 setting or -setting will make your pucker factor go up while doing some spirited driving!
Yes sir. Honestly, I've never run 0 toe ever on any vehicle for obvious reasons.
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Old 06-28-2017, 11:05 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Talking

Sorry I didn't reply to you thread sooner. I spent the weekend hammering on my Power Wagon at Rausch Creek. Went to a Power Wagon get together.

I have the Hotchkis bars. They don't change anything on alignment. But make a difference in handling.
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Old 06-29-2017, 02:05 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Chop's,
With Nismo wheels; your outer wheel lips are 8.3mm more tucked in on front & just 4mm in on rear/ compared to my wheels pictured.
A 0* camber setting on front is within specs, but would not be within factory oem spec on rear: But would yield great tire wear, as I'm not quite at -1.0 (-0.75 to -0.8 all over)
No spacers needed & you have room for beefier tread.
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Old 06-29-2017, 03:10 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I can't think of anyone who does or would run 0* camber.
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