Additional Brake Cooling?
 

Question
How do i get more air to the brakes? I've never seen more than the stillen kit on a 370z.
- Also this is my only car... so it can't be stupid for usability. :-)


After a 2 mile cool down:

• front rotors were: 850F
• front calipers: 450F
• oil temp: 270+ (no limp mode tho, so yay)

Track day specs:

• Carbotech XP8 pads on all 4 corners
• DBA-5000 2-piece rotors on the front
• Stillen brake ducting kit
• Toyo R888 tires

:tiphat:

Quickest solution but most expensive would be . . . throwing $6K at a Stillen/AP Racing RadiCAL or some other similar system

but how bout these? Z1 2-pc rotors. They are internally vented in a manner i don't think the DBA ones are.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/brakes...rs-p-7025.html

As for the oil temps . . . time for a 34 row?

I mean, does AP Racing have a cooler vented rotor than DBA does?
- DBA has their own proprietary vane system

Oil temps yeah... I'd imagine another 9 rows on the cooler would help.

Well, i mentioned the RadiCAL system (or something from Brembo, etc) because it would accomodate an even larger rotor for more heat disappation

but it seems like their rotors are internally vented based on the pics here:
Why Upgrade Your Brakes | AP Racing Radi-Cal Big Brake Kits by STILLEN


Sounds like based on your use and tires you are reaching the limits of the OEM braking system and it may be time to step up to a "big brake kit"

That's not how this works. While I will concede that surface area is directly proportional to convective heat transfer capability, surface area and volume do not increase at a 1:1 ratio as you increase the diameter of the rotor. With what you're proposing, you're just increasing heat storage at a faster rate than you are cooling capability. In other words: Once it gets hot, it's staying hot.

How about larger duct or secondary ducts?

Additionally, keep in mind that the ferrous rotors used in endurance racing commonly reach temperatures of 1500°F or higher under braking (this is the glow you see during night races).

IMHO I'd consider a secondary duct for the caliper and call it a day for now. You might also look into some temperature indicating paint to determine just how hot the rotors and calipers are getting at peak temperature. Temperature indicating paint

You need more air thru the rotor.

Your sig says you have the stillen kit and that is only 50mm hose - you need 75 or 100mm

You need to direct air into the centre of the rotor and that requires a backing plate to make sure the air is definitely directed into the centre of the rotor. You should be able to modify the Stillen backing plate to suit larger hose

Oil temps at 270 degrees is too close to the edge and a bigger cooler is needed. Ideally, oil temp should be within 10-15 degrees of water temps

:iagree:

You need more air. If you can't run a 3" or 4" hose. Run 2, 2" hoses to each rotor. One front, one rear of the coil-over.

You need bigger oil cooler too.

Change your oil asap. Once oil sees temps over 250/260 it breaks down very fast and becomes useless. Better the oil of course and better the base stock used the longer it'll last though.

Thank you for the heads up.
I'll swap out oil this weekend.

And rotors
And shocks
And pads
And tires
And wheels

Sheesh, i don't think i have enough weekend!!

For all of those recommending extra brake ducting... here's another question...


Question
- Has anyone done a 2nd hose to their rotor before?

I'm open to suggestions. BUT not sure how to do fitment.

hmm...

A couple of people have done the 2nd hose. Just can't remember who. The one was on a Nismo with the Nismo RC brake ducts, which have a 4" opening. They used a 4" to 2-2" hose splitter. You just may need to have a larger inlet opening.

I'm using the front bumper "fangs" that stillen provided with their kit.
Wondering where a different intake might go. *scratches head

Maybe you could put a couple of generic NACA ducts on the undertray and use that as the air intake to the hoses.