Front camber alignment?

Guyfromthere

Hello,

I just did an alignment on my wheels and figured that it's not possible to adjust front camber on stock car. Is it correct? I also attach photo with my allignment results so someone who has more knowledge about this can comment (It's in Lithuanian, I'll put translations below).

Left side is before, Right side is after.

K. - Left
D. - Right
1 - Total toe
2 - Camber
3 - Caster

Attached Images

IMG_0515.jpg (818.7 KB, 208 views)

gomer_110

There is no camber adjustment on the front with the factory control arms. If you wanted to be able to adjust front camber you will need to get aftermarket upper control arms.

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'17 Titan Bone Stock

Guyfromthere

Ah thanks! Gonna get the Z1 ones I guess.

ecoplunge

Your toe is a little straighter than OEM nominal specs, front and rear, but not bad.

Stock alignment specs?

Should feel pretty quick to turn as is. A little more positive toe would make it more straight line stable without too much affect on tire wear. But if you like it I don't think you need to change it.

Camber and caster are good unless you want to track the car.

Guyfromthere

Ye, the car feels better after alignment . But I wanna go fully to stock spec since I plan to visit the track once - twice a month when it gets warmer

ecoplunge

I would think your toe would be great for track. Don't really need more camber in the rear in my opinion but this may come down to preference. Definitely could use more negative camber and positive caster up front but honestly if you did nothing this would be a good place to start for track sessions. I'd at least track it once before you adjust it or put on camber/caster front arms to know what it feels like before and after on track.

Guyfromthere

Camber is already almost at minimum stock spec, why go even lower?

ecoplunge

FYI, all numbers here are degree minutes:

Your front camber is close to "minimum" at -1.12, that means it leans in. Closer to nominal spec (-.4) would make you straighter up and down. More negative camber helps to "flatten out" out the tire during cornering creating more grip. There will be a lot of difference of opinion on this but a lot of people will run -2 camber up front because the Z tends to push at the front. More negative camber, more grip in the corner (to a point).

Your rear camber is pretty close to nominal at -1.4. This is pretty acceptable. Again lots of opinions on this but something closer to -1.11 would be better out back. My reasoning is as follows: More rear camber means less grip in a straight line. Our cars have a lot of negative camber gain as the suspension compresses so less initial camber is needed. So less negative camber out back means more grip during acceleration but still enough during cornering.

Take this all with a grain of salt. There is a lot to know about suspension setup and LOTS of opinions. And remember, there is no perfect. Street/Track, surface type, race type all affect optimal settings.

Guyfromthere

Thanks for all that info! I don't wanna go something like -2 camber since it's my dd as well and I'd like to get equal tire wear

flyguy0812

Last year I installed Z1 motorsports upper control arms. Then had a 4 wheel alignment. What a difference. The Z1 arms have 6 degrees of caster built in which help with turn in. The align was what most suggested for a track/street set up. Some camber and some toe. Best money spent for the dollar.

Guyfromthere

Thanks for your input! My arms are already in transit Any chance you have your alignment numbers?

osbornsm

Here is an easy-to-read chart of how the alignment is supposed to be.

370z Alignment Specs

Stock front camber is 0.7

I enjoy 1.8 for street and track compromise.

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Senna-F1

I was very disappointed to see that my Z1 arms were not adjustable once installed on the car. I set them up using the stock arms as a guide. But that's where they stayed too. Luckily the numbers came out ok, but if I want to change the alignment, it's really not possible without removing them, and with swift springs that also means removing the wheels, strut tower bar, and struts themselves. There is no room to remove the 2 bolts holding the arms to the chassis because spring coils are compressed. What am I missing? I find this to be an almost pointless purchase at this point. Especially since I set them up to be like stock, so my numbers are probably what they would be on stock arms. Except for the caster.

OptionZero

This is why i always say get SPL FUCAs and be done. But oh well

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k67p67

The Voodoo13 FUCAs appear to be a great alternative and about $100 cheaper than SPL.

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