TRACK OG's ONLY!!

Xhilr8n! · 02-14-2017, 06:33 PM

And you will see that no matter how well you get your car all modded up and tuned in, some dude or gal in a way lesser car will humble you.

There's always a faster car. Some days it's you

Spooler · 02-14-2017, 07:14 PM

I don't track but I can tell you after the oil cooler, good tires, good alignment setting, brake fluid, and brake pads your best beat is to upgrade the rear diff to a better LSD than stock. The stock VLSD will do the one wheel wonder like crazy.

wanabgts · 02-17-2017, 08:16 PM

My track car setup, which is very fast on most of the track around here.

500whp fyi, understeer on exit is not an issue.

Front:
kw v3 revalved, 950lb/in springs or around 17kg/mm
Whiteline front sway bar and end links.
Kinetix upper arm w/-3.1* camber, around 7* caster, 0 toe
SPL compliance bushing and lower arm bushing.

REAR:
KW V3 revalved, 750lb/in or 13k
Stock sway bar
SPL knuckle bushings
-1.75* camber/ 1/8-1/4 total toe in (depends on how fast the track is)

315 toyo r888 fron and rear is the usual tire.

So you need any of this? NO, but this amount of roll stiffness is what it takes to make a fast car. It sucks on the street even valved properly. Most of the issues with this car revolve around keeping it cool, not suspension setup.

Zack

OptionZero · 02-17-2017, 10:19 PM

Your setup isn't really relevant, as is it dedicated setup. I don't doubt it's fast, but the original poster himself said he has zero track experience and it will be 99% street

When you get to the point of replacing knuckle bushings with solid pieces, you're beyond streetable imo. I've done it. Its a huge step.

wanabgts · 02-17-2017, 10:56 PM

Suppose, although the ride actually get better because of less binds. The noise on the other hand is a problem.

Also very little here is relevant. As has been stated over and over, start with a stock car and learn how to wheel it, buy brakes and tires. My car is what you end up with after saying "just one more mod" for 6 years.

Zack

02-14-2017, 06:33 PM	#16 (permalink)
Xhilr8n! Base Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Asheville, NC, USA Posts: 132 Drives: 2016 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 9	And you will see that no matter how well you get your car all modded up and tuned in, some dude or gal in a way lesser car will humble you. There's always a faster car. Some days it's you __________________ Lotus: 1974 Europa, 2005 track Elise, 2011 Evora S DD: 2015 Honda Civic Si, Toyota Tundra TRD PRO 2007 350Z, 2010 370Z 40th, 2016 370Z Nismo, should read XZILR8N! Last edited by Xhilr8n!; 02-14-2017 at 06:36 PM.

02-17-2017, 10:19 PM	#19 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,226 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214100	Your setup isn't really relevant, as is it dedicated setup. I don't doubt it's fast, but the original poster himself said he has zero track experience and it will be 99% street When you get to the point of replacing knuckle bushings with solid pieces, you're beyond streetable imo. I've done it. Its a huge step. __________________ OptionZero Build Thread

02-14-2017, 07:14 PM	#17 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,800 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	I don't track but I can tell you after the oil cooler, good tires, good alignment setting, brake fluid, and brake pads your best beat is to upgrade the rear diff to a better LSD than stock. The stock VLSD will do the one wheel wonder like crazy.

02-17-2017, 08:16 PM	#18 (permalink)
wanabgts Base Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 36 Drives: 09 370z Nismo Rep Power: 9	My track car setup, which is very fast on most of the track around here. 500whp fyi, understeer on exit is not an issue. Front: kw v3 revalved, 950lb/in springs or around 17kg/mm Whiteline front sway bar and end links. Kinetix upper arm w/-3.1* camber, around 7* caster, 0 toe SPL compliance bushing and lower arm bushing. REAR: KW V3 revalved, 750lb/in or 13k Stock sway bar SPL knuckle bushings -1.75* camber/ 1/8-1/4 total toe in (depends on how fast the track is) 315 toyo r888 fron and rear is the usual tire. So you need any of this? NO, but this amount of roll stiffness is what it takes to make a fast car. It sucks on the street even valved properly. Most of the issues with this car revolve around keeping it cool, not suspension setup. Zack

02-17-2017, 10:56 PM	#20 (permalink)
wanabgts Base Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 36 Drives: 09 370z Nismo Rep Power: 9	Suppose, although the ride actually get better because of less binds. The noise on the other hand is a problem. Also very little here is relevant. As has been stated over and over, start with a stock car and learn how to wheel it, buy brakes and tires. My car is what you end up with after saying "just one more mod" for 6 years. Zack