Greddys new kw coilovers
 

Anyone seen these yet?! They look very promising. Not expensive at all, rebound adjustable and the first one I have seen yet that has helper springs in the rear without being a true type coilover. This means more droop for inside wheel lift and well as more negative travel for traction while going over humps/rises.

I already have my setup but if this was out about two months ago it would have been extremely tempting (and still is).

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...s-p-10461.html

Second look I can't really tell if true type or not as the spring looks long, yet there is no threads for perches and the rear list 9k which would be insane for true type.

Confused?

The droop travel is limited by the amount of travel the shock can do. So it may not be significantly more than a true coil setup, if any better at all. And these are not true coils in the rear. No threads means no perches.

These look pretty interesting. They basically took a set of KW V1's, revalved them for linear springs, and had some different colors done.

The spring rates are 672/504lb, so that's actually soft in the front. The rear is about spot on though.

The droop isn't only how long the shock is it also needs the helper spring which no other non true type that I am aware of has. Without it even if you lengthen the shock at a certain point the spring will no longer have any force on it to hold it in place and will rattle around and possibly fall side ways.

I'm actually considering dropping my rates for street to a 10/9 as the 12/11 is a little firm but not terrible, so it sounds like a good street setup and it would compare to the v2 that kw doesn't actually offer.

I'm most definitely not saying these are bad at all. In fact they are probably going to be pretty good. But the front rates are too soft for what I need. I am looking at the equivalent of 15k to 17k front with a 9k rear. And that's before any aero work increases that.

Oh wow yea your definitely going for pure track. Thinking your going to need custom setup jrz or equivalent. Why such a high split though and not a higher rear rate too?

Greddys new kw coilovers
 

I'm looking at some 2 way MCS coils. Although JRZ's aren't out of the question. Having driven on JRZ's, I'm somewhat ruined lol.

The rear doesn't need that much spring compared to the front. If I need to go up on rates, I will. But for what I do (tail of the dragon, eventually HPDE, possibly TT), the 500lb rears have been doing just fine on a friends Z with JRZ's.


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That's a 500lbs rear on the jrz which is a true type coilover if I'm not mistaken so that is a lot firmer than a 500lbs oem location spring like greddy use (or any other oem type).

Actually it's usually the other way around. The 500lb spring on the bucket will be stiffer than the 500lb spring on the shock mount. Now I can't quote wheel rates and motion ratios on the two different setups, but using logic that I know, that's how it should be. I could very well be wrong however.

Think you have that one backwards. Look at ever oem type always has firmer rear rate than true type even within the same brand that offers both (example stance oem type is 10k rear and true type 5k). Also look at the point of leverage, with the spring being closest the the pivot (fulcrum point) it has a huge lever arm working against it so distance is the gain and force is the loss. True type is the exact opposite, the load is directly below it so force is gain and distance is lose (which is also why it needs a longer spring for the same stroke shock).

Like I said, I could be wrong. I am dealing with some number crunching stuff at work along with some CAD stuff, so using the remaining brain power produces some fuzzy results lol.

But what I do know is what my friend has felt on the track with his spring rates. He will be going up from an 850lb spring in the front and leaving the 500lb spring in the back as is.

Ha, solidworks fighting you?

Yep, inboard, true-coilover spring rates don't need to be as high as the outboard OEM-type springs. This is an approximation but a 10K OEM spring is about equal to somewhere between 7-8K on a true-type coilover on the damper. They're twin tube too so they may be a bit more comfortable than a Mono.

I run a 12K/10K setup and I don't think I'd go higher than that for a street-driven vehicle with normal/crappy roads. These may actually be somewhat comfortable on nasty highways.

Looking at the kit, it's definitely OEM spring location in the rear. What I'd like to know is do you still have to take the rear shock out to adjust rear damping if you don't want to drill holes in your car? Other than that, good price point and I'm sure it'll persuade a few folks to save a bit and shell out for these vs. the cheap Taiwan/Chinese shocks.

You would still need to drill holes as they are essentially a v2 shock, something I still need to do to mine but am waiting till my friend can 3D print me some plugs I designed that I think won't look bad. What caught my eye was the rear using a linear spring and helper spring so a little more droop than all the others available. Yea great price point too, if I didn't just get my powertrix a few months ago these would have been very tempting even though I am a monotube fan in terms of design theory (unless it's a twin tube like ohlin ttx which these are not). Maybe greddy will sell their rear spring setup (without the springs), then could use whatever spring you want and add some droop not that I'm having rear lift issues but I'm also not on R compounds.

I actually use AutoCad for work, and I'm teaching myself Solidworks. We don't draw in 3D for work since all we do are prints on 2D programs. But since I have the tools at my disposal, I want to learn everything I can.