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About to get an Alignment, 2nd opinion please?

Originally Posted by BGTV8 I think you have some mis-matched expectations here ............. 480whp is a tough ask for any rubber ........... and there are a bunch of compromises to

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Old 12-06-2016, 12:16 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGTV8 View Post
I think you have some mis-matched expectations here .............

480whp is a tough ask for any rubber ........... and there are a bunch of compromises to consider.

By standing the rear tyre up (less camber) you flatten the tread face to maximise grip potential, BUT the torque associated with 480rwhp is going to torture the tyre in lower gears (remember, a gearbox is a torque multiplier in lower gears ....).

When you launch the car, it will squat at the rear which induces more camber which lessens the size of the contact patch .........

BUT

when you tip it into a corner, the car rolls and you need some rear camber to ensure that the car does not fall-over on the outside tyre and reduce the contact patch size because the inside of the outside rear tyre becomes unweighted ...

So, before being prescriptive, consider whether you are asking seeking a unicorn ..... because the best solution might be to feather the throttle in low gears .... laying two black lines all the time becomes expensive in the end.

Rather than thinking that suspension alignment is the "fix", you need to re-think objectives because some solutions - like standing the rear tyres up some more - actually hurt other areas - like cornering grip.

The answer will be a combination because it is a system fix .... and by that I mean
1. Alignment to OEM specs as a starter so the car will still corner (maybe go "more" neg at the front to promote healthy turn-in
2. Sticky tyres that you replace regularly (rear at least)
3. Moderate your throttle inputs at low speeds/gears (or invest in an aftermarket Traction Control system which aligns torque to available grip)
4. Think about softening the rear in roll (no or softer rear bar) and giving the car a little less bump stiffness on the rear shocks to promote compliance to improve grip and a bit less rebound at the front to let more weight transfer to the rear. This is a dark art and depends on adjustable shocks. You "could" also look at less rear spring as a stiff rear spring does not promote rear grip

For point 4, you need to test and if this is not something you are comfortable doing, then an aftermarket TC system is the best option.
These are great points. I understood from the start that it would be a balance not the best of both worlds. The traction will definitely be improved by all the work i already did (lsd, whiteline bushings, spl camper and toe arms with solid bushings) so a moderate amount of camber should be fine in the rear. I'm gonna have to go back to softer on the rear stillen bar, i just changed it.
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