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Voodoo13 camber rods
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I tend to buy things cuz they look cool- I’m hoping that wasn’t a mistake in the case of my Voodoo13 camber rods. They look cool alright, but I fear the sway bar and the rods are going try to occupy the same space at the same time at the lowest point of the suspension travel. I’m sure the aluminum body of the camber arm will not survive that impact and most likely that aluminum arm is not going bend, it’s going to snap, leading to all kinds of unthinkable nightmares. When the car is at rest there is a ½” gap between the sway bar and the camber arm. I understand that the upper control arm will pull the sway bar up, via sway bar link, during suspension travel. Obviously the camber arms moves up with the suspension also. So my question is- Is the movement ratio about the same? In other words if the camber rod travels up 1” does the sway bar end also move 1” or something very close? I plan to take the spring out and manually run the suspension through its travel to verify there is no contact (hopefully). I was just wondering if anyone here has seen or run into this before.
Pic is a little blurry- |
The straight style arms were designed with stock height, OEM sway bar size in mind. See post by member Critical below
http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...ml#post2970812 Also on the G side of things Help Rear spc camber question. - MyG37 Additional info - the OEM and SPL ones are curved. Original SPC ones are curved, then redesigned to straight for strength (probably b/c one snapped in half during track time). |
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plus- Allegedly, Chris Forsberg runs these on his formula drift 370 and I doubt that car is stock height or uses OEM sway bars. Wtf Voodoo?:confused: |
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Maybe you can ask MA Motorsports since they are a vendor here, and setup Chris's race and personal Z. |
The motion ratio is basically the same. You will be able to tell if there are any clearance issues when you drive it. And considering Voodoo13 has done actual R&D work, I think they would've made them curved if they had to. You don't need to have a curved arm to adjust camber, as the thing that actually adjusts camber is the distance from the inner mounting point to the outer point, not the angle of the arm.
Now, on the other side of that, you can change the drop height by raising or lowering the mounting points in relation to each other, but that would be VERY obviously specified in the product description, such as it is with Voodoo's drop spindle angle kit. |
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That being said- I have driven it and have noticed (heard or felt) no problems at all. I have also inspected the potential rod to sway bar contact area and there is no visual or physical evidence I can see to indicate contact. I really don’t want to replace these Voodoo c-rods, they seem to be really high quality. My science project for this weekend will be to simulate rear suspension travel. I’m thinking take a spring out, a tire off and with the car on a jack stand at ride height use a floor jack to move the suspension through its travel. If successful on one side I will check the other for peace of mind. Stand by for results. |
I installed straight with large diameter TruHart camber bars on an all OE suspension, wheels etc. 370z Sport/Touring without issue. When I brought the car to have the alignment checked they couldn't get it flatter than -2*. Brought it back with the bars and they couldn't get it flatter than -1.7* before the toe started to go out of spec. Now I'm awaiting toe bolts. I'm trying to get the camber to a max negative of -1* to save the inside of the ReAR tires, especially after widening the wheels to the inside and rolling on 325/30/19 tires.
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would love see some pics of those 325s stuffed in that wheel-well. i just went to 305s on OE Nismo wheels and i had moment or two where i thought they were going to be too big. |
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for those who care, this is how I spent last couple hours- 1-raised the back of the car, pulled both rears off and set the car on jack stands. Jack stands positioned under rear body mounts so the rear suspension can extend freely. 2- pulled the coilovers out and set them aside. I now have completely free hanging suspension that I can move up and down easily without affecting the chassis. The sway bar is still fully connected. 3- used floor jack to simulate suspension travel. before raising the suspension i checked the sway bar to c-rod gap at full extension and as expected the 1/2 inch gap (see my previous posts) had grown to about 3/4 inch. As I raised the suspension with the floor jack the gap gradually decreased to a 1/2 inch at about half way through full travel. To my surprise the sway bar to c-rod gap began to increase as I continued raising the suspension through its travel. The gap at or near the fully compressed suspension travel is about 3/4 inch. I got the same results on both sides. I did not do any checking with both sides raised at the same time but I cant imagine that would change anything. So it appears my sway bar to c-rod gap is tightest, 1/2 inch, at ride height! I am using the OE Nismo sway bar. If I ever upgrade that i may be revisting this issue, but for now I think I'm good.:tup: |
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Voodoo13 camber rods
This is a 335/30/18 Hoosier A7 on an 11.5 +4x or so offset wheel at stock height and alignment.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...55f5b4d85e.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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