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-   -   Loose clutch petal (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/116380-loose-clutch-petal.html)

Billibob22 08-29-2016 12:52 PM

Loose clutch petal
 
Hello all
I have had this z for a little over 1 year now and just recently the clutch pedal has gotten easier to push, it has me trippin a little bit. Does it have to do with me needing to change the clutch fluid? If so can i do it myself? I have never changed it, is that bad? Should I change it more often? It still shifts fine but took it on a long trip to Vegas and now its feeling different. Any tips? Do it yourself clutch fluid changing guides maybe? Thanks in advance for your help!!

Zbrah 08-29-2016 03:06 PM

Google 370z csc and master cylinder issues.

Billibob22 08-29-2016 03:48 PM

Loose clutch petal
 
What are the symptoms of a csc failure?
It still has pressure and drives fine, just little less pressure when I press the pedal is all?


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Jsolo 08-29-2016 10:45 PM

What does your petal look like?

Like this? http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thum...Jam-Step-1.jpg

Pedal stiffness is dictated primarily by the pressure plate fingers. That is after all what you're pressing against to release the clutch. I suppose it's possible for the spring tension to weaken on these fingers and pedal pressure to change. A fail[ing] csc will typically have a fluctuating grab point, or even all the way at the floor and dead pedal for majority of its travel.

Changing clutch fluid is very easy. Just did it a few days ago on mine. You'll need some apparatus to remove the old fluid from the reservoir (but not completely), then either gravity bleed or have a helper pump the pedal slowly then hold while you open and close the bleeder screw at the trans. I did a combination of gravity bleeding to flush new fluid through the system, then a helper for good measure.

Post a pic of your clutch fluid reservoir with the cover removed.

Billibob22 08-29-2016 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jsolo (Post 3545626)
What does your petal look like?

Like this? http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thum...Jam-Step-1.jpg

Pedal stiffness is dictated primarily by the pressure plate fingers. That is after all what you're pressing against to release the clutch. I suppose it's possible for the spring tension to weaken on these fingers and pedal pressure to change. A fail[ing] csc will typically have a fluctuating grab point, or even all the way at the floor and dead pedal for majority of its travel.

Changing clutch fluid is very easy. Just did it a few days ago on mine. You'll need some apparatus to remove the old fluid from the reservoir (but not completely), then either gravity bleed or have a helper pump the pedal slowly then hold while you open and close the bleeder screw at the trans. I did a combination of gravity bleeding to flush new fluid through the system, then a helper for good measure.

Post a pic of your clutch fluid reservoir with the cover removed.



http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...85adb2d5ac.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6e52a34b49.jpg

Billibob22 08-30-2016 12:09 AM

Loose clutch petal
 
Found this Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUvE
Here
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ease-look.html
Will this do it?
If so, can you tell me which fluid to purchase?
Jeez, looks dirty.. I feel bad.. I wish I knew about it before... Kind of car stupid lol right down to the "petal" haha!
Thanks for replying ;-)

Jsolo 08-30-2016 08:38 AM

Several thoughts.

1) Level appears to be at the lower level marker. How long ago (time and miles) was the fluid last changed? I don't recall ever seeing my level drop. Even after 14K miles/3.5yrs (first change) and 8K miles/1yr (2nd change) intervals.

Take a look at this - link .

2) I'd start by doing a thorough flush/bleed. Monitor the level often and closely. It shouldn't move at all. If it does, be prepared for a CSC replacement. Considering your car is a 2010 with unspecified mileage, it's probably time for a clutch anyways. Replace the MC while you're at it.

Any dot 3/4 fluid would work.

Billibob22 08-30-2016 08:47 AM

Like most things on this car probably never changed...
This car seemed to be neglected.
57000 miles
I'll let you know how it goes! Thanks again!


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Jsolo 08-30-2016 08:54 AM

Honestly, I wasn't planning on doing the clutch this year, but decided to pop the cap off after getting done with the brake fluid and didn't like what I saw. Because the OE fluid is less performance oriented dot 3, I think it's less hygroscopic, so it lasts a bit longer.

Benefit of dot 4 and other high performance fluids is its higher wet boiling point. Given the way I drive the car this doesn't really apply.

Billibob22 08-30-2016 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jsolo (Post 3545751)
Several thoughts.

1) Level appears to be at the lower level marker. How long ago (time and miles) was the fluid last changed? I don't recall ever seeing my level drop. Even after 14K miles/3.5yrs (first change) and 8K miles/1yr (2nd change) intervals.

Take a look at this - link .

2) I'd start by doing a thorough flush/bleed. Monitor the level often and closely. It shouldn't move at all. If it does, be prepared for a CSC replacement. Considering your car is a 2010 with unspecified mileage, it's probably time for a clutch anyways. Replace the MC while you're at it.

Any dot 3/4 fluid would work.



http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...da9f3fdf18.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0b852985b6.jpg
Got it done!! I will watch the fluid for sure now! Thank you so much it already shifts better.
The fluid that came out was all watery and nasty!!
Clear now!

Jsolo 08-30-2016 03:04 PM

An outdoor lift?? Now I've seen it all.

Billibob22 08-30-2016 03:05 PM

Dude it was so awesome
I had no idea this Rick guy had one
Car repairs no problem now!!

Chuck33079 08-30-2016 03:42 PM

Start setting aside funds for a CSC replacement. The dark stuff in that fluid is the seals inside the CSC.

Billibob22 08-30-2016 03:44 PM

Alright,
How long do i have, do you think?
How much does that run?

Chuck33079 08-30-2016 04:59 PM

Should be 6-8 hours of shop time. It could go at any time. People here have had a failure at 1k miles. Do some reading. Its probably the most discussed topic on the forum.

Billibob22 08-30-2016 05:10 PM

Oh yes I have...
Theres lots of people talking about the CSC failure..
Huge difference changin the fluid out for sure
I will keep you all posted on what happens
Looks like 430$ for the CSC and 75$ for the master... Here's hoping it makes it through the holidays the first of the year would be the best time for me to replace given the cost !

Chuck33079 08-30-2016 05:18 PM

You should consider a clutch and flywheel at th same time. It's pretty much the same labor and there's a good chance your oem clutch will be ruined from fluid leaking on it. Just call Joe at ZSpeed or Jon at Z1 and they'll get you set up.

Billibob22 08-30-2016 05:20 PM

Loose clutch petal
 
What about the elimination kit? It would seem like the best way to go right? Who wants to keep having this problem??
Are those places local to me? Im in central California close to Fresno...
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...qov5b2htghic27

Chuck33079 08-30-2016 05:22 PM

You won't keep having this problem with the aftermarket csc unless you buy a garbage clutch like a Spec.

No idea if they're local, but they're the best places to call for this.

Billibob22 09-01-2016 08:17 PM

Been thinking about this alot lately and honestly I'm sorry I bought this Z.. It's sad that Nissan puts such shitty parts on Zs and expects people to just have a small fortune to fix them... Definitely not a happy Z owner at this point... Bogus..

jabo5779 09-01-2016 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billibob22 (Post 3547002)
Been thinking about this alot lately and honestly I'm sorry I bought this Z.. It's sad that Nissan puts such shitty parts on Zs and expects people to just have a small fortune to fix them... Definitely not a happy Z owner at this point... Bogus..

I agree.

So if you bought the car to mod it hold out until you have enough to do a complete solution plus whatever else you were thinking of doing to save money on the labor.

I have my car in the shop going FI, so I did the Specialty Z clutch/flywheel with Tilton Racing CSC (all comes as a package) from Fast Intentions website. Plus an RJM performance Master cylinder and and RJM's updated pedal (although I already had his old pedal).

Don't piecemeal this, you will lose out in the end. Once you do an upgraded CSC or CSC delete kit the next weakest link is the master cylinder and if you do a CSC upgrade or delete without a clutch I'm not too sure how that is going to hold up.

Do as much as you can at one time and save money. If you never intended to upgrade the car, now is the time to get out cause you are looking at a $2500 bill including labor if you go with what I mentioned above and you might have to revert to trade in depending on how much you do. Nothing is going to give you the piece of mind like doing the whole system, that's why I did it this way.

Billibob22 09-01-2016 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jabo5779 (Post 3547032)
I agree.

So if you bought the car to mod it hold out until you have enough to do a complete solution plus whatever else you were thinking of doing to save money on the labor.

I have my car in the shop going FI, so I did the Specialty Z clutch/flywheel with Tilton Racing CSC (all comes as a package) from Fast Intentions website. Plus an RJM performance Master cylinder and and RJM's updated pedal (although I already had his old pedal).

Don't piecemeal this, you will lose out in the end. Once you do an upgraded CSC or CSC delete kit the next weakest link is the master cylinder and if you do a CSC upgrade or delete without a clutch I'm not too sure how that is going to hold up.

Do as much as you can at one time and save money. If you never intended to upgrade the car, now is the time to get out cause you are looking at a $2500 bill including labor if you go with what I mentioned above and you might have to revert to trade in depending on how much you do. Nothing is going to give you the piece of mind like doing the whole system, that's why I did it this way.



Thank you for your wisdom. I learned a new word today! Piecemeal, never heard that before today.. Honestly! I love it!
I will continue to update this thread as this CSC situation develops. It's not like I cannot afford this its the principle of the whole thing.... Thank you again for responding. Much MUCH appreciated... :-)

nis350 09-02-2016 01:42 AM

How long does the gravity bleed take? Do you just open the bleed bolt and let the fluid flow out?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jsolo (Post 3545626)
You'll need some apparatus to remove the old fluid from the reservoir (but not completely), then either gravity bleed or have a helper pump the pedal slowly then hold while you open and close the bleeder screw at the trans. I did a combination of gravity bleeding to flush new fluid through the system, then a helper for good measure.

Post a pic of your clutch fluid reservoir with the cover removed.


TBatt 09-02-2016 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nis350 (Post 3547090)
How long does the gravity bleed take? Do you just open the bleed bolt and let the fluid flow out?

Yes, that is what a gravity bleed is. How long it takes varies with how old the fluid is. Gravity bleeding is usually not quick but it does work. Make sure that you monitor the reservoir and don't let it run out. It doesn't hold very much fluid so it will need watching.

I myself, use a vacuum bleeder. It works and has been working for the past 15 years. https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...fType=&from=fn

This tool can be used for lots of car work.

JARblue 09-02-2016 09:29 AM

OP, replace your master cylinder (CMC) before you mess with dropping the transmission and the CSC. It's cheaper and might actually temporarily solve your soft pedal. But as mentioned previously, start saving because the CSC will eventually fail. You can wait for it to fail and get stranded on the side of the road (since CSC failure is almost always catastrophic) or you can do it preemptively whenever you're ready.

Jsolo 09-02-2016 10:07 AM

I'm not a big fan of vacuum bleeding because it relies on having a good seal between the bleeder threads. While it's unlikely it'll introduce more air into the system, the bubbles visible may be deceiving because of a poor seal. Too many poor experiences with the mityvac tool in years past.

The fluid in my car wasn't too old, a bit over a year. The level in the reservoir went down fairly quick. I refilled when it got to the min mark. Went through about 5 or 6 refills like that in the course of about 5 min.

BobbyLight 09-02-2016 11:48 AM

Jabo has the right idea. Go ahead and replace the whole system if you really don't want to worry about it.. Mine is in the shop right now getting new a clutch / flywheel, insulated line, RJM master cylinder, RJM pedal assembly, and zspeeds new CMAK kit (addresses the csc issue and moves the slave to the outside of the bell housing similar to late model fords). At the very least, it looks like your fluid could use a change.

The clutch system on these cars suck and I don't want to have to worry about anything failing again. RJM /zspeed/ z1 wouldn't make these products if there wasn't a need!

mults 09-02-2016 12:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by TBatt (Post 3547195)
Yes, that is what a gravity bleed is. How long it takes varies with how old the fluid is. Gravity bleeding is usually not quick but it does work. Make sure that you monitor the reservoir and don't let it run out. It doesn't hold very much fluid so it will need watching.

I myself, use a vacuum bleeder. It works and has been working for the past 15 years. https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...fType=&from=fn

This tool can be used for lots of car work.

According to the FSM, it says...

NOTE:
Do not use a vacuum assist or any other type of power bleeder on this system. Use of vacuum assist or power
bleeder will not purge all the air from the system.

Billibob22 09-02-2016 09:54 PM

Excellent thank all of you so much!
Update:
Since the system was blead and new fluid put in, fluid level has not changed in 3 days driving to work. The fluid itself has not changed at all. The pedal is still loose but less loose, just slightly, since the fluid change. Definitely not what it once was.. Seems the long trip to Vegas left me with a looser pedal.. We will see.. Think I'm going to take it to the dealer to see what they say about it on friday... I will let you all know! Thank you all again so much

jabo5779 09-03-2016 10:05 AM

My dealer said, "The clutch in this car is tricky. Don't worry you will get used to it."

lol

Billibob22 09-03-2016 08:44 PM

Pedal pressure better today... That was exciting.
Engagement point rose slightly.

Billibob22 10-03-2016 08:30 PM

No change. Clutch pressure all good so far with no change in fluid level.


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Ventruck 10-05-2016 03:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billibob22 (Post 3561740)
No change. Clutch pressure all good so far with no change in fluid level.


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Hate to be a **** and/or fear-monger, but the fact you have to be attentive of it kinda makes the point that you should act on the replacement as soon as possible.

When I got my Z, it was a little sooner than I expected because I wanted to be ready to do the cylinder and clutch work off the bat. The car was just too good of a deal.

But anyway, I remember being mad paranoid about failure after knowing how common/inevitable it is, and the nature of how it can spontaneously occur even as soon as rolling off the showroom floor. In the last week before I could finally get the job done, I had some sticky pedal instances. And before that, the car did experience a clutch fluid leak a few hundred miles before under the original owner.

Some shops were like "just wait until it fails". Lol yeah right. Like I'd want to get stranded on the road, pay for the tow, and added downtime vs. just getting it over with on a set day and less spending overall.

Billibob22 10-05-2016 09:20 PM

The Money is there and the problem is noted as it's inevitability is expected. You are fully understood and plans have already been made to replace. I plan on replacing just like the recommendations earlier in this thread. I live in California close to some amazing places and plan on utilizing them accordingly very soon. Heading to Modesto tomorrow we will see how it goes! I thought, due to the prevalence of this issue with the Z, that it would benefit the Z community to chronicle this endeavor. :-)


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Billibob22 11-14-2016 10:51 PM

It's at the dealership now getting the whole 9 yards replaced.
I'll keep you all posted...


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kenchan 11-15-2016 07:33 AM

sucks.. were u able to limp to da dealer or towed? :(

Billibob22 11-15-2016 07:38 AM

Limp.. LOL


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Billibob22 11-15-2016 08:31 PM

$3,380
I went ahead and replaced the whole thing
Guaranteed 3 years 50,000
I'll have it back Thursday

I took the car to San Fran the first Friday of this month to a meeting...
I got to Pleasanton and it went to the floor.
I was prepared
I continued to pump and pull the clutch off of the floor until I got there...
On the drive home same thing
Repeated the pumping and pulling off of the floor with moments of pressure in between...
Got it home
Replaced fluid
Got through about a week with pressure
Took it to the appointment this last Saturday
Pressure tested no good in both master and slave
Pedal on floor by now, completely failed
We will see Thursday!


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Chuck33079 11-15-2016 08:39 PM

That seems expensive. What setup did you go with?

Billibob22 11-16-2016 09:18 PM

The whole shabang
They are replacing everything I elected to stick to Nissan
Some of the list:
Clutch
Fly Wheel
CSC
Clutch Master
all fluids/gaskets/labor of course
Coolant flush
Leaking coolant line replacement $280 alone
Power steering fluid
There is more ill have a list tomorrow night when its done and pictures stay tuned
My hope is that this thread will help anyone who is new to the Z and needs to know what to possibly expect... stay tuned. :-)


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