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Originally Posted by BehindSpace Stick with OEM and the warranty brother. Ignore the noise, you dont need to justify your decision to others. This is terrible advice. We're telling him
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#1 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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Location: Houston
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This is terrible advice. We're telling him to use cheaper, less failure prone parts. You're telling him to overpay for garbage. Given that you told people 320 degree oil temps and 10k oil change intervals are ok, maybe you should not be in the advice business.
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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent Last edited by Chuck33079; 11-17-2016 at 02:07 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) | |
Base Member
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I think i give outstanding advise. oil coolers that dont let the oil get to over 212 do more harm than good and limp mode is too low if its at 280 it shud be raised to 320 like other manufacturers, the car needs to go to 212 to 300 every time or its not evaporating the moysture |
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#3 (permalink) | |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
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![]() Problem is. The ecu starts to pull timing at around 230F. Oil does NOT have to get to 212F for the moisture in oil for it to boil off. It will start to evaporate at 110F. If you maintain 110F, it will never get moisture. I used to work with equipment that had 7,000 gal oil systems. Engineered the bugs out of the systems. Mustangs, and Vette C7 Z06's have a high oil temp problems too. Chevy quite selling the Z06 until they can figure a fix.
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