Oh yes I have...
Theres lots of people talking about the CSC failure..
Huge difference changin the fluid out for sure
I will keep you all posted on what happens
Looks like 430$ for the CSC and 75$ for the master... Here's hoping it makes it through the holidays the first of the year would be the best time for me to replace given the cost !

You should consider a clutch and flywheel at th same time. It's pretty much the same labor and there's a good chance your oem clutch will be ruined from fluid leaking on it. Just call Joe at ZSpeed or Jon at Z1 and they'll get you set up.

Loose clutch petal
 

What about the elimination kit? It would seem like the best way to go right? Who wants to keep having this problem??
Are those places local to me? Im in central California close to Fresno...
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...qov5b2htghic27

You won't keep having this problem with the aftermarket csc unless you buy a garbage clutch like a Spec.

No idea if they're local, but they're the best places to call for this.

Been thinking about this alot lately and honestly I'm sorry I bought this Z.. It's sad that Nissan puts such shitty parts on Zs and expects people to just have a small fortune to fix them... Definitely not a happy Z owner at this point... Bogus..

I agree.

So if you bought the car to mod it hold out until you have enough to do a complete solution plus whatever else you were thinking of doing to save money on the labor.

I have my car in the shop going FI, so I did the Specialty Z clutch/flywheel with Tilton Racing CSC (all comes as a package) from Fast Intentions website. Plus an RJM performance Master cylinder and and RJM's updated pedal (although I already had his old pedal).

Don't piecemeal this, you will lose out in the end. Once you do an upgraded CSC or CSC delete kit the next weakest link is the master cylinder and if you do a CSC upgrade or delete without a clutch I'm not too sure how that is going to hold up.

Do as much as you can at one time and save money. If you never intended to upgrade the car, now is the time to get out cause you are looking at a $2500 bill including labor if you go with what I mentioned above and you might have to revert to trade in depending on how much you do. Nothing is going to give you the piece of mind like doing the whole system, that's why I did it this way.

Thank you for your wisdom. I learned a new word today! Piecemeal, never heard that before today.. Honestly! I love it!
I will continue to update this thread as this CSC situation develops. It's not like I cannot afford this its the principle of the whole thing.... Thank you again for responding. Much MUCH appreciated... :-)

How long does the gravity bleed take? Do you just open the bleed bolt and let the fluid flow out?

Yes, that is what a gravity bleed is. How long it takes varies with how old the fluid is. Gravity bleeding is usually not quick but it does work. Make sure that you monitor the reservoir and don't let it run out. It doesn't hold very much fluid so it will need watching.

I myself, use a vacuum bleeder. It works and has been working for the past 15 years. https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...fType=&from=fn

This tool can be used for lots of car work.

OP, replace your master cylinder (CMC) before you mess with dropping the transmission and the CSC. It's cheaper and might actually temporarily solve your soft pedal. But as mentioned previously, start saving because the CSC will eventually fail. You can wait for it to fail and get stranded on the side of the road (since CSC failure is almost always catastrophic) or you can do it preemptively whenever you're ready.

I'm not a big fan of vacuum bleeding because it relies on having a good seal between the bleeder threads. While it's unlikely it'll introduce more air into the system, the bubbles visible may be deceiving because of a poor seal. Too many poor experiences with the mityvac tool in years past.

The fluid in my car wasn't too old, a bit over a year. The level in the reservoir went down fairly quick. I refilled when it got to the min mark. Went through about 5 or 6 refills like that in the course of about 5 min.

Jabo has the right idea. Go ahead and replace the whole system if you really don't want to worry about it.. Mine is in the shop right now getting new a clutch / flywheel, insulated line, RJM master cylinder, RJM pedal assembly, and zspeeds new CMAK kit (addresses the csc issue and moves the slave to the outside of the bell housing similar to late model fords). At the very least, it looks like your fluid could use a change.

The clutch system on these cars suck and I don't want to have to worry about anything failing again. RJM /zspeed/ z1 wouldn't make these products if there wasn't a need!

According to the FSM, it says...

NOTE:
Do not use a vacuum assist or any other type of power bleeder on this system. Use of vacuum assist or power
bleeder will not purge all the air from the system.

Excellent thank all of you so much!
Update:
Since the system was blead and new fluid put in, fluid level has not changed in 3 days driving to work. The fluid itself has not changed at all. The pedal is still loose but less loose, just slightly, since the fluid change. Definitely not what it once was.. Seems the long trip to Vegas left me with a looser pedal.. We will see.. Think I'm going to take it to the dealer to see what they say about it on friday... I will let you all know! Thank you all again so much

My dealer said, "The clutch in this car is tricky. Don't worry you will get used to it."

lol