Hi all. Looking at upgrading my base to Akebonos (Z1 package or comparable) I was curious if anyone who has done this could offer some advice. 1. I will be
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08-09-2016, 05:08 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Questions for anyone that upgraded base brakes to Akebonos
Hi all. Looking at upgrading my base to Akebonos (Z1 package or comparable)
I was curious if anyone who has done this could offer some advice. 1. I will be getting new Z1 SS lines, and Sport dust shields, are there any other random pieces I will still need not included in the kit? 2. I need to confirm whether the stock base caliper brackets will accommodate the larger Akebono caliper or if I need to order new ones. 3. Has anyone had to run spacers as a result of upgrading the brakes? (I ended up getting S-Tune Nismo wheels that I planned to use as my track set. These should be friendly enough for the Akebono's but I was a little concerned with clearance up front.) Thanks in advance for your input! |
08-10-2016, 01:09 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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1. You need new banjo bolts I think (z1 sells them).
2. They should bolt on. 3. Depends on the offsets. Sport wheels and Nismo.wheels shouldn't have any clearance issues since they're meant to fit with the akebono gear. |
08-12-2016, 09:38 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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I read on another thread in here that there is a difference in what is needed for new brake lines.
If you get the non-premium ss lines it's easier and doesn't require banjo? If you get premium ss lines it doesn't require additional parts because it comes with them but harder to install? Which is the better way to go when upgrading from base? Also regarding the sport rotor shields, how difficult are these to install? Does it require removing additional parts besides brakes and rotors? Would you recommend the slotted/cross drilled rotors from Z1 or another brand than the machined factory blanks? |
08-12-2016, 10:52 PM | #5 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Not sure exactly what is needed but this is a pic of what comes with the Z1 kit which should give you a good idea. Banjo bolts and SS lines, dust shields are an option.
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08-15-2016, 12:01 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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According to the service manual the brake boosters are the same on both sport and base models.
primary diaphragm diameter are both 9.06" secondary diaphragm diameter are both 8.07" its on page BR-64 Factory Service Manuals - NICO Club |
08-15-2016, 07:44 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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So on the Z1 page it lists if you have a base to buy the non-premium SS lines when converting to sport calipers.
How difficult is it to cut the rotor shields on the car? Is rather not remove them if it requires messing with the hub/bearing. Also as OP listed is all you need just the SS lines, Rotors, Calipers, Pads, and Brake Fluid? |
08-16-2016, 05:34 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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I upgraded mine from the base brakes, it wasn't hard. I did buy the sport brake dust shields and once I saw what I needed to do to install them, I cut the base ones lol. I just snipped the part that is folded over and folded them straight, so now the stock dust shield is just a flat piece, which you don't notice really since they are about the same diameter as the sport rotors, but you can see them if you are really looking up close. And you will need to trim the shields a little to fit the sport calipers, but thats pretty easy with shears and pliers. I bought mine through Concept Z Performance, I wanted the DBA rotors which I really like. One thing that might be good is use locktite on the bolts that hold the calipers in, Im pretty sure it were used from the factory. I didn't with mine, every time i get under my car I recheck those bolts, locktite would be good for piece of mind.
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08-23-2016, 12:07 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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I just installed the Z1 Akebono kit a couple of weeks ago. Call Z1 and talk to Robert and he will set you up with everything you need.
I would not get the sport shields, they are a royal PITA to install. You have to remove the hub and bearing block which I did and totally regret it. I now have pretty black shields that no one will ever see. Do like Ryguy did and cut the base shields with some tin snips and do some bending with pliers. If you do decide on installing the sport shields, plan on adding about three hours to the job. Getting to the bearing block bolts inside of the hub was, lets say, VERY DIFFICULT. My hand cramped several times during that ordeal. The good news is that the brakes are soooo worth it. Wow, great linear feel and fantastic stopping power.
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! Last edited by TBatt; 12-14-2017 at 09:12 AM. |
08-23-2016, 12:15 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Don't bother with the premium SS lines either. The banjo bolts are a pain and just another potential leak point. I have stock sport brakes and dumped the banjo bolts when I installed the Z1 non-premium SS brake lines. It is a better configuration and makes the install much easier
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08-24-2016, 01:59 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Do not use threadlock on the caliper mounting bolts. They never had it originally, so don't add it.
The Akebono's have the mounting bracket designed into the caliper, as they are fixed and not sliding like the base brakes. What pads are you going with? I will recommend looking at the Endless MX-72's for a daily driver pad that also sees some spirited driving or the occasional track day. Any stock wheel that came on the 370Z will fit the Akebono's. Even the base 18's. Every other question or thing you need to worry about has been covered above. |
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