Stance does well in the super low group, but they also do extremely well in the higher performance driving with their Pro Comp 2's. Another friend of mine just ordered a set, so I will be waiting for his review of them. But I know they do really well in certain time attack cars, with a couple of them being 370's. They also don't drop the car ridiculously low out of the box, and they are fully adjustable.

On the spring location topic, you can specify the spring rates you want to get the ride quality you're looking for. If you want a smooth ride, you can get softer rates and have them valved accordingly.

KW will no longer re-valve the V3's to a different spring rate since everyone was doing that and not buying their Clubsport coils. They would serve you very well, and they would be a great choice.

Better check your information. Unless they made a big change, AST shocks are true type coilovers in the rear and therefor use a different spring location.

Yes Stance carries a wide range of coil overs but Pro Comp II are the best for hard core tracking. There are a few on the forum that run them djtodd for one and he really like them.

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There is also a guy who works for Vengence Road Racing that runs them on his car. He was at the Global Time Attack event at Road Atlanta last weekend. I wasn't there to ask him what all he had done to the car, but from the live stream, it sounded and looked good.

Back on topic, Stance would be a good choice over the V3's IMO.

djtodd generally competes in that event. He has a build thread and some awesome videos.

Hmm thanks for the heads up I thought I saw they used the oem spring location. Well that's a bummer, not sure I like the idea of transferring that load to the shock towers when it wasn't intended to be there. Well **** maybe I'm all out of options and won't change from oem, nothing really matches the criteria I'm after. Maybe just go koni yellows when the oe wears out, I'll get the rebound damping but no corner balancing.

Quick question though, where did you find the info on needing to rebuild the shocks? Is that bc people with this suspension are usually tracking them or do they truly need to be rebuilt that often?

My 2 cents...maybe I used the word "rebuild" too loosely. What I meant was servicing the shocks. It can be as simple as changing out the shock oils. And in the longer run, especially if shocks are exposed to high heat (engine heat + lots of rapid movements from aggressive driving), I think seals and shims have to be replaced. On nitrogen filled shocks, you should service when shock does not return to its original position on its own (test when shock is off the car, simplify push in and see if it goes back on its own).

I am unsure just exactly how often a service should be performed. Pro race teams check them as often as every session. Some say race tracks usage is the most punishing. Some say uneven road is equally bad. Some says a service is warranted when the adjustment knobs no longer provide the desired changes (like turning it a few position and car still feels the same).

I've seen pictures of high end shocks with oil all gunked up. I think it's best to raise this question to the manufacturer, and also get opinion from rebuilds shop. I just wanna make sure you factor this into your long term expectation.

Best of luck. I feel excited even tho I'm not the one buying haha.

I believe inboard spring makes it harder to properly match spring rate to the shock valving, and that's why "true" coil-over-spring setup is preferred. Please feel free to chime in if I'm incorrect.

As far as the rear spring location, there's a discussion in he below thread

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...ion-users.html

Check out Fortune Auto 500's. Fortune Auto offers custom spring rates and are digressive as well. They will service and rebuild. I have them and they are very nice. I will probably change out my springs when I decide to anything other than drive on the road lol.

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Yea I saw that before. It's good to know it can be done but I just don't feel confident about it. It's an expensive car for me and I don't want to be having it disabled while still making payments cause the rear tower got screwed up etc. it's a much simpler design and probably cheaper too so it makes me question why the oem didn't go that route. If you've ever worked in the bizz if there is a cheaper way for a manufacture to do something you can garantee they will do it that way.

Any idea what their min drop is? Also did you go with the stock 11k/8k setup? How harsh is that? Seems I can move up or down 2k through most venders and stick is basically 8/8 so if I go 10/8 I can still drop to 8/8 if 10 is too harsh but 11 is just out of that ability.

Another thing to think about. If you are running big meats on the rear. :D How much clearance is there between the top of the tire and the coilover? Camber plays an important part in this too. More camber, less clearance.

I am not sure, but I'm lowered about an inch maybe a little more. Here is pic of my Nismo next to a stock one.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...e03fa034ed.jpg

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Also I know it is not at the top of the highest settings.

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