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Car Shaking
Edit: Dealer found out it had something to do with my steering wheel. Issue resolved. Thanks!
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A few things to check:
1) Tire balance 2) Proper torque on the lug nuts 3) Calipers hanging up 4) Rubber hoses collapsing 5) Wheel bearings Given the mileage on your car, I kind of doubt #3, 4 & 5 are causing you problems, however, anything is possible. It really only leaves 1 & 2 as possible issues. Here's what I know for sure about brakes and turning rotors... a fundamentally bad idea. Most places turn them down to minimums and first time you have to stand on the brakes, they warp and are NFG. Since you have replaced the rotors and pads, it is possible you got a bad rotor but it would have shown up right away. That really leaves lug nuts and did they get the wheels put back on right. I have heard that some of the pre 2012 models have a pin in the front hub that has to be lined up with the appropriate hole in the wheel before mounting. I don't recall if mine has that or not, but it bears looking into. GL :) |
Mostly is warped rotor.
at what moment does the steering wheel shake when you brake? high speed around 60+mph or when it's approaching to a dead-stop? if it shakes at 60+mph, it's 80% the rotor |
I've had this twice on my 2011 (RIP....) and I suspect it was uneven brake pad deposits. Each time, having the rotors turned resolved the issue. I've suspected upgrading my pads would eliminate the issue, but you have already done that. Perhaps you need to try a different pad?
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I'd check your tires, wheels, then suspension. I serious doubt that it's the brakes at this point.
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Thanks for the input guys. I spoke to a good friend of mine who suggested it was my caliper. The front left caliper did leak a little. Could that be the issue? Im scheduling an appointment with the dealership to check it out. Thanks again for the input.
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Pad deposits most likely - brakes need a spanking !!
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Firstly any amount of brake fluid leaking is very serious...you must repair ASAP. Next although you've turned and changed rotors if the hubs and rotor mating surfaces aren't clean you'll have problems. Not torquing the wheels progressively in the correct sequence and of course accurately can cause warping. Many shops are guilty of "banging" wheels back on. Play in the wheel bearings are ball joints and front tie rods can translate into shaking during braking. Of course wheel spacers can greatly amplify any of those issues. Let us know what happens and good luck.
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Do you have aftermarket wheels? Of the answer is yes, do you have hub-centric rings?
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The fact that the symptoms keep returning lead me to believe it is a problem with some kind of buildup on the rotor face(s). The leaking caliper may be allowing fluid onto the face (the caliper has been leaking for a LONG time if this is the case). Maybe the way you use the brakes is causing a quick buildup of pad material.
Most of the other suggestions I've seen in this thread would be immediately apparent and not take a while to show up. YMMV |
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I think this is your rotor... resurfacing sports rotors aren't the best idea since the problem is usually going to come back. there was another thread a few weeks back where Jar gave a good run down on what to or not do. tl/dr/can't find -> brake more evenly, don't press too hard when at a stand still, don't drive through puddles intentionally (hot rotors + cold water = bad) btw I had a similar vibration in the pedal/wheel but only between 60 to 50. it would disappear in low speed scenario's. swapped the rotors and pads. |
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