Hey guys, I have a 2012 with the sport package with the sport package brake system. What would you recommend for strong rotors and pads for some serious hard braking.
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01-20-2016, 01:54 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Threshold Braking
Hey guys,
I have a 2012 with the sport package with the sport package brake system. What would you recommend for strong rotors and pads for some serious hard braking. I go to Autoclub Speedway in Fontana,CA where there are several 100+mph to 40mph braking. I was looking at StopTech Slotted Rotors with their ceramic pads. I already have Motul Dot4 Brake fluid. Thanks! Ben
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01-20-2016, 02:06 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Rotors are the last thing of the items you list that will make a difference. Blanks would likely be fine.
If you are truly threshold braking, I wouldn't go with ceramic pads. I would start with the Carbotech XP 10/8 for front/rear. I don't have personal experience with them, but from what I've read that's what you want. And I would go with more track-oriented brake fluid. Motul RBF600 is a popular fluid and very reasonably priced. Also, if you are truly threshold braking from 100+ down to 40 mph multiple times on each lap, even these upgrades won't necessarily be enough. Ice mode is common, and you may find yourself needing to introduce cooling to the brakes via ducting. Ultimately, it will depend on your driving skill level
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2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic | ARC | CJM | Ecutek | FI | Fujimura | R2C | SPL | Stillen | TWM | Z1 | ZSpeed | Last edited by JARblue; 01-20-2016 at 02:29 PM. Reason: corrected pads suggestion |
01-20-2016, 04:20 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Yep The Z1 brake kit with Carbotech upgrade pads is a good deal and will give you what you need for good stopping power. Adding ducts is a good idea too.
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01-20-2016, 06:58 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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The Akebono's don't hold up well to heat, I've already had to rebuild mine once. Ducting will be very helpful especially with repeated 140-40mph braking coming off of the oval. I recommend Castrol SRF brake fluid, it's pricey, but you won't have to bleed it. You might also want to look into titanium heat shields (Hard Brakes - Titanium Brake Backing Plates, Brake Shims, Brake Heat Shields) as an inexpensive way to provide some extra protection for your seals and fluid.
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01-20-2016, 08:35 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Great insight! Thank you guys
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308 rwhp | 252 rwtq | Fast Intentions CBE 18" Res | Stillen Gen 3 CAI | EcuTek Tune | Stoptech Slotted Rotors and Sport Pads | KW V3 Coilovers | SPL Upper Control Arms & Lower Rear Arms | Seibon CF TS Hood | Vossen CVT | SPC Toe bolts |
01-20-2016, 09:03 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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If you are gonna go with expensive fluids like motul 600 or even SRF, you should get ss brake lines, help prevent moisture getting into the brake fluid...the wet boiling point is much lower than than the dry boiling point, better to try keeping the fluid "dry". Although that does matter less with the SRF.
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01-21-2016, 01:47 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Brake ducts with 2" min hose diameter. The bigger, the better. Ti heat shields. Motul 600 is the min brake fluid you want to run. Stainless brake lines. Carbo 10/8 pads combination. I also run the Racing Brake 2 piece brake rotors. Guys like to run blanks because they are cheap to replace. With the sport brake calipers, Akebono's will show some leakage from the bleed nipples if you got them really hot. It will be a streak running down the caliper from the nipple.
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