Hey guys, I need your help. I upgraded my rotors, brake lines (to stainless steel lines), calipers (from base to sports), pads (to stop tech) and bled the brake lines
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12-27-2015, 12:34 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Pedal Engaging Low help!!!
Hey guys, I need your help. I upgraded my rotors, brake lines (to stainless steel lines), calipers (from base to sports), pads (to stop tech) and bled the brake lines 3 times. I can not get away from the pedal engaging low before the brakes are starting to apply. I have to push the brakes down 2 inches before they engage and will stop more the farther i push. I bled the system 3 times with a motive power bleeder at 15psi with Valvoline synthetic and got all the air out but did not bleed the abs module with a scan tool (I was reading that the abs module may have air in it). The brakes will stop fine once engaged, no lights are on on the dash. Master cylinder isn't leaking or anything. Is it necessary to take the car to a dealer for the abs module to be bled? The brake booster seems to be fine, I'm doing a psi test on it tomorrow, the rpms don't drop or anything when i push the brakes. I checked all the lines and there are no leaks. Also i got the calipers rebuilt and had to leave the brake lines off for a month while a waiting on my powdercoater to give the calipers back (this didn't help lol) , I'm not sure if air got into the module or what happened. Any help would be appreciated. The main problem I am having is that the pedal doesn't want to engage the brakes until it is pushed down 2 inches, almost all the way to the floor. The harder i push the pedal, the more stopping power i have
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12-27-2015, 12:45 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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If you pump the brakes does it feel like it builds pressure?
If so you need to bleed them. Also dumb question, But while you bled the brakes did you have the parking brake engaged? |
12-27-2015, 12:46 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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With the car off it does build pressure. The parking brake was not engaged at all times
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12-27-2015, 12:50 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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I bled with the motive power bleeder two times and one time I did a manual two person bleed
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12-27-2015, 12:54 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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Yea, Somehow you may still have air in one the lines or the master cylinder needs to be bled also.
I would just make sure to not let the reservoir fall below half. Did you install NEW or used Pads? If used? The pads may need to be replaced. |
12-27-2015, 12:56 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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If the ABS unit needs to be bled separately from the brakes, the procedure should be in the FSM.
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12-27-2015, 12:56 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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They are brand new pads. I'll try a master cylinder bleed. The thing is that the car sat for a month with no calipers and the line dangling with all the fluid leaked out. It sat for a month with the reservoir completely empty.
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12-27-2015, 12:57 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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I looked at my manual today but I believe it has to be bled in a sequence with a obd2 tool that I can't get over the counter.
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12-27-2015, 01:02 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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Thanks for trying to help bro
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12-27-2015, 01:08 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Assuming it's not the ABS module (I've never heard of anyone having to bleed the ABS unit on a car, but I'm no expert), it sounds like air somewhere. But you seem to have enough mechanical aptitude to bleed brakes properly, so that's probably not it.
The only other thing I can think of is that maybe a piston seal in the MC was damaged when the system was empty. The FSM usually has diagnostic procedures for troubleshooting. But they often require the use of Nissan's software (I forget what it's called). Worth taking another look.
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12-27-2015, 01:09 AM | #12 (permalink) |
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Thanks bro, I'll check again in the service manual
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12-27-2015, 02:09 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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Still no luck lol, I'll check the booster tomorrow again
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12-27-2015, 01:09 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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I'm gonna try that today, any ideas on how to do it without taking it off the car?
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