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New Brake Bleed Order ?

so general rule of thumb is to go furthest from the master cylinder to the closest which is: RR→RL→FR→FL OR service manual: RR→ FL → RL → and FR but

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Old 12-19-2015, 11:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default New Brake Bleed Order ?

so general rule of thumb is to go furthest from the master cylinder to the closest

which is:
RR→RL→FR→FL

OR

service manual:
RR→ FL → RL → and FR


but looks like RL is actually the furthest line away from the master cylinder.






so shouldn't it really be RL first?

RL→RR→FR→FL

just having too much time on my hand
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Old 12-20-2015, 07:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Interesting... I'm curious to hear opinions, I would probably agree with you on this. I'm not experienced enough to give a definite yes or no answer.
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Old 12-20-2015, 08:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I have not had my brake bleeding order ever make a difference in my cars performance. Just be sure to flush ENOUGH.

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Old 12-20-2015, 10:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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My experience has been the same as osbornsm - order is not important, you just need to make sure you do a good flush on each leg. But I haven't worked on any brakes newer than about 1996, so maybe something has changed in the last twenty years.
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Old 12-20-2015, 01:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I was informed a number of years ago (… and this may not apply to the 370Z) that the brake system is comprised of two separate sets of lines, with the front and rear lines configured to be diagonally independent … so if there is a failure in one set of lines, you will still have braking power (… albeit reduced) both front and back. So the idea is to bleed one set of lines completely … either RR and FL or RL and FR), beginning with the longer rear line, and then turn to the diagonally opposite set of lines, again beginning with the rear line.
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Old 12-20-2015, 02:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I always bleed Front and Rear in pairs. Order is really not a big deal. I normally do front and then rear. That way I do not flush all the dirty fluid out of the MC all the way through to the rear.
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Old 12-20-2015, 03:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Doesn't matter what order you go in. Long as you DON'T let the reservoir go dry! For sport brakes. I go RR inner, RR outer. LR inner, LR outer. RF inner, RF outer. LF inner, LF outer.
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Doesn't matter what order you go in. Long as you DON'T let the reservoir go dry! For sport brakes. I go RR inner, RR outer. LR inner, LR outer. RF inner, RF outer. LF inner, LF outer.
thanks. one question though, when you have another person pump the brakes and then squeeze(for you to open the bleeder valve), are they supposed to pump the brake as hard as they can if the brakes are rock hard at engine off? it feels like i'm going to burst the lines due to so much pressure being applied. interestingly, my brake line is started to leak. not on the caliper side, but the lines running right above the steering rack(which is extremely hard to locate because it's hidden and covered by the chassis bracing, etc)
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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When using 2 people. I have the person inside pump the pedal 3 times and hold down. Don't need a whole lot of pressure. Then I crack the bleeder open. I make sure that they push the pedal all the way down and hold it there. Then I close the bleeder and then repeat until the air is out of the line. Then move on to the next position.

Check your fluid often.

I also put a piece of clear tubing over the bleeder so that I can see the fluid coming out and direct it to a catch bottle.

On high mileage cars. I put a 2x4 under the pedal. You don't want to push the pedal all the way down. The reason is that the master cylinder bore is worn, and pushing the pedal all the way will rip the the o-rings on the piston in the bore.

You will have to find your leak. Did you spill any fluid when you was adding fluid?
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
When using 2 people. I have the person inside pump the pedal 3 times and hold down. Don't need a whole lot of pressure. Then I crack the bleeder open. I make sure that they push the pedal all the way down and hold it there. Then I close the bleeder and then repeat until the air is out of the line. Then move on to the next position.

Check your fluid often.

I also put a piece of clear tubing over the bleeder so that I can see the fluid coming out and direct it to a catch bottle.

On high mileage cars. I put a 2x4 under the pedal. You don't want to push the pedal all the way down. The reason is that the master cylinder bore is worn, and pushing the pedal all the way will rip the the o-rings on the piston in the bore.

You will have to find your leak. Did you spill any fluid when you was adding fluid?
it would be a lie if i said i never spilled fluid(in the brake reservoir compartment.but not recently.
i actually found what seems to be RBF600 underneath the steering rack area which is furthur down than where i spilled. it's been constantly dripping and the underside is drenched with goldish fluid. (mind you that i've been mysteriously wondering why the brake reservoir level has been decreasing slowly..) from the smell i'm certain its the brake fluid.


is the thinner line the brake line? that's where it seems to leak




last pic is to give you a reference where the leak is:
its somewhere ~around between the steering rack and chassis bracing


Last edited by street2soul; 12-20-2015 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Spray the area with a cleaner and wipe clean. Have someone pump the brakes and you looking to see if anything is leaking. If you can't see. Then keep an eye on it.
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Spray the area with a cleaner and wipe clean. Have someone pump the brakes and you looking to see if anything is leaking. If you can't see. Then keep an eye on it.
i'll do that. if i see something interesting, will make my last visit to the dealership.. warranty expiring in 2 months!
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Old 12-22-2015, 08:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by street2soul View Post
it would be a lie if i said i never spilled fluid(in the brake reservoir compartment.but not recently.
i actually found what seems to be RBF600 underneath the steering rack area which is furthur down than where i spilled. it's been constantly dripping and the underside is drenched with goldish fluid. (mind you that i've been mysteriously wondering why the brake reservoir level has been decreasing slowly..) from the smell i'm certain its the brake fluid.


is the thinner line the brake line? that's where it seems to leak




last pic is to give you a reference where the leak is:
its somewhere ~around between the steering rack and chassis bracing

reviving this.. just so people don't get confused.
this is the power steering line leak. I traced the line all the way back to the power steering reservoir. seal must be leaking..
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:01 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 40 to 332 View Post
I was informed a number of years ago (… and this may not apply to the 370Z) that the brake system is comprised of two separate sets of lines, with the front and rear lines configured to be diagonally independent … so if there is a failure in one set of lines, you will still have braking power (… albeit reduced) both front and back. So the idea is to bleed one set of lines completely … either RR and FL or RL and FR), beginning with the longer rear line, and then turn to the diagonally opposite set of lines, again beginning with the rear line.
This no longer applies to any modern car. All cars 2012 and after are mandated to have stability control, which means they need a 4 channel ABS system to control each corner independently. A 4 channel ABS system means there is a hydraulic brake line from each caliper to the ABS pump. Most cars had a 4 channel ABS by the mid 2000's and all 370z have had it.
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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indeed. if you look at the diagram, all lines to the calipers are independent.
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