I'm kinda lost too. My understanding is toe is always in inches; camber in degrees. What's with the degrees on the display for toe? Your rear camber shows red, meaning
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09-29-2015, 05:21 AM | #16 (permalink) |
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Lost
I'm kinda lost too. My understanding is toe is always in inches; camber in degrees. What's with the degrees on the display for toe?
Your rear camber shows red, meaning it's outside of the stock spec. I was told to run zero toe on the front, a little on the rear and get the rear camber around -1.5 to -1.7-ish to minimize tire wear. Without adjustable camber on the front, you get what you get. I'm not saying they are the be all end all, but what I wound up with is in a thread here somewhere. 104 |
09-29-2015, 06:24 AM | #17 (permalink) |
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You dead on Zipper; this is chart for the rear-note full of fuel...the more weight in the rear,the more negative camber it will have.
My factory eccentric bolts are turned to max positive camber & still @ -1.7* Gotta keep that +toe in rear/ very important on these cars.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1443522222.459999.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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09-29-2015, 04:26 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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I use .25 total rear toe and -2.4 camber all around but that's a more aggressive setup. I would adjust the camber closer to stock. I know you track that loud thing sometimes, but as others in here mentioned, it might eat your tires a bit faster (depending on driving habits, tire compound, etc).
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