Is This Normal W/New Brakes?

2009_370z · 09-03-2015, 02:08 PM

Hey guys,

So a few weeks ago, I upgraded my brakes with some slotted rotors, SS brakelines, pads and fluid. In the morning when I go to work, the first few minutes of driving the car, when I fully press on the brake pedal, my brakes make a really loud noise but then stops later on. Is that normal? Is that part of the break in period?

Thanks.

RN SHARK · 09-03-2015, 02:42 PM

Did you bed your pads? If so, how? What compound are you using? Many more questions.

binary0x01 · 09-03-2015, 03:46 PM

Shouldn't be happening.

2009_370z · 09-03-2015, 03:52 PM

No, I didn't bed my pads. How should I do it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by RN SHARK

Did you bed your pads? If so, how? What compound are you using? Many more questions.

2009_370z · 09-03-2015, 03:53 PM

Does that mean I bought faulty parts or who did my install did a bad job?

Quote:

Originally Posted by binary0x01

Shouldn't be happening.

osbornsm · 09-03-2015, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2009_370z

Hey guys,

So a few weeks ago, I upgraded my brakes with some slotted rotors, SS brakelines, pads and fluid. In the morning when I go to work, the first few minutes of driving the car, when I fully press on the brake pedal, my brakes make a really loud noise but then stops later on. Is that normal? Is that part of the break in period?

Thanks.

Bedding New Brake Pads

1. Make sure all parts are installed correctly
2. Go for a drive on a road without other motorists
3. Accelerate to 60, brake with moderate pressure down to 20 mph
4. Repeat step 3 approximately four times
5. Drive home without further hard stops
6. Allow brakes to cool overnight WITHOUT using the e-brake

2009_370z · 09-03-2015, 05:24 PM

Thanks for this!! I'm going to do this and see what happens.

Quote:

Originally Posted by osbornsm

Bedding New Brake Pads

1. Make sure all parts are installed correctly
2. Go for a drive on a road without other motorists
3. Accelerate to 60, brake with moderate pressure down to 20 mph
4. Repeat step 3 approximately four times
5. Drive home without further hard stops
6. Allow brakes to cool overnight WITHOUT using the e-brake

tonythetiger · 09-03-2015, 05:50 PM

i know theres certain pads that will squeak on a cold start...

2009_370z · 09-03-2015, 06:49 PM

I have the posi quiet pads.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonythetiger

i know theres certain pads that will squeak on a cold start...

gomer_110 · 09-03-2015, 08:46 PM

Is there any surface rust on the rotors when you first get to the car in the morning? If there is then that is most likely the cause. Initially you're grinding off the surface rust which is causing the noise. Once it's gone the noise goes away.

POS VETT · 09-04-2015, 06:51 AM

Check the pads, make sure none were installed with backing plate against the rotor.

zefaulter · 09-04-2015, 07:55 AM

I've heard you can sand the pads a little too instead of doing the drive

efuseakay · 09-05-2015, 12:11 PM

Before you bed them in, do as POS said. Double check to make sure the pads weren't installed with the shims against the rotors.

SouthArk370Z · 09-05-2015, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osbornsm

Bedding New Brake Pads
...
6. Allow brakes to cool overnight WITHOUT using the e-brake

Why no e-brake? Isn't it a separate drum/shoe system? Or has my memory gotten worse than I thought?

gomer_110 · 09-05-2015, 10:38 PM

It is a separate system but it's still a common rotor/e-brake drum used by both. That's one block of iron that's hot and needs to cool without picking up an uneven friction material deposit.

09-03-2015, 02:08 PM	#1 (permalink)
2009_370z Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: BAY AREA Posts: 297 Drives: 09 370Z MPB 7AT Rep Power: 11	Is This Normal W/New Brakes? Hey guys, So a few weeks ago, I upgraded my brakes with some slotted rotors, SS brakelines, pads and fluid. In the morning when I go to work, the first few minutes of driving the car, when I fully press on the brake pedal, my brakes make a really loud noise but then stops later on. Is that normal? Is that part of the break in period? Thanks. __________________ *SEIBON/EVO-R/AAM COMPETITION/TSW WHEELS/MICHELIN/Z1/EBC*

09-03-2015, 02:42 PM	#2 (permalink)
RN SHARK Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Delafield, WI Age: 44 Posts: 618 Drives: 09 370Z, 14 SRT GC Rep Power: 35	Did you bed your pads? If so, how? What compound are you using? Many more questions. __________________ ___________ '09 6sp/Z1/PowerTrix/SPL/Swift/SRP/Whiteline/F.I.LTH&CBE/UpRev by Seb/CJM/Stillen/Ings+1/RJM/TrackSpec/Sparco/Motul/Wavetrac/Coolerworx/Verus/CraftSquare '14 SRT Grand Cherokee; '08 TL Type-S

09-03-2015, 03:46 PM	#3 (permalink)
binary0x01 Track Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Idaho Posts: 892 Drives: 2012 6-SPEED 3.7L Z Rep Power: 14	Shouldn't be happening. __________________ Tune (by Seb@SpecialtyZ) -- Upgraded Parts List : When in doubt, use brute force; if it doesn't work, you aren't using enough.

09-03-2015, 05:50 PM	#8 (permalink)
tonythetiger A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: SA, TX Posts: 1,035 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z PG MT Rep Power: 193	i know theres certain pads that will squeak on a cold start... __________________ KWV3/Eibach/StillenG3/FI CBE+LTH+34Row/Uprev/SPL/SouthBendSS/QuaifeLSD/4.08/TommyKaira/Status/VolkZE40/AP Radical BBK/Seibon/Amuse/VIS/Sparco/WorksBellGTC/RJM/Nismo

09-03-2015, 08:46 PM	#10 (permalink)
gomer_110 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Perrysburg, OH Posts: 17,992 Drives: '11 Nismo #528 GM Rep Power: 36941	Is there any surface rust on the rotors when you first get to the car in the morning? If there is then that is most likely the cause. Initially you're grinding off the surface rust which is causing the noise. Once it's gone the noise goes away. carlitos_370z likes this. __________________ '11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Uprev \| CSF \| Zspeed \| Z1 Motorsports \| AST \| Swift \| SPC \| SPL \| Whiteline \| Hotchkis \| Bride \| Schroth \| Robispec \| Cusco \| Nismo \| Volk \| Forgestar \| Hoosier \| RJM '17 Titan Bone Stock

09-04-2015, 06:51 AM	#11 (permalink)
POS VETT Track Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 612 Drives: Z34\|C4LT4\|C6Z06\|V25 Rep Power: 3366	Check the pads, make sure none were installed with backing plate against the rotor.

09-04-2015, 07:55 AM	#12 (permalink)
zefaulter A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 1,983 Drives: 40th 370Z Rep Power: 27	I've heard you can sand the pads a little too instead of doing the drive

09-05-2015, 12:11 PM	#13 (permalink)
efuseakay Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: The DAYNGA ZONE! Posts: 404 Drives: 2010 G37xS Sedan Rep Power: 15	Before you bed them in, do as POS said. Double check to make sure the pads weren't installed with the shims against the rotors.

09-05-2015, 10:38 PM	#15 (permalink)
gomer_110 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Perrysburg, OH Posts: 17,992 Drives: '11 Nismo #528 GM Rep Power: 36941	It is a separate system but it's still a common rotor/e-brake drum used by both. That's one block of iron that's hot and needs to cool without picking up an uneven friction material deposit. osbornsm likes this. __________________ '11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Uprev \| CSF \| Zspeed \| Z1 Motorsports \| AST \| Swift \| SPC \| SPL \| Whiteline \| Hotchkis \| Bride \| Schroth \| Robispec \| Cusco \| Nismo \| Volk \| Forgestar \| Hoosier \| RJM '17 Titan Bone Stock

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