Z1 2 Piece Akebono Rotors - Need help

jsutton2 · 06-27-2015, 11:50 PM

Hello Z community. I just got the car back from getting the front and rear Z1 2 Piece Akebono Rotors on and it doesn't brake like I expected.

With the OEM rotors and pads, just a small amount of pressure and it stopped on a dime, but now with these new rotors and pads, it takes a lot more pressure to come to a complete stop, unlike the OEM did.

To come to a complete stop, I feel like the pressure is way more than it was before. The new set slows me down fine, and that pressure feels about right, but its the coming to a complete stop that doesn't feel right.

I don't know if this is because the "new" hasn't worn off the pads and rotors yet, or if there is air in the lines. I only have about 40-50 miles on them of light braking. Maybe they just didn't bleed the lines well enough or something, but I just don't have a lot of experience with diagnosing the symptoms so I'm looking for input from you guys. Any help/info would be appreciated!

I purchased the sprinkle slotted rotors, and the pads are Hawk (HPS I think).

JC-Nismo · 06-28-2015, 12:42 AM

Can't speak on my Z yet, but I had the same experience with my SRT8, when I swapped out the stock rotors and pads for slotted/cross drilled ones and different pads. Just didn't feel the same and I probably won't touch my Z either based on that.

DEpointfive0 · 06-28-2015, 01:38 AM

Did you clean off the rotors prior to install?
Did you bleed the lines?
Also, new pads/different will not feel the same regardless

Chan Chee Hoe · 06-28-2015, 01:41 AM

i think most slotted/Drilled Discs are good for fast heat removal,won't increase the brake power....for better brake power,you need to upgrade the brake calipers & hoses...

Spooler · 06-28-2015, 02:54 AM

Did you bed the pads in? Biggest mistake that can be made. I have XP8 pads/Z1 2-piece on all 4 corners and it was a handful breaking the pads in. I had to get after it. My car stops great. I am not sure about your pads but XP8's do require a little heat before they come alive. It's the pads that make the most impact on initial bit, etc.

SurfDog · 06-28-2015, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Did you bed the pads in? Biggest mistake that can be made. I have XP8 pads/Z1 2-piece on all 4 corners and it was a handful breaking the pads in. I had to get after it. My car stops great. I am not sure about your pads but XP8's do require a little heat before they come alive. It's the pads that make the most impact on initial bit, etc.

I have Z1 pads and my stops are more like collisions but I definitely had to aggressively bed in the pads

mdxj · 06-28-2015, 10:45 AM

OEM pads and Hawks have a completely different feel. Bed the pads in and see how it feels after that

SurfDog · 06-28-2015, 11:37 AM

I run hawk ceramics in winter and mellow summer driving and run hawk plus pads for the track. I prefer hawk ceramics to OEM but really the OEM are pretty good. The ceramics feel "broken" ie no grab after getting used to hawk plus pads so I agree you should bed your pads and drive em awile to get used to the new feel.

Also bleed your brakes. If there is air in the line your feel will be very weird

wanker · 06-28-2015, 11:38 AM

Bed those brakes.

TreeSemdyZee · 06-28-2015, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wanker

Bed those brakes.

+1

They are going to feel puny for awhile, especially if you didn't follow a "bedding-in" process.

mdxj · 06-28-2015, 12:38 PM

Good description on why to bed in new pads and how. Don't touch your wheels after you do it either. A friend learned that lesson the hard way.

Stock Brake System Bed-in

jsutton2 · 06-28-2015, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Did you bed the pads in? Biggest mistake that can be made. I have XP8 pads/Z1 2-piece on all 4 corners and it was a handful breaking the pads in. I had to get after it. My car stops great. I am not sure about your pads but XP8's do require a little heat before they come alive. It's the pads that make the most impact on initial bit, etc.

How do you bed the pads in? I'm reading different things for different pads. Check on the quote below, and pay special attention to the "Note". I have the blue racking pads I think.

Quote:

HAWK
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

Note: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

jsutton2 · 06-28-2015, 02:40 PM

Found this:

Quote:

Bed-in / Burnishing Instructions
1. After installing new brake pads, make 6-to-10 stops from approximately 30-35 MPH applying moderate pressure.

2. Make an additional 2-to-3 hard stops from approximately 40-45 MPH.

3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!

4. Allow at least 15 minutes for the brake system to cool down.

5. After step 4 is completed, your new Hawk Performance brake pads are ready for use.

Do you guys think I've already messed up by driving on them for 30-40 miles? I had to drive home, and I made a few complete stops... etc.

jsutton2 · 06-28-2015, 02:45 PM

If I have already messed up, is it as simple as getting all new break pads or will the rotors need turned also?

Spooler · 06-28-2015, 02:46 PM

Noop, they are not messed up. Just need to get the proper bed in process and follow it. Since you have racing pads, don't expect them to stop so great when cold. That is normal. They just need heat in them.

Read the link in post 11. It will give you an idea.

It appears you need to do some hard stops from 70mph or so to around 25mph. You'll know when they are bedded in. The brakes will come to you, so to speak.

06-27-2015, 11:50 PM	#1 (permalink)
jsutton2 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Austin Posts: 239 Drives: 2010 370Z Sport Rep Power: 11	Z1 2 Piece Akebono Rotors - Need help Hello Z community. I just got the car back from getting the front and rear Z1 2 Piece Akebono Rotors on and it doesn't brake like I expected. With the OEM rotors and pads, just a small amount of pressure and it stopped on a dime, but now with these new rotors and pads, it takes a lot more pressure to come to a complete stop, unlike the OEM did. To come to a complete stop, I feel like the pressure is way more than it was before. The new set slows me down fine, and that pressure feels about right, but its the coming to a complete stop that doesn't feel right. I don't know if this is because the "new" hasn't worn off the pads and rotors yet, or if there is air in the lines. I only have about 40-50 miles on them of light braking. Maybe they just didn't bleed the lines well enough or something, but I just don't have a lot of experience with diagnosing the symptoms so I'm looking for input from you guys. Any help/info would be appreciated! I purchased the sprinkle slotted rotors, and the pads are Hawk (HPS I think). __________________ 2010 Brilliant Silver 370z Sport - 08/01/2014 - And so it begins...

06-28-2015, 01:38 AM	#3 (permalink)
DEpointfive0 Premium Member Bitches Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: SoCal Posts: 14,824 Drives: a lot Rep Power: 17151	Did you clean off the rotors prior to install? Did you bleed the lines? Also, new pads/different will not feel the same regardless JARblue, BeemaaZ and AntiVenom like this. __________________ Do YOU want to know what/where I got my username from? ( Click to show/hide ) NSFW due to language:

06-28-2015, 02:54 AM	#5 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,834 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Did you bed the pads in? Biggest mistake that can be made. I have XP8 pads/Z1 2-piece on all 4 corners and it was a handful breaking the pads in. I had to get after it. My car stops great. I am not sure about your pads but XP8's do require a little heat before they come alive. It's the pads that make the most impact on initial bit, etc. TreeSemdyZee, Staggered357, SurfDog and 2 others like this. Last edited by Spooler; 06-28-2015 at 02:58 AM.

06-28-2015, 10:45 AM	#7 (permalink)
mdxj Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: OKC Posts: 290 Drives: 09 Nismo, 98 Jeep XJ Rep Power: 14	OEM pads and Hawks have a completely different feel. Bed the pads in and see how it feels after that __________________ '09 370 base - RIP '09 370 Nismo - New track car Last edited by mdxj; 06-28-2015 at 12:10 PM. Reason: removing personal bias

06-28-2015, 11:37 AM	#8 (permalink)
SurfDog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2012 Location: Colorado (9000 feet) Age: 56 Posts: 1,796 Drives: 09 6mt, 13 Sequoia, Rep Power: 15749	I run hawk ceramics in winter and mellow summer driving and run hawk plus pads for the track. I prefer hawk ceramics to OEM but really the OEM are pretty good. The ceramics feel "broken" ie no grab after getting used to hawk plus pads so I agree you should bed your pads and drive em awile to get used to the new feel. Also bleed your brakes. If there is air in the line your feel will be very weird __________________ 09 6spd Berk CBE, JWT cams, ZSpeed CSC, Stillen (25 row oil, brake cooling, sways, gen3 CAI), Passport (9500ci), Quaife LSD, Z1 400 hp kit, ss lines, pads, rotors, clutch etc, Phunk's pan and fuel starve fix

06-28-2015, 12:42 AM	#2 (permalink)
JC-Nismo A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Atlanta Posts: 1,244 Drives: 2011 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 13	Can't speak on my Z yet, but I had the same experience with my SRT8, when I swapped out the stock rotors and pads for slotted/cross drilled ones and different pads. Just didn't feel the same and I probably won't touch my Z either based on that.

06-28-2015, 01:41 AM	#4 (permalink)
Chan Chee Hoe Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Singapore Posts: 861 Drives: 370z,Yellow,7sp A Rep Power: 17	i think most slotted/Drilled Discs are good for fast heat removal,won't increase the brake power....for better brake power,you need to upgrade the brake calipers & hoses...

06-28-2015, 11:38 AM	#9 (permalink)
wanker Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: San Diego Posts: 443 Drives: 2011 370Z S/T A7 Rep Power: 2901	Bed those brakes. TreeSemdyZee likes this.

06-28-2015, 12:38 PM	#11 (permalink)
mdxj Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: OKC Posts: 290 Drives: 09 Nismo, 98 Jeep XJ Rep Power: 14	Good description on why to bed in new pads and how. Don't touch your wheels after you do it either. A friend learned that lesson the hard way. Stock Brake System Bed-in __________________ '09 370 base - RIP '09 370 Nismo - New track car

06-28-2015, 02:45 PM	#14 (permalink)
jsutton2 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Austin Posts: 239 Drives: 2010 370Z Sport Rep Power: 11	If I have already messed up, is it as simple as getting all new break pads or will the rotors need turned also? __________________ 2010 Brilliant Silver 370z Sport - 08/01/2014 - And so it begins...

06-28-2015, 02:46 PM	#15 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,834 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Noop, they are not messed up. Just need to get the proper bed in process and follow it. Since you have racing pads, don't expect them to stop so great when cold. That is normal. They just need heat in them. Read the link in post 11. It will give you an idea. It appears you need to do some hard stops from 70mph or so to around 25mph. You'll know when they are bedded in. The brakes will come to you, so to speak. jsutton2 likes this. Last edited by Spooler; 06-28-2015 at 02:48 PM.

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