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Any cons of lowering springs?

Originally Posted by osbornsm Those tires are wearing fine !! Turn faster, that'll fix your wear issue That's my plan, send them off in style before I get the arms

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Old 06-04-2015, 09:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by osbornsm View Post
Those tires are wearing fine !!

Turn faster, that'll fix your wear issue
That's my plan, send them off in style before I get the arms and new tires


Does everyone have front+rear arms? I only plan to get the rear, the fronts were able to align to spec.
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Old 06-05-2015, 12:07 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Knio View Post
That's my plan, send them off in style before I get the arms and new tires


Does everyone have front+rear arms? I only plan to get the rear, the fronts were able to align to spec.
Im wondering too. Am i able to get away with just the rear arms and bolts?
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Old 06-05-2015, 12:16 AM   #18 (permalink)
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It depends, some are able to get the front within oem specs, some can't. Each car will have a diferent result. My guess is it's dependent on how much experienced your alignment guy has working on our platform. You just gotta get it on the alignment rack to find out. For daily driving you should be okay with just rear camber arms and bolts.
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Old 06-05-2015, 12:37 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I found my alignment sheet.

The fronts are a little out of spec, but I'm not having any tire wear problems with them.

Rear toe is fine, so I'm just going to do the arms and no toe bolts.

The Eibach springs arn't quit as low as the swifts, so you might need more with swift?

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Old 06-05-2015, 11:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I found my alignment sheet.

The fronts are a little out of spec, but I'm not having any tire wear problems with them.

Rear toe is fine, so I'm just going to do the arms and no toe bolts.

The Eibach springs arn't quit as low as the swifts, so you might need more with swift?

Was this done at a shop or dealer?
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Old 06-06-2015, 03:13 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Was this done at a shop or dealer?
Z Car Garage in San Jose, CA
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:46 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I run 305's and they were able to get it close enough that they didn't feel the additional cost of the toe bolts installation was worth it, you will need the arm's though.
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Old 06-06-2015, 11:22 PM   #23 (permalink)
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With swifts I would at the least spend a little extra and get the SPL rear camber arms. My front alignment came just close into spec so I didn't buy any extra parts for the front.
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Old 06-06-2015, 11:53 PM   #24 (permalink)
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With many thanks to dragonbreath, we (he) installed rear camber arms (SPL), toe bolts, and lock-outs today. We'll finish up the front springs tomorrow morning and I'll get an initial alignment tomorrow afternoon. I'll post results and plan on getting an alignment a week from now, after the springs settle.

Fingers crossed that the front end is in spec.
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:55 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Is the spl wrench needed for spl camber arms? Or is that just an extra tool that makes it easier to adjust but not 100% required
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Old 06-07-2015, 02:29 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Zero dark View Post
Is the spl wrench needed for spl camber arms? Or is that just an extra tool that makes it easier to adjust but not 100% required
I think it just makes it easier for the mechanic to perform adjustments for the alignment process, as well as keep them from scratching or rounding off the pieces that turn.
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Old 06-07-2015, 04:33 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Other than the well known allignment issues, There are a lot of cons for lowering springs. Spring rate, ride height, and damping are all interrelated. To build a proper suspension, you first decide on bump travel. That determines your spring rate, and that determines your damping.

So with lowering springs only you have a dilemma. You can either go for stiffer springs that support the diminished bump travel (and properly stiff springs will have really high spring rates to go from bump travel of like 5 to 3 inches) which will the be woefully underdamped and cause the car to feel like crap.

Or you can go the route most aftermarket springs go for and just have similar spring rates, which won't be enough spring for the lowered bump travel. This causes the suspension to constantly bottom out, killing the shocks and doing damage to your frame.

In addition, lowering the car changes the suspension geometry and the roll center. It usually puts the roll center underground which is suck.

All in all, why do you want to lower your car? Looks? Performance? Lowering for performance isn't straight forward. You want matched damping for your spring rates. There are calculators online to figure out what spring rate you want to run for a given bump travel. Then after that you should probably get roll angle adjusters, and then probably weaker anti roll bars.
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Old 06-07-2015, 06:52 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero dark View Post
Is the spl wrench needed for spl camber arms? Or is that just an extra tool that makes it easier to adjust but not 100% required
It's just another thing to get you to buy while you're there getting the rest of the SPL stuff. Not necessary at all. The camber adjuster is in the middle of the arm where there's nothing in the way of it. The jam nut is just as accessible and the 'sleeve' on the other end uses a 3/16 allen key.
Don't bother and save your money. Let the alignment guy deal with it.

104
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:24 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I've dropped my Z on swifts, excellent ride btw! However without a camber kit, the rears wear slightly on the inside on mine, nothing too crazy but still not perfect. The fronts on mine were brought back to factory camber spec however. I would definitely suggest a rear camber kit for peace of mind.
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Old 06-08-2015, 11:35 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Keep calling shops and they are all about $600 for the install of rear arms and springs and alignment
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