Any cons of lowering springs?

evil370z

thats crazy, my shop installed my swifts and wheel spacers on sat, I'm getting wheel alignment and spl rear camber parts put in on friday. this way the springs can settle in nicely.

total paid $350 including everything, spacers, swifts, alignment, rear camber install.

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Memphis370Z

Got everything finished up (including the installation of a Stillen oil cooler) and got an initial alignment. Looks, drives, and feels great! Wish I had done this sooner.

Zero dark

Alignment before springs settle? Does it matter if you get it done after install or a week after install

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MD Art Pipes, MD Shockwave exhaust, AAM Intakes, Stillen Crank Pulley, Z1 25 Row Setrab, Whiteline Diff Bushings, 20mm H&R spacers, BC-BR Coils, GT-R push button, 3M, Tommy Kaira Knob, Takata Drift III, Custom Harness Bar, Zwork Headlights, EVO-R, Uprev

Memphis370Z

That was just an initial alignment. I'll go for another in a week, or so, after the springs settle.


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Zbrah

Nice!

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Memphis370Z

Thanks, Zbrah! Hope to post some tomorrow.

Zbrah

Sweet! Can you snap a few shots of your toe bolts and lockouts. I've been looking for installed photos of the lockouts but seem no one has posted any

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Memphis370Z

Not sure if I can slide underneath any more, now that it's lowered, but I'll do my best.

Zipper 104

They basically look no different than what's in there now. The stock toe bolts are essentially identical and the lock outs are just plain bolts with washers and nuts. The stock bolts in where the lock outs go are eccentric just like the toe bolts, so they look like the washers are 'off center'. The only reason to have pictures is to see where they go, if you don't already know.
The lock outs go on the inboard end of the camber arms. The toe bolts go on the inboard end of the spring bucket....in the same location as the stockers.

I'll take pics of mine this weekend of you're determined to see some. I'll be putting my spacers on.

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Zbrah

Yep, I need pics to confirm where the lockouts are being installed. Also, if you don't mind showing the drill bit you used to elongate the camber holes too. I'm not too mechanical so pictures would help a ton here. Thanks!

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kenchan

would look something like this.. this is a dremel 115. they have different shapes and sizes.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg

Zbrah

Thanks Ken. But I remember one of Zipper's post where said he ended up using a different dremel bit because the 115s wasn't tough enough to grind off the metal. Something about Nissan beefing up the steel in that area of the suspension on the later model Z's.

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kenchan

yah, id get a handful of those for sure.

Zipper 104

I will take pics for you. Saturday at the latest.
As for the bits i used, I destroyed both of them and discarded what little was left. I used a Dremel Chain saw sharpening bit. There were two in the pack for about $11. The alternative, and the real way to go was an $19 high speed cutter. I bought both packs so I had the cutter if the CSS bits didn't work. When the CSS bits worked I just returned the HSC bit unopened. I would suggest the HSC bit. I'm not sure what the number was. Whatever you get needs to be able to hack steel, so the #115 and #117 bits are NO GO. I destroyed a 115 or 117 (I forget which one) on the first hole, and still didn't get it completed.
I'll do a search and see if I can find the HSC and post a link.


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Zipper 104

Yup, but don't get a 115. They will just fall apart on steel. The cutter you need will have to hack steel, but it will look almost identical to the one Kenchan posted.

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